Egri Bikavér – Bull’s Blood | The Beachside Resident

By: James Jack

Article Category: Wine Life Leave a Comment

While not considered one of the world’s more refined wines, Egri Bikavér is one of Hungary’s most famous exports. Seasoned oenophiles are likely to invoke the nectary Tokaj wines as more deserving of that distinction, but it’s hard to compete with a wine, however rustic, that boasts such a romantic, evocative name.

Translated as “Bull’s Blood of Eger,” (a wine growing region of Northern Hungary), Egri Bikavér is reputed to have earned its name from a legend that dates back to the 16th-century invasion of Europe by Ottoman ruler Suleiman the Magnificent. During the Siege of Eger castle by the Turks, the ragtag group of Hungarian soldiers defending the edifice were said to have been furnished with lavish feasts at which gallons of red wine were consumed. Unable to explain the resilience and tenacity with which the comparatively small band of men were able to stave off the siege, the Turks murmured rumors about the Hungarians’ wine being mixed with bull’s blood. Eventually, the Turks gave up, and the victory at Eger was credited with dramatically reducing the threat of Ottoman expansion into northern and western Europe.

Though it’s likelier that the name was coined by Hungarian nationalist poet János Garay in the mid-1800s for inclusion in one of his lyrical odes to the mighty Magyar race, Egri Bikavér still appeals to drinkers for the mystique of magical power it suggests. It’s comprised of a blend of grapes that has varied over the years, although many consider its foundation to be laid with bitter Kadarka grapes, one of the more ancient varieties of the Eger region. Another legend has it that Kardaka grapes arrived with the Turks during their invasion, brought either by the Turks themselves or by the Serbs they displaced.

Because Kardaka is a difficult grape to vinify, it’s been increasingly replaced by the German Blaufränkisch, known locally as Kékfrankos. According to official standards, Egri Bikavér must contain at least three of 11 grapes: Kardaka, Kékfrankos, and Austrian hybrids Blauburger and Zweigelt among them. Under Turkish occupation, the Hungarians’ traditional white grapes were replaced by Kadarka and its relatives. Hungary did not escape the effects of the phylloxera epidemic in 1882 which wiped out thousands of vineyards, after which Blaufränkisch and small amounts of Bordeaux varieties were introduced, and the different varieties were often grown together in the vineyard and processed together.

Under Communism, Kadarka was largely replaced by the Bordeaux varieties and the easy-to-grow Zweigelt. This along with the industrialization of production saw Egri Bikavér become a much lighter, simpler wine during the ’70s and ’80s. Since the fall of Communism, however, much Kadarka has been planted, and since the mid-’90s there’s been a return to a more traditional, much darker style of wine. In order to eliminate some quality problems, stricter regulation was introduced in 1997 leading to the formation of Hungary’s first Appellation Control group which now enacts the rules specifying Bull’s Blood ingredients.

In 2004, Egri Bikavér Superior was introduced. In this case, at least 4 out of the 11 recommended varieties must be used and a lower yield must be applied. Despite considerable investment in vineyards and wineries, Egri Bikavér is still quite variable. The difference in quality between good vintages and cheap mass-market versions can be immense, but know that high-quality Egri Bikavér requires two to three years of oak aging, and is best enjoyed with game, beef, or spicy food — especially Indian curries and Hungarian dishes like Gulyás (goulash) or Paprikás.