Gracie’s Cafe | The Beachside Resident

T. Bennison

Article Category: Restaurant Review Leave a Comment

If you have trouble finding Gracie’s Café, blame Georges-Eugène Haussmann.

I know it’s a stretch, and rather unfair of me to attack a man who’s been dead for 118 years, but I hold the controversial urban planner wholly responsible for obscuring one of downtown Melbourne’s best eateries.

Under Napoleon III, Haussmann orchestrated the massive renovation of Paris that began in 1852 and continued in spurts for several years after his termination from the post in 1870. Called “The Haussmann Renovations,” or the “Haussmannization of Paris,” the colossal project saw the leveling of labyrinthine districts and tangled warrens of narrow streets and alleyways that had survived since the Middle Ages. As pleasing as Haussmann’s broad avenues and tree-lined boulevards were to aristocrats out for their daily promenades, they also happened to come in handy for controlling crowds of pesky, rioting peasants.

While the idea behind the undertaking — to make the city more sanitary and picturesque — was well-intentioned, it changed the way Parisians had meandered for centuries, effectively corralling them away from their concealed haunts and into main arteries of traffic and commerce. The populace has since adapted by revitalizing forgotten side streets and hidden neighborhoods that survived Haussmann’s project, leaving the boulevards for hordes of tourists and less imaginative citizens.

Humans are instinctive wanderers and curious explorers, which is why the “Main Street” phenomenon, however efficient, is bound in the end to fail. As more and more of these small downtowns start popping back up, the more people are inured to their linear logic, and veering off the beaten path is as unthinkable as parking four blocks away from all the action. Sure, you might peek down the Le Galleria for the Gracie’s Café sign, but if you don’t see it right away, then it mustn’t exist.

Le Galleria, the very kind of shopping arcade that arose, ironically, out of the scourge of Haussmania, hides a lot of surprises, not the least of which is T.J. and Kelly Mignona’s Gracie’s, an unassuming little café that’s one of New Haven Avenue’s best kept secrets. The open-air corridor that leads you there is like something you’d find in a casbah, and Gracie’s, with its outdoor tables set amid palms and sunlight, stands like a lush oasis at at the arcade’s center, a mere ten steps from the bustling avenue.

Even as you approach the facade of Gracie’s, you can’t help feeling that you’ve found someplace special. Bright, airy and colorful, this comfy eatery is a reflection of the owners’ laid-back personalities, and by extension, those of their daughters. Readers may know T.J. and Kelly Mignona from the 8 years they ran the equally inviting Breakfast at Lily’s in Satellite Beach, which was named after their eldest daughter. After serving what they reckon to be 298,600 meals during their tenure there, the Mignonas decided to try something more intimate and relaxed, and Gracie’s (named in honor of their youngest) is the wonderful result.

As we sat down to sample some of T.J.’c creations just shy of lunchtime, loyal customers began filing in with the air of people who’ve been looking forward to this moment since they first tumbled out of bed. We also detected slight looks of surprise that these new faces had stumbled upon their treasured haven. Classics from the ’60s played through the stereo, in keeping with the Hawaiian/surf-themed decor, eclectic, but never jarring artwork, and the vintage Coca Cola cooler behind the small bar counter. While greeting new arrivals with disarming cheer, our server Carla brought us generous plates of delicious breakfast — two eggs, chunky home fries, four strips of bacon, and a fluffy biscuit in my case, and for my friend, one of T.J.’s signature breakfast dishes: excellent eggs benedict with a slice of hash brown casserole, which is reason enough to drop in.

We were fortunate enough to try several other items before we left — all of which were value enough for their size, even more so for their incredible flavor. There was a huge slice of fresh vegetable quiche, a grilled Philly panini, and a roast beef and grilled zucchini sandwich with bleu cheese crumbles, onions and horseradish sauce. Other lunch items include several types of quesadillas (veggie, mahi, chicken, three cheese, shrimp, and N.Y. strip — a big favorite — served with chips and salsa), black-bean fajita burritos (served with a choice of the same aforementioned fillings and pico de gallo), and those delicious grilled paninis. Choose from the Reuben, hot pastrami, BLT, onion steak, or the tuna melt. There’s a half-panini and soup option as well. We recommend trying that with a bowl of T.J.’s lobster bisque.

Deli sandwiches are covered with a chicken eggplant mozzarella, a Cajun roast beef, a chicken salad, a deluxe Italian (with salami, ham, Swiss, glazed onions, sun-dried tomatoes and Italian seasoning), and many others, all reasonably priced. Gracie’s large salads are also enticing: spinach or caesar topped with your choice of grilled mahi or chicken, and a chicken bacon ranch salad. Baskets served with french fries include fried cod or three mahi tacos served with chips and salsa.

While Gracie’s is also known for its great burgers, especially its Hawaiian and Big Kahuna (glazed onions, spinach, tomatoes, cheddar and chipotle ketchup), breakfast has proven to exert an even stronger pull. There’s the two-egg combo with a variety of side options, the beloved eggs benedict, and huge, pan-cooked omelets, which can be filled with a choice of all the traditional ingredients, as well as some intriguing surprises like olives, feta, broccoli, asparagus, avocado, jalapenos, shrimp and mahi. Other items: quiche with fresh fruit and muffin, biscuits and gravy, pancakes, French toast, and cinnamon raisin French toast (topped with strawberries, blueberries, bananas, pecans or walnuts).

Everything at Gracie’s is made to order and prepared with special care, features that raise its food far above the level you’d expect from a humble little cafe hiding out in an overlooked side street. Or maybe what you would in fact expect from a place in that location. What the Mignonas have done is taken a potential obstacle and turned it into their greatest asset: effortless charm and generous reward for wandering away from the herd.

After all, isn’t that how all the best places are always found?

Gracie’s Café is located at 820 E. New Haven Ave. in downtown Melbourne, across from Melbourne Civic Theatre in Le Galleria arcade. They’re open Monday through Saturday from 8 a.m. to 3 p.m. and from 8 a.m. to 2 p.m. for their “Reggae Sundays” which are accompanied by island tunes. They’re also open late for dinner during downtown Melbourne’s frequent Friday Fests. Expect daily specials, coffee concoctions made with Douwe Egberts coffee, and two-for-one beers all day. Featured draught beers include Amber Bock, Miller Lite, and Blue Moon, and wine lovers can choose from merlot, chardonnay, or white zinfandel. Call 956-8414 for more information or to call in an order ahead for pickup.

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