Doubles Beachside

By: Tobin Bennison

Article Category: Restaurant Review

In one of the most referenced, praised, and unread books in the world of literature, Marcel Proust’s “Remembrance of Things Past,” it’s the chance bite of a madeleine, a small, scallop-shaped cake, that spurs the author on a 7-volume rediscovery of his youth.

The episode proved so resonant that “a madeleine” has since become synonymous with any sensory agent that seems to magically evoke a flood of memories. I myself have several madeleines — the smell of geraniums, old Peter Sellers films, and Captain Crunch cereal among them — yet their real beauty lies not in the memories they awaken, but in their inherent latency. For each one you discover, there’s another that remains concealed, just waiting for some prosaic moment to rear its fantastic head.

Take the “Ace” I first bit into a few years back at Doubles Beachside in Indian Harbour Beach. Immediately upon tasting the heavenly combination of ham, capicola, salami, provolone and peppers laced with oil and vinegar, I was transported back to Hobbit Hoagies, a place I’d almost completely forgotten. We first stopped at Hobbit Hoagies during a childhood visit to my aunt and uncle’s in Tallahassee, steered in by the name and the sight of Bilbo Baggins brandishing his dagger in one hand and a plump sandwich in the other. It became tradition, even obligation, to eat our first meal there on every subsequent trip.

Later hoagies never quite replicated the subtlety of those flavors; the texture of their bread either too spongy or dry, and the atmosphere where you purchased them never as cozy. As time went on, I forgot about Hobbit Hoagies and even hoagies in general, having given them up as pale imitators of the ones I held so close to my heart. That is, until I tried Doubles’ versions. Suddenly I was 11 again (though considerably less spotty), free from care and at one with delicious discovery. It was a truly remarkable moment, but not nearly as remarkable as the one that was about to unfold.

You can imagine my shock when, during our interview for this feature, Doubles Beachside owner Ray Featherhoff revealed that he worked at the very same Hobbit Hoagies my family used to frequent — and may have may even served us during that era. This was a kind of madeleine within a madeleine, then; a new facet within a phenomenon wrapped up in a marvel. It was then that I began to realize that everyone who enjoys Doubles’ food might well be sharing that same experience of recovered memory. And surely new madeleines were being engendered in the many children there that day, perhaps to be forgotten as the years rolled on, then rediscovered in adulthood. The thought isn’t much of a stretch, because Featherhoff has built Doubles around the food he himself grew up on, and the effect seems to have rubbed off on all who count it as their home away from home.

Featherhoff got his start in the business working at the famous Peg Leg’s during high school, and later at Hobbit Hoagies while attending FSU. After graduation, his Hobbit co-worker and roommate enlisted Featherhoff to help him out with MASH Hoagies. After going their separate ways 27 years ago, Featherhoff opened the original Doubles across the street from its current location in front of the Lexington Hotel on South Patrick. At that original spot, Doubles quickly filled a gaping void for locals in search of quick, healthy sustenance, something it continues to do today. Featherhoff and his friendly staff have been here close to four years now, and all enjoy the enlarged 12,00 square-foot building, which offers space for two bars — a media-equipped sports bar and a more laid-back tiki bar that also sees live music performances every night of the week — and two dining areas, one of which includes a huge banquet room where many local teams gather after games and alumni from all over the county hold class reunions.

If there ever were a true, community-minded and family-friendly restaurant in the area, its Doubles. Enticed by a variety of sandwiches, wraps, wings and salads, people love the simplicity of its menu and the swiftness with which each healthy, fresh-tasting order is prepared. Hoagies are what Doubles is known for, but available styles, while adaptable according to taste, are kept to a refreshingly efficient minimum. Regulars count the Ace as a favorite, but each of the others — all made on a choice of white or whole wheat roll with mayonnaise; hot or sweet peppers; lettuce; tomatoes; pickles and onions — has its strong supporters. Any hoagie can be customized and ordered in a half-size, and particular affection is reserved for the generous veggie and new chicken salad hoagies.

Wings (served mild, medium or hot with optional teriyaki garlic sauce) are sold here by the boatload, as are wraps, Doubles’ famous racquet fries and nachos, daily-made soups and chili, and a selection of hot, grilled sandwiches, including burgers, meatball subs and a chicken cheesesteak, served with mayo, marinara sauce, and a tangle of grilled mushrooms, peppers and onions. Doubles also fills a niche for those in search of fresh, hearty salads available in small or large portions. I myself can’t count how many times I’ve been in search of one that doesn’t involve a lengthy wait. Here at Doubles, I’ve found exactly the kind of salad options I’ve been craving. Featuring a wide choice of homemade dressings (ranch, bleu cheese, fat free Italian, lite ranch, Greek and balsamic vinaigrettes), styles range from a generous garden, a Greek, Casear, and the excellent Havana: red cabbage; warm rice; cheddar; black beans and salsa; and sour cream and tortilla chips, with the option of adding jalapeño peppers and guacamole. What’s more, any salad can be topped with chicken or mahi.

Children are catered to with a selection of “mini-meals,” which include fries and a drink, and smoothies and frozen yogurt keep diners lingering well past their planned departure times. A selection of coffee drinks and desserts like fresh cheesecakes and pies have recently been added to the menu, but as we went to print, no authentic madeleines had joined the roster.

No matter, though. Everything at Doubles Beachside is guaranteed to produce that same magical madeleine effect.

Doubles Beachside is located at 1896 S. Patrick Dr. in Indian Harbour Beach. They serve food from 10:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday through Saturday, and Sundays from 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. Throughout the week, their sports bar is open from 10:30 a.m. till ?, and their outdoor tiki bar is open everyday from 5 p.m. till ? Each day sees a low-priced daily special that comes with tasty racquet fries and a drink — Mondays: chicken tenders; Tuesday: cheeseburgers; Wednesdays: chicken or beef cheesesteaks; Thursdays: half-Ace hoagies; Fridays: half-tuna hoagies; Saturday: a two-hot dog special, and on Sundays you can enjoy $1 off any of their smoothies. Contact them to either host your large event in their large banquet room or to cater your next large gathering. They also make special 3-foot hoagies which serve 22 people, as well as 6-foot varieties, which serve 45. Happy Hour is celebrated in both their full-liquor tiki and sports bars (the sports bar features 14 televisions on which to watch all your favorite games) every day from 5 p.m. to 7 p.m. Doubles also hosts live music every night. Call them at 773-5341 to find out who’s playing and to place orders in ahead. Please allow 48 hours notice for giant party hoagie orders. Doubles Beachside can be found online at: www.doublesbeachside.com

View Larger Map