Schaffhausen, Switzerland | The Beachside Resident

Words and photos by L. Paul Mann

Article Category: Get Out Of Town Leave a Comment

Affluent international travelers have made Switzerland a top vacation destination for centuries. Jet setters fly in to some of the most exclusive ski resorts in the world — places like St. Moritz, Zermatt and Gstaad — and summer music fans swarm to the many music festivals, among them, the renowned Montreux Jazz Festival, the largest of its kind in the world. International backpackers flock to the Swiss Alps to hike in the serene countryside in picture postcard-perfect mountain villages like Murren and Prés d’Orvin. Wealthy shoppers swoop into Zürich and Bern to purchase some of the finest merchandise available on the planet.

But there are far more peaceful and less costly destinations in this squeaky clean and history-laden little country. Although there are three distinct regions in Switzerland, (French, Italian, and German), all with their own language and unique hybrid culture, the entire country could fit inside the Grand Canyon. The endless variety of culture and customs in this tiny little landlocked nation are what make it so unique.

The northern German region is dominated by Zürich, a fascinating lakefront city, its financial institutions fat from the wealth of centuries of international investors. Opulent architecture, from medieval to modern, stretches across the city, and fabulous shops, restaurants, and cultural venues abound. If you have deep pockets, it’s a magnificent place to part with your money. But less than an hour train ride away, you’ll find the sleepy little commuter town many of Zürich’s workers return home to after work.

Schaffhausen, on the banks of the Rhine, looks as if it were plucked straight out of a fairy tale. This little gem lies on the German border, surrounded on three sides by its larger neighbor. In fact, it’s so intertwined with Germany and her culture that it was one of the only Swiss towns mistakenly bombed by allied aircraft during World War II.

The town dates back to at least 1045, when it minted its own coins. The Allerheiligen, or All Saints’ monastery, was built in 1050, an impressive structure visible to this day from across town. The medieval building houses a unique art collection, spanning a millineum of local history. Rare manuscripts can be studied in the cloister complex of the building. The poet Schiller was believed to have been inspired to write his masterful poem “Lied von der Glocke” by the massive bell tower at the top of the monastery. But the skyline is dominated by the view of castle Munot, built in 1564. This center of the old town is an architectural treasure and is open to the public for a stroll to the top of the parapets to gaze over the cityscape. On occasion, concerts are held in the old courtyard of the castle; I was lucky enough to catch Swiss music sensation Andreas Vollenweider playing there one summer evening. One of the first of the so-called “New Age” musicians, the accomplished harpist quickly transcended the need for alternative record sales when his albums simultaneously broke onto Billboard’s pop, jazz, and classical charts in 1986. Local villagers, from toddlers to centenarians, hiked up to the top of the castle for the show.

In Switzerland, hiking is a national obsession, second only perhaps to soccer. It seems as if everyone plays soccer on the weekends, from junior to semi-pro leaguers, especially during the summer when Schaffhausen really comes to life. After Volksmarching (a kind of non-competitive group-walking sport akin to hiking), hiking itself and soccer, the next most popular summer activity is going to the riverside. The banks of the Rhine offer a classic spot for a picnic, sunbathing, or weekend bonfires. The swift current of the Rhine provides clean water for an impromptu safe swim — and the Swiss also love their bathing.

Old-fashioned wooden boats are rowed the same out here as they have been for centuries. More modern motor boats and large Rhine Cruise boats offer a swifter trip about an hour up the river to another fairytale-like town, Stein am Rhein, which opens onto beautiful lake Constance. The town is another medieval marvel that has also been largely pedestrianized. Going downstream is a much shorter trip, however, first passing by the public pools, an fully-equipped enclosure on the riverside. Shortly after that, the river is blocked for a very good reason. As you reach Neuhausen, Schaffhausen’s, next-door sister city, the Rhine drops off in central Europe’s largest waterfall.

The Rheinfall is a popular tourist attraction that draws over 3 million visitors a year, but most are simply day travelers and the area never gets overly crowded, with the exception of August 1st, Swiss National Day, when hordes of spectators swarm the area for a spectacular fireworks show over the glistening falls.

Although Schaffhausen holds its annual city festival in July, the city is an interesting destination anytime of year — a place to see real Swiss German culture in its purest form. Movies at the small cinema, very unlike cinemas in the international city of Zürich, are dubbed in German or Swiss-German, not English. The Swiss Germans love the little inside joke that most German speaking people can’t understand their dialect, and they have a bit of a secret sarcastic language they often employ.

Large markets and bakeries abound in Schaffhausen, and the upstairs cafeterias offer some of the most affordable meals available in all of Switzerland. But in keeping with Swiss custom, most commerce shuts down from Friday night to late Monday morning. You can see shoppers rushing about after work on Friday, trying to do their last-minute weekend shopping.

Schaffhausen, like most Swiss towns, has impeccably clean and well-maintained streets. It’s hard to believe much of the architecture dates back many centuries. As you cruise through the old town, you’ll notice more than 170 old bay windows, each bearing a unique form and style. The historic dwellings usually have their date of origin ornately displayed over the doorways. With the absence of cars in most of the downtown area, visiting Americans will feel more like they’re visiting Disney World than a fully functioning town.

Switzerland is also famous for its clean and precise rail system, which works with mathematical perfection. Expensive fares can be offset by a myriad of existing regional, national, and international rail passes. The 49-minute ride from Schaffhaussen to Zürich is a scenic treat all in it’s own. The effecient system can connect you to nearly every nook and cranny of the small, charming country with a gigantic cultural, historic and scenic heritage.

For more information, visit –

Schaffhausen Tourism: www.schaffhauserland.ch
Live Webcam and Weather at Neuhausen am Rheinfall: www.webcamgalore.com/EN/webcam/Switzerland/Neuhausen-am-Rheinfall
Stein am Rhein: www.myswitzerland.com
Swiss Rail Pass: www.swisspasses.com