JACK BAKER’S LOBSTER SHANTY

Being a contrarian has its undeniable drawbacks, but when it comes to dining, the attitude can open up new worlds of possibility.

I’m glad, for instance, that I never heeded the advice of friends to avoid restaurants like the Cliff House and Alioto’s when I lived in San Francisco in the late ’90s. “They’re just for out-of-towners,” they said. “Locals know better than to bother.”

When I finally did visit those places, it was immediately clear that the naysayers hadn’t even given them a chance. I found the food to be excellent and reasonably priced and the waterfront views spectacular. I managed to convert a few natives before I left, and vowed to take the same approach wherever I moved or traveled to thereafter. It’s a practice that’s kept me in good stead ever since, and one that helped me discover the charms of Jack Baker’s Lobster Shanty, a place that’s given similarly short shrift by locals here in Cocoa Beach.

The Shanty’s founder, New Jerseyan and avid fisherman Jack Baker, took up cooking while working at the Biltmore Hotel in Palm Beach. After marrying his Floridian wife and relocating to Point Pleasant Beach, NJ, Baker opened a tiny, four-top restaurant on the side porch of the family home. Cooking their daily lobster catch in a washing machine that had been converted into a gas-fired boiler, Baker and his father were soon swarmed by people loved their flair with seafood. Trading in the washer for a bathtub-cum-cooker, the Bakers expanded their business and built the first of many Lobster Shanties near the Baker residence.

There are two Lobster Shanties in Vero Beach and six in New Jersey, but the one here in Cocoa Beach is probably the best situated. Located on the Banana River since 1982, the Cocoa Beach Lobster Shanty is one of the few riverfront eateries in the area, and as such offers breathtaking sunset views.

Many locals have fond memories of eating here in their youth, usually for Mother’s Day or wedding anniversaries, but the Lobster Shanty isn’t just for special occasions. They serve a wealth of daily specials, and as tasty as their live Maine lobsters are, their many “turf” and pasta dishes are definitely worth trying. The fact is that the Lobster Shanty offers some of the best values on the beach.

Their popular combination platters are a good example of the kind of bargain you can expect. There are six to choose from, but a favorite is the “Side Splitter,” which comes with shrimp, haddock, a crab cake, scallops, and clam strips. For over a pound of fresh seafood, it’s a great deal.

Other dishes are just as generously portioned, from their  “Triple Treat” (salmon, grouper, and mahi fillets that can be broiled, blackened, or grilled) to their “smothered” lobsters, which get topped with sauteed shrimp, scallops, and mussels and a creamy garlic sauce. What’s more, they’re one of the few places around that can get hold of rock shrimp year-round.

Another favorite, the New England-style baked haddock, shows that this old institution is also very forward thinking. Baked in a Parmesan and bacon crust with a sun-dried tomato cream sauce, it’s one of many inventive dishes Chef Glen Dunham has introduced. There are coconut shrimp served with mango-jalapeno jelly, cashew-crusted tilapia with a coconut rum sauce, and a tasty crab and spinach dip.

However, the real surprises here are their steaks, an apricot-brandy chicken, and their excellent baby back ribs. There’s something here for everyone — even the pickiest eaters will find something to love — and kids have their own menu to peruse.

The Lobster Shanty is very family-friendly; kids will enjoy feeding the koi out front or the catfish from their spacious, open-air deck. And the weather couldn’t be more perfect for eating outside at the Shanty. While we were there, as the sun began its brilliant descent, we saw a pod of dolphin bounding southward. It’s at times like that, I reflected, that being a contrarian certainly has its benefits.

The Lobster Shanty is located at 2200 S. Orlando Ave. in Cocoa Beach. They open daily at 11:30 a.m. and offer lunch specials and a new early dinner menu. On it, you’ll find 14 dishes to choose from, all of which are served with one side, a choice of New England or Manhattan chowder or salad, coffee, tea, or milk, and dessert — all at a very reasonable price. Early dinners are served Monday through Friday from 3 p.m. to 6 p.m.; Saturdays and Sundays from 11:30 a.m. to 6 p.m. Lunch menu is available Monday through Saturday from 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. The spacious Lobster Shanty is also a great place to host large gatherings, banquets, and reunions. Call them at 783-1350. To view their full menu, log on to: www.cocoabeachlobstershanty.com

Silvestro’s

By Tobin Bennison
Photos by Rich Sullivan 

Since taking over last September, the new owners of Silvestro’s have had their work cut out for them.

There’s no delicate way of putting it: prior to their arrival, the restaurant was fraught with problems — exorbitant prices, imperious staff, and inconsistent food among them. But one of the biggest difficulties they’ve faced is less tangible: shedding Silvestro’s of its image as an exclusive aerie of the well-heeled. They’ve made impressive progress thus far, and their efforts to draw a broader-based clientele — and lure errant regulars back to the fold — continue.

It’s a daunting task, but the new team — comprised of Managing Partner Alex Koorbanoff, Manager John Larkin, and Executive Chef Brad Kennett — is more than up for the challenge. A small group of local investors, made up of concerned regulars, enlisted the experienced trio to turn Silvestro’s into a more efficient, customer-friendly eatery. Thankfully, the changes they’ve implemented haven’t affected its original reputation as one of the fine dining jewels of the Space Coast.

“We want to provide the best quality food at the lowest possible prices,” Koorbanoff says. Trimming the once voluminous menu down to it essentials was one of the first steps on the path toward that goal. They’ve shed a lot of the Italian-centric dishes to make room for more seasonal, Mediterranean-influenced items, and the result, surprisingly, is something much closer to the true roots of Italian cuisine. The wine selection has been similarly streamlined to accommodate smaller boutique wines and bottles from countries other than just Italy. As a bonus, the majority of them are available by the glass, and smaller batches are often obtained and offered as specials.

Chef Kennett uses only the freshest ingredients, and works what’s available into a menu that’s informed, as in Europe, by the seasons. All pastas — from the fettucine and tagliatelle to the tortelloni and ravioli — are made by hand, from scratch, daily. Kennett also makes his own gelato daily, as well as the bread and desserts. Imagination plays a strong part his cooking as well, and you’re just as likely to find plantains or lemongrass-infused dishes as you are to see traditional things like chicken Parmigiana, gnocchi, and spaghetti and meatballs.

Silvestro’s also prides itself on its excellent steaks and fresh seafood, which finds its way into zuppa di pesce, lobster ravioli, and their Land & Sea Carpaccio. Pescatarians will find much to love here, as will vegetarians. Whatever your taste, you’re sure to find something that will intrigue and astound you.

“We always have a new and interesting twist on the menu,” says Larkin. “But if you’re not feeling adventurous, you can always count on that classic you’d find in Grandma’s kitchen. We offer the best of both worlds here. You could eat a special a day here for a year, and never get the same thing twice. But we’re also more than happy to recreate something a customer enjoyed on a previous visit.”

This new approach — a mixture of bold innovation and adherence to tradition — has won Silvestro’s the approval of none other than the Chaîne des Rôtisseurs, a society of highly discerning gastronomes established in France over half a century ago. A regional branch of the group chose Silvestro’s to host a seven-course dinner this past November, and the event was an incredible success. They also host monthly themed wine dinners, which feature specially prepared dishes to compliment a unique selection of wines.

Silvestro’s has also made efforts to reach out to the community, and a variety of local groups and charities hold regular meetings in the adjacent banquet room. Once a month, this room is transformed into a dance space, another well-received change that often begins with tango and foxtrot before giving way to disco by closing time. Thursdays, Fridays, and Sundays host live piano accompaniment, and Wednesdays and Saturdays see performances by guitarist/vocalist Jose Lebron.

Locals and visitors have been won over by all these improvements, and the majority of lapsed Silvestro’s believers have been reconverted. “It’s great reconnecting with a lot of people who, for whatever reason, took us off their radar,” says Koorbanoff.

“As a manager,” Larkin explains, “it’s not the gushing compliments I seek out; I want the curmudgeon. It’s about listening to the bad as well as the good. We’re active in the conversation and are happy to hear about other ways we can improve. The onus is upon us to make our customers happy.”

Silvestro’s is located 2039 N. Atlantic Ave. (in Banana River Square) in Cocoa Beach. They’re open for lunch Monday through Friday from 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m., and dinner from 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday through Thursday and from 5 p.m. to 11 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays. Happy Hour at their bar is held every night from 5 to 6:30 p.m. The popular instructor-led dance nights have been put on hiatus for the month of December, as have their wine dinners, but both will resume in January 2012. This Christmas Eve sees the arrival of a special Italian-style seafood menu, inspired by that country’s Christmas traditions, and New Year’s Eve will center around a special Surf, Turf & Champagne menu and fresh lobster specials. Check Silvestro’s website — www.silvestros.com for more details. Silvestro’s is also renowned for their catering and banquet-hosting skills. Give them a call and they can help you create a special menu reflective of your tastes and financial needs for holiday gatherings both large and small. And if you’re wearing shorts with children in tow, don’t let the elegant decor turn you off. Silvestro’s is more family- and kid-friendly in its new incarnation. To make reservations, or to inquire about group luncheons, call 783-4853. View their entire menu and wine list online at www.silvestros.com.

Smokehouse Foods
• Tobin Bennison

It’s 11:15 a.m. when we arrive to meet Smokehouse Foods owners Wes and Jackie Meadlock, and the dining room of their Port Canaveral eatery is already starting to fill up. When we emerge from the kitchen after a 10-minute tour and demonstration of their indoor smoker, the line to the counter is twelve deep.

To say that Smokehouse Foods is one the most popular lunch spots in the Port is an understatement. This is the preferred stop of fishermen and nearby engineers on their lunch breaks, and it also attracts other locals who’ve been let in on the secret.

The Port might seem an odd location for an authentic barbecue joint, but regulars are happy the Smokehouse is somewhat concealed. Because here, hidden in plain sight amid a huddle of seafood grills and tiki bars, you’ll find some of the best barbecue in the county. When you learn that the Meadlocks also smoke hundreds of pounds of locally caught fish daily, the location starts to make a lot more sense.

Charters regularly bring in large catches to be smoked and vacuum packed here for safe travel. Customers get to keep half the catch, and the other half is kept by the Meadlocks and either sealed and sold individually, or turned into some of their excellent smoked spreads. In their large refrigerator case, you’ll find shrimp, conch, and salmon spreads, mussels, and golden brown filets of smoked yellowfin, mahi, tilapia, wahoo, amberjack, and kingfish. All seafood is slow-smoked on the Meadlock’s 500-lb. outdoor smoker; a 600-pounder inside is reserved for succulent chicken, beef, and pork, different cuts of which are also stocked in the take-home case. Choose from ribs, tri-tip, whole chickens, breasts, and wings, plump turkey legs, pork butts, Italian sausage, and even alligator.

Originally from North Carolina, Wes lived in Alabama for 13 years, so the Smokehouse barbecue style reflects a mixture of both those states’ traditions, in particular those formed in Eastern Carolina and Northern Alabama. As such, Wes uses vinegar-based barbecue sauces (used only after the smoking stage is complete) and tops many of his sandwiches with homemade coleslaw. As for the wood they use, Wes likes bay for its white smoke, the light, subtle flavor it imparts, and the deep golden color it produces. And we did find that unlike hickory-smoked meats, the Smokehouse’s is suggestively rich rather than overpowering.

A lifelong barbecue aficionado, Wes began to hone his technique in 1995 while cooking at Eau Gallie’s Charlie & Jake’s, which Jackie then co-owned. Now in this location since 1997, he and Jackie seem to have found a comfortable niche, and their easygoing, uplifting personalities have become just as famous as their fantastic food.

We tried one of the Smokehouse’s top sellers, the packed Smokehouse Ultra, a pulled pork sandwich topped with coleslaw, sliced pickles, jalapenos, mustard, and their signature barbecue sauce. We’ve tried a lot of barbecue sandwiches, but this creation, with its harmonious blend of tang, salt, and sweetness, sets a new standard. The Ultra and the Alabama Slammer (pulled pork, vinegar slaw, pickles, and spicy sauce) are two favorites with regulars, but the Meadlock’s fish tacos are downright legendary. Wrapped in a soft tortilla with cabbage, onions, tomatoes, salsa, and shredded cheese, they can be prepared with smoked fish of the day or smoked salmon.

The Smokehouse also offers smoked sausage, pork, beef, chicken, or turkey tacos, and wide selection of wraps — from smoked fish, tuna salad, and a Costa Rican veggie style with Lizano to ham, chicken caesar, tri-tip, and pulled pork. All meats and seafood can be served as traditional sandwiches as well. Also on the menu are five special platters, including things like half chicken, pork loin, wings, and ribs.

Sides include barbecue beans, potato salad, chips and pickle, macaroni and cheese, steamed vegetables, authentic dirty rice, and either creamy or vinegar slaw. There are two other intriguing sides here: Canaveral and Texas caviar, both of which are salsa fresca-style mixtures of fresh beans, vegetables, and spices. Brunswick stew and New England clam chowder are also on hand, as well as large chef’s salads, which can be topped with smoked fish, salmon, seafood salad, or any of their meats.

By the time we leave, every table inside is full and each of the four outdoor picnic benches has been claimed. Business should start to slow down around 1:30 p.m., Wes says, but he and his staff will just begin the real push, preparing more meat and fish for tomorrow. Smoking such a wide variety of food is demanding, exacting work, but witnessing this much enthusiasm for your final product has to be well worth the effort.

Smokehouse Foods is located at 525 Glen Cheek Dr. in Port Canaveral. They’re open Tuesday through Friday from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. and Saturday from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. Call in your order ahead for pickup — 784-9300. The Meadlocks smoke all their fish and meats on the premises and vacuum seal a selection in their refrigerator case for dine-in or take out. They also sell all of their own bottled sauces, as well as several other brands, and a range of deli sundries. Call 24 hours in advance for catering orders; Wes and Jackie can help you put together platters and a selection of side items for business meetings, weddings, and other large gatherings. Order well in advance of Thanksgiving smoked 20-lb. smoked turkeys and 6-lb. hams.

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Juice ‘N Java
• Tobin Bennison •

Ask a group of friends to describe the ideal café and it’s likely you’ll hear some wildly different answers.

What’s sure is that they’ll all find something to love at Juice ‘N Java.

Both expansive and suitably cozy, this favorite local spot pleases the social butterfly and solitary thinker in all of us. There’s enough room outside for a sidewalk patio, and plenty within for large and small works of art, a performance space, full kitchen, a wine bar, and a bona fide coffee roaster. In many ways, Juice ‘N Java is the ideal café, but it also offers so much more than just muffins and mochas.

This January, owner Jenny Pruett will celebrate two years in business, but it seems much longer. This must be due to Jenny’s positive spirit, which flows through every corner of the place — so much so that it’s hard to remember a time when she wasn’t at its helm.

Many will remember Juice ‘N Java’s first incarnation in the Bailiwick Mall, one block to the west, and the way it was under subsequent owners in its present location, but it’s under Jenny that the place has truly come into its own.

Characteristically, Jenny credits the original owner with having set a solid foundation for her success. The rest she chalks up to business basics and her strong sense of faith.

“This was just meant to be,” she says, citing the fortuitous way she came to learn of its availability, the uncommon loyalty of her beloved staff, and the warmth and swiftness with which locals accepted her.

“I know things aren’t great out there, economy-wise,” she admits, “but you wouldn’t know it sitting in here. We are truly blessed to have wonderful customers and to be part of such a great community.”

And giving back to the community is a central tenet of Jenny’s philosophy, as evinced by her support of local artists like Rick Piper and Sheri Stewart, who hosts children’s art classes and activities here from time to time. A bulletin board keeps regulars in touch with civic developments and events, and of a weekday morning, surfers and students can be found mixing with local politicians and businesspeople over coffee and smoothies.

But Jenny’s desire to make Juice ‘N Java an alternative to nocturnal, downtown enticements has ushered in a spate of canny changes here. Having recently earned professional barista certification in San Diego, she hopes to revitalize the café’s standing as an Eden for coffee aficionados. She’s also turned her attention to her wine bar and will soon introduce a revamped menu, which is sure to pull Juice ‘N Java closer toward the realm of upscale bistros.

A special “After 5″ menu will debut later this month, and will feature items like 6- and 10-inch personal pizzas, quesadillas, and nachos. What we’re most looking forward to, however, are some of Jenny’s flatbread creations. There’s a pear and Brie version, drizzled with a Balsamic glaze; a Venetian style, with pesto, grilled chicken, Roma tomatoes, and goat cheese; a simple “Vintage,” topped with grilled onions, oven-roasted garlic, and melted butter; and an Asian chicken flatbread customers are raving about already. Topped with chicken, grilled onions, melted mozzarella, sweet peppers, and an orange mandarin ginger sauce, it’s easy to see why.

The menu will also compliment the café’s well-attended wine bar with an artisan cheese platter, served with crackers and marinated olives, which includes wedges of vintage Van Gogh, Mezzaluna Fontina, Gran Cru Gruyère, Red Spruce Cheddar, and buttermilk Bleu.

Before 5, things are just as interesting. Choose from a number of spring-mix salads like the creamy curry chicken (with Madras curry, craisins, almonds, and honey), the avocado-laden Cobb, the Aloha (which incorporates coconut flakes, mango, and pineapple), and the Piper Crunchy, a perennial favorite named after Cocoa Beach painter Rick Piper. All come with a choice of over 10 house-made dressings.

Juice ‘N Java is also renowned for their deli-style wraps and sandwiches, all of which are prepared with Boar’s Head meats. Paninis can be made with sourdough cheese bread, multi-grain, sun dried tomato bread, or ciabatta. Two of our favorites are the Milano (turkey, Brie, mango chutney, creamy garlic aioli, spring mix, and tomatoes and onions) and the Ultimo, made with turkey, honey maple ham, roast beef, sharp Provolone, and pesto. They also serve excellent tuna and crab melts. If you’re ever in doubt as to what to choose, local favorites are handily indicated.

But breakfast is what many come here for, and their selection of bagels, bialys, and breakfast burritos is one of the best in town. You’ll also find waffles, granola bowls, oatmeal, French toast, smoothies, and of course, a full range of your favorite coffee concoctions made from their espresso machine. Coffee is roasted fresh every Saturday, and the comforting smell draws people from miles around.

More than just a café, Juice ‘N Java is a way of life for many beachside residents. It’s where they love to start their days – and now – it’s also a great evening alternative the next time you find yourself strolling downtown.

Juice ‘N Java Café is located at 75 N. Orlando Ave. in the heart of downtown Cocoa Beach. They’re open Monday and Tuesday from 6 a.m. to 5 p.m.; Wednesday and Thursday from 6 a.m. to 9 p.m.; Friday from 6 a.m. to 10 p.m. (with live music from 7 p.m. to 10 p.m.); Saturday from 7 a.m. to 5 p.m.; and Sunday from 7:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. They routinely host special events, tastings, art openings, and offer live music on Wednesdays and Thursdays. Check their Facebook page for updates and scheduled events. Look forward to their new menu later this month, and expect wine flight night in the near future. They offer a wide range of baked-in-house breakfast treats and several rotating coffee flavors as well. Call 784-4044 for more information.

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The Fat Snook
Tobin Bennison 

Back in August 2007, four months after the Fat Snook first opened, we raved about their excellent dishes, predicting they would set a new dining standard by which all other local restaurants would be judged. Four years on, the Fat Snook has fulfilled that prophecy well beyond those high expectations.

Four years is a long time for any restaurant to be in business, but when you factor in a lagging economy and the precarious future of the area, the span translates into several eons. That the Fat Snook continues to please a fickle, often cash-strapped public is a triumph in itself. That they continue to challenge our taste buds and still garner enthusiastic plaudits must be due to the courage and creativity of owners John and Mona Foy.

Ten years ago, many of us would have laughed a place that served banana polenta out of town and celebrated its retirement at Fuddruckers. Now, thanks to a shift in eating habits brought on by the Internet, increased travel, the Food Network, and innovative chefs like the Foys, we’d probably do the opposite.

As unlikely a combination as it sounds, the Fat Snook’s banana polenta makes perfect sense on the palate. Even though it’s just one component of their seared, jumbo scallop appetizer, it’s just as delicious on its own. Eaten with the scallops and a bacon-maple marmalade, it transforms a simple dish into a flavorful revelation. It’s also just one of the new items on a recently revamped menu that offers many such experiences.

With that, we had a wild blue crab feature with a chilled avocado purée, and house-made, sweet onion dill bread with orange honey butter. With so many permutations of flavors going on in just these three dishes, you’d be forgiven for expecting the odd clash or misstep, but everything worked wonderfully — so much so that you wonder why no one had ever thought of blending them before.

Other new appetizers suggest similar promise, and read like excerpts of psychedelic gourmet verse. There’s seared, island-spiced tenderloin in Jamaican rum sauce with sweet potato hash and crispy shallots, grouper cheeks escovitch, and grilled Harissa shrimp with cilantro mint raita, to name just a few.

Beautifully presented entrées follow this light and colorful Caribbean-influenced theme. Look for seared jumbo scallops and Florida Shrimp Newburg with jasmine rice; blackened chicken breast with black beans, chorizo, jasmine rice, Manchego, and crème fraîche; and pablano pesto shrimp with pumpkin cheddar grits and chorizo cream sauce.

Their Cuba Libre-braised pork belly (with yucca mofongo, jicama salad, and candied lime zest) was excellent, as was the catch of the day — in this case, a thick fillet of cobia — served with forbidden rice (a nutty, black variant of the grain) and a fresh dragon fruit and carambola salad. Both were fine examples of an approach that is highly original without ever seeming forced.

Other entrées include a grilled duck breast (served in a pinot noir-blackberry and fig reduction with duck cracklings) and a grilled salmon pinwheel with fried green tomatoes, mustard aioli, and a warm squash salad. Vegetarian diners can opt for the free-form goat cheese lasagna, and meat lovers will have a hard time deciding between the filet mignon, a Sriracha marinated flat iron steak (served with a bittersweet chocolate demi-glaze), and the 28 oz. “cowboy cut” ribeye, prepared with a Kona coffee rub, and guava barbecue sauce.

The Foy’s insistence on using fresh, local ingredients lends every dish a taste that’s hard to describe. More of a feeling than a taste, it’s like a slight electric shock — a pleasant jolt of life and vibrancy. Though the core of each recipe remains the same, notes and sub-flavors change according to the seasons and what comes freshest from local farms and vendors.

The Fat Snook recently expanded its dining room as well, and the sight of full tables from our vantage point at the bar was a testament to the loyalty the Foys enjoy. Trust is a hard thing to earn in the restaurant business — especially with recipes this adventurous — but the Foys pull the feat off effortlessly.

The Fat Snook is located at 2464 S. Atlantic Ave. in Cocoa Beach. They open at 5:30 p.m., seven days a week, and offer select draughts and a discerning list of boutique wines by the bottle and glass. Call 784-1190 to make recommended reservations. View their entire menu online at: www.thefatsnook.com

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Discovery Beach Cafe

There are a number of good reasons to try Discovery Beach Café — great food, very reasonable prices, secluded location with beach access, and a full bar — but the best is that you may get to reconnect with proprietor and principal chef Frank Morrell.

To say that Frank is a Cocoa Beach legend is something of an understatement. Originally from Brooklyn, he started cooking in 1956 while in the service, and got into the professional restaurant business 15 years later. After relocating beachside in 1976, Frank went on to open the CocoaCabana (now Gregory’s) at the Ocean Landings Resort and the first incarnation of Discovery Beach here on Barlow Ave. in 1990. But it was during his ownership of the iconic Dino’s on 520 that he first earned the adoration of locals.

Dino’s, which he transformed from a dingy dive into a classy, 3,000 sq. ft. supper club and jazz lounge, attracted residents from all backgrounds. Under his management, Dino’s was beloved for its effortless mix of upscale dining and working class warmth. When Frank sold it in 2007, many locals felt bereft — not so much for the closing of the place itself, but for the absence of Frank’s ebullient, big-hearted soul.

After enjoying a brief semi-retirement from the restaurant business, Frank took back the reins of Discovery Beach Café three years ago this August 1. Since reopening, he’s refurbished it extensively and peppered it with decorations and paintings many will remember fondly from Dino’s. He’s also put in a Boar’s Head deli case and has resurrected many of his fans’ favorite recipes, like his original Lobsteraki rolls, fantastic wings, and what I’d say is the best filet mignon in town.

It would be fair to say that Discovery Beach distills all the things everyone has always loved about Frank. And when he’s busy cooking (as he often is), diners can console themselves with the presence of his equally affable fiancée Mary Lacina, who has helped perfect the homemade soups and sauces found here. From the pepper Parmesan wing sauce and au jus that accompanies the French dip sandwich to the marinara that compliments the many Italian dishes found here, Mary’s efforts help Frank’s dishes shine the brighter.

At the Café, you’ll find a wide selection of lunch items — from hot dogs and hamburgers to salads, subs, and great sandwiches (like the club, a perennial favorite) — and appetizers that range from potato skins and alligator tail (!) to escargot and succulent Maryland crab cakes. As far as dinner items go, you’ll find steaks (6- and 8-oz. filet mignon; 8-, 10-, and 12-oz. New York strip, and 10-oz. top sirloin, all of which are hand cut), fresh seafood items (Frank’s seasoned salmon filet was fantastic), pork schnitzel, and authentic German bratwurst with sauerkraut, as well as chicken prepared à la Parmesan, Piccata, Marsala, or Francaise. The Café is very family friendly; kids can choose from a variety of smaller-portioned items.

If you’re not looking for Discovery Beach Café, you might miss it. Located at the Discovery Beach Resort at 300 Barlow Ave., the Café offers plentiful parking, an exclusive entrance by the pool, and access to the beach. There’s also an adjacent outdoor tiki bar set to open soon and a pick-up service window. The Café’s relatively obscure location lends it the kind of secretive status locals love having on their list of dining options.

Whether you’re looking to enjoy a drink in a quiet place away from the crowds, have a hankering for one of the best steaks in town, or just in search of a hearty deli sandwich, Discovery Beach Café is well worth the search.

Discovery Beach Café is located at 300 Barlow Ave. in Cocoa Beach (just take a left at the Dunkin’ Donuts on A1A and head due east) at the Discovery Beach Resort. They’re open Tuesdays and Thursdays from 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m., Fridays from 11:30 to 10 p.m., Saturdays from noon to 10 p.m., and Sundays from noon to 6 p.m. (Closed Mondays throughout the summer.) On Wednesdays they prepare an outdoor cookout (to which the public are welcome) for hotel guests from noon to 1 p.m. (the Café reopens for dinner service at 4 p.m.) Lunch is served throughout the day and night, but dinner service begins each day at 4 p.m. Outdoor seating and a service window are available as is video game arcade for kids near the lobby. Check back with the Resident for news about their planned tiki bar. Cold cuts and cheeses are available from their deli case for picnickers. Frank offers many daily specials as well as themed-dinner specials throughout the week. Tuesdays see barbecued ribs and chicken, Wednesdays are Italian night, and Fridays offer fried haddock and shrimp specials. Order any dinner entrée throughout August and get the second (of equal or lesser value) at half price. Happy hour is held daily from 11:30 to 7 p.m. Call 783-1766 to order ahead. View their entire menu online at: www.discoverybeachcafe.com

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Marco & Cinta Auddino’s
Tobin Bennison

In the interest of furthering the development of the beachside community, I’ve long thought of opening a bakery. Not the quaint, nibbly variety you find in college towns mind you, but a European-style outfit, or the kind of blue-collar café hybrid you find in Italian-American areas throughout the North East.

The one thing keeping me from seeing my dream become a reality, however, isn’t my lack of funds, but the simple fact that I can’t baker worth a damn. Oh, I’ve whipped together a few yeasty things resembling loaves, but only after several years worth of mistakes. What I’d need, I realized, was the pedigree, the experience of at least a generation behind me. This project would take a while…

Thankfully, for the sake of beachside residents, Marco and Jacinta “Cinta” Auddino beat me to it.

It’s hard to compete with a guy whose first toy was a ball of dough. Marco Auddino’s father, Mike (or “Bubba” to his family), started his own bakery in Columbus, Ohio in 1968 with the help of a $500 bank loan. With that money, Mike bought some equipment, including a Hobart mixer (which is still in use), an oven, and a display case, and rented out a 500 sq. ft. space to begin practicing the art he studied in Europe. Originally from the Calabria region of Italy, Mike oversees Columbus’s largest privately-owned bakery, a cultural landmark with on-site flour silos that occupies an entire city block.

It was there that Marco learned the craft of baking from an early age. Though his two brothers and mother still work with the Auddino patriarch at the original location, Marco and Cinta decided to open their own bakery here in Port Canaveral after falling in love with the area while on their 2006 honeymoon. Following extensive remodeling of the space they found, installing a water purifier, and meticulously adapting old recipes to match the new warmer climate and lower elevation, Marco and Cinta opened their doors in May of last year.

Here at the spacious facility, Marco has the ability to produce over 1,000 dozen pieces of dough and hour and bake 100 dozen every 10 minutes — 600 dozen in an hour. He delivers his creations, which cover everything from Italian loaves, cookies, and pastries to Kaiser rolls, onion buns, and focaccia, to a number of local restaurants, including Milliken’s Reef, Discovery Cove, Drifters Subs, Juice N’ Java Café, and the King’s Duck Inn in Merritt Island. Another client, Fishlips, saw their bread and roll sales increase 35% since using Auddino’s versions.

But the really interesting thing about Auddino’s is the way they wed the efficiency of mass production with the relaxed atmosphere of a small-town café eatery. In the morning, at the long counter and tables within, locals enjoy authentic espresso and cappuccino, excellent fresh-baked doughnuts and pastries (including fried croissants, a Columbus specialty), and come back later for fresh subs and sandwiches, pizza, and Cinta’s baked pasta.

Pizzas come in two sizes — 7″ and 14″ — with toppings like pepperoni, onion, sausage, bacon, ham, pepperoncini, and sliced tomatoes. Our pizza dough was perfect — yielding, elastic, and crisp at the same time — and leaving the crust on the plate was simply not an option. What’s more, the Auddinos make a pie that’s flavorful all the way through — from the sauce to down to the the crust. The same hold true for their hot sausage and meatball subs, as well as the Italian, which includes capicola, pepperoni, ham, salami, pepperoncini, Provolone, lettuce, tomato, onion, and Italian dressing.

The prize though, has got to go to their muffuletta, a fantastic sandwich comprised mortadella, salami, capicola, ham, onion, pepperoncini, Provolone, and oil and vinegar dressing between two pieces of olive tapenade-spread focaccia. If it’s a mouthful to describe, it’s even more of one to consume, but the delightful mingling of flavors has made it one of Auddino’s most popular items. It’s a perennial special here, along with several other rotating items like eggplant Parmigiana and lasagna.

It’s hard to leave without sampling a few of the beautiful treats in the dessert case, a collection that covers a whole range of influences and styles. If you’re not drawn to several flavors of authentic gelato and granita, choose from staples like cookies, brownies, cream puff and horns, fritters, turnovers, and cheesecake to hard-to-find traditional items like delicate sfogliatelle, amaretti, biscotti, pizzelles, Napoleons, cannoli, tiramisu, and cassata cake. Cinta, who learned baking from Marco’s father as well, shows impressive skill with the hand-decorated cakes she bakes for special events and occasions. Cinta often puts together colorful pastry and cookie trays for up to 50 people.

Marco and Cinta’s is also an incredibly friendly place, exactly the kind of spot I envisioned for the area. And they do it so much better than I ever could have.

Drop in and try them out. You won’t regret it.

Marco and Cinta Auddino’s Italian Bakery is located at 523 Glen Cheek Dr. in Port Canaveral. They’re open Tuesday through Thursday from 7 a.m. to 6 p.m.; Fridays and Saturdays from 7 p.m. to 8 p.m.; Sundays from 7 p.m. to 4 p.m. Closed Mondays. The Auddino’s can also cater any event, large or small. Call to order in for pick up: (321) 205-1210.

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Ideally, good restaurants should provide something much more than just edible sustenance.

Our favorite eateries certainly serve food we like, but we often return to the same place for a great many other reasons — the atmosphere, the people, and the comfort and sense of community they offer. We go to them to get our bellies filled of course, but we also go to feed our spirits.

Scores of locals and returning tourists agree that the Green Room Café in downtown Cocoa Beach is one such restaurant. More than just a place to grab a quick smoothie or healthy organic wrap, the Green Room is also a vibrant social hub, somewhere families can go for a meal, where school teams relax post-practice, or where yoga groups or vegan clubs gather for convivial meetings. The lure, it seems, stems from the positive energy the Green Room and its staff exude.

Message cards distributed inside explain the Green Room’s philosophy: that simple acts of kindness are contagious, and that however insignificant they may at first seem, they also have a wonderful habit of reverberating and multiplying. Recounting a time when a usually cheerful regular came in rather downcast, the card describes a Green Room server taking notice and buying the customer’s meal for him. Owner Deborah Wright noticed the transformation in his demeanor and seized on the idea of making up cards commemorating the moment to promote the café’s devotion to spreading positivity.

To Deborah, this event is part of the Green Room’s adherence to “the big picture.” “It’s about making the extra effort,” she explains. “It starts with the organic ingredients we use and the time we take to prepare the food, but it’s also about being kind to one another — both our staff and our customers. Much of what we do is not cost-effective from a business standpoint, but everything — from the preparation, the serving, and the locally, hand-crafted bowls we use and to all the recycling we do — is all integrated into the bigger picture here.”

This “all-in” sustainable approach has proved successful, given what Deborah reckons is “easily an 80% rate” of return customers. “We want people to come in and have a good time,” she says, “and to leave feeling full of warmth.”

That the Green Room serves some highly creative and healthy, organic-based dishes certainly helps as well. With an emphasis on sandwiches, wraps, homemade soups, salads, and real fruit smoothies, the Green Room goes the extra mile by providing tasty vegetarian and vegan choices and wheat- and gluten-free alternatives of each — including organic baked desserts from Heavenly Bake Shop.

Both filling and surprisingly light, Green Room wraps are what most folks come for. And though the lone true-meat wrap, “The Secret Spot” (made with black beans, brown rice, cheese, tomatoes, carrots, potatoes, and seasoned organic chicken), is easily its most popular, cranky carnivores are easily swayed by the vegetarian options that make up the fresh soul of the Green Room’s menu.

“The Yogi” (hummus, avocado, cheese, and fresh vegetables) runs a close second in popularity, but the six other versions (all of which are served with tortilla chips and salsa) are just as delicious. There’s “The Golden Fold” (brown rice, carrots, pineapple, sesame seeds, spinach, cabbage, and tofu); “Mavericks” (vegetarian chili, brown rice, and tomato and cheese); “The J-Bay” (corn, peppers, zucchini, black beans, brown rice and cheese); “The Bendalong” (grilled with cheese, spinach, tomato, carrot and mushrooms, and served with honey mustard); and “The Pure Life” (hummus, tomato, carrot, cucumber, spinach, cabbage, mushrooms, and baby greens). Another excellent choice is “The Bondi,” which derives much of its rich flavor from seasoned Quorn beef. Made from mycoprotein, Quorn does an excellent job of approximating the texture and flavor of ground beef. When its joined, as it is here, with black beans, brown rice and cheese, even the most avowed meat eaters will fall for its tasty charm.

Fresh sandwiches include “The Viejo” (a veggie patty topped with cheese, tomatoes, sprouts, carrots, cucumbers, and mayonnaise and mustard); “The Inlet” (Quorn chicken substitute, mayo, lettuce, sprouts, and tomato and carrots); “Spanish House” (grilled smoky tofu, Provolone, tomatoes, chipotle mustard, and veggies); two tuna choices in “The Oceanside” and “The Sunset”; “The Ruebio,” the Green Room’s tofu-based take on the classic Reuben, and the excellent “Local,” served with yogurt and built with peanut butter, banana, pineapple, cinnamon, brown sugar, and granola.

The Green Room wouldn’t be green without a selection of fresh salads, and there are five types to choose from. Our personal favorite is “The Zimzala,” comprised of baby greens, celery, Mandarin orange segments, and walnuts topped with slices of meatless chicken filet, goat cheese, and poppy seed dressing. They also serve fresh-squeezed juices, wheat grass shakes, coffee drinks, and house-brewed tea, and 13 styles of smoothies made on the spot, seven of which are prepared with Sambazon acai berries. Acai also plays a big role in the Green Room’s berry bowls, which are always a great way to start the day.

You can look forward to a new selection of “Weekend Changeup” specials on Fridays and Saturdays, but kids can always rely on the favorites made just for them — things like the “Go Bananas” (peanut butter, banana, and honey), “The Gidget” (cheese quesadilla with or without meatless chicken), and the “Lil’ Gremmie” (imitation chicken soft taco with cheese, lettuce, and tomato). Children here aren’t simply catered to as they are elsewhere in deference to their parents; they’re counted as customers themselves.

Much more than your average restaurant, the Green Room Café puts the “neighbor” back in neighborhood in ways you’ll be surprised to discover.

The Green Room Café is located at 222 1st St. N. in downtown Cocoa Beach. They’re open Monday through Saturday from 10:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. The Green Room also serves beer and wine and can cater for special events. Call 868-0203, or visit www.greenroomcafecocoabeach.com

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Jazzy’s Mainely Lobster

Each year around this time, when the weather warms up and Summer comes clad in Spring’s disguise, we here at the Resident think back on a great meal we had with family and friends beneath an umbrella outside Mainely Lobster in 2008.

A few weeks back, we decided it was high time we returned to recreate that magic. We were doubly pleased with our efforts because the place is even better than we remembered.

There’s never been a better time to go back yourselves — or try them for the first time. You can sit outside in the sun, as we did once again, or you can sit indoors in the air-conditioned dining room, just one of the many improvements original owner Doug Labnon has made since his return just over a year-and-a-half ago.

Originally from New Hampshire, Labnon has been working with lobsters since his youth. When he opened the first wholesale incarnation of Mainely Lobster in 1989, he quickly became one of the largest lobster distributors on the East Coast of Florida, regularly moving 3,000 of the tasty crustaceans per day.

Mainely Lobster changed hands in 2004, morphing into a casual eatery and seafood retail outlet, but closed a few years later after experiencing middling success. Toward the end of 2009, Labnon came back with many of his old loyal crew, including Chef Pete, cleaned up and reorganized, and renamed the place in honor of his daughter, Jazzy, whose birth coincided with the reopening.

Jazzy’s indoor dining area is the most obvious change, but you’ll get a stronger impression of the difference once you try some of their fresh seafood. Like we said, it’s best to take advantage of the sun in the outdoor seating area to get a true feeling of how these dishes are meant to be enjoyed.

Jazzy’s new consolidated menu features seafood baskets — grouper, mahi scallops, shrimp, clam strips, crab cakes, and a 2-lb. lobster dinner — all of which can be ordered with a side item of your choice. Choose from fries, onion rings, hushpuppies, sweet potato fries, fried green tomatoes, cole slaw, macaroni salad, a side salad, or cole slaw. Shrimp and scallops can be fried or sautéed, and all fish can be blackened, grilled, or fried.

In addition to appetizers like fresh peel-and-eat shrimp, steamed middleneck clams, and lightly fried scallops, Jazzy’s also offers salads (to which you can add chilled lobster, fried shrimp, scallops, or fish) and award-winning clam chowder. User-generated reviews on Urban Spoon and Yelp praise Jazzy’s authentic version, and we too can attest to its excellence.

Fish sandwiches are popular, and Jazzy’s makes great burgers and steamed Nathan’s hot dogs, but the real star of the show is the incredible lobster roll, their signature dish prepared New England-style on an authentic roll. Creamily cool and refreshing, we can’t think of a better way to usher in the new season and the summer to come.

Jazzy’s Mainely Lobster is located at 210 N. Orlando Ave. in Cocoa Beach. You can dine in, or take out by calling 613-3993. Beer, wine, soda, and house-made lemonade is served, and they sell fresh fish, shellfish, and fresh or steamed lobsters retail inside.

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Skewers
Tobin Bennison

That “soul” is widely lamented as a missing facet in much of today’s cuisine is no secret, and concerted efforts have been made to right the wrong — usually by highlighting food that reflects a specific cultural heritage.

In a broad sense, Mediterranean cuisine is the best example of this corrective approach. With its emphasis on heart-healthy preparation and colorful, fresh ingredients, food from this crucible of several disparate civilizations has roots that reach back millennia. What’s more, the food is still evolving, embracing elements of each culture as fervently as it remains essentially unchanged.

Though Indialantic’s Mediterranean-inspired Skewers uses Lebanese food as a foundation, influences stemming from Israel, Syria, Turkey, Morocco, Greece, Italy, France, and Spain can also be found on their menu. Run by the gracious and friendly Smeen family since 1983, Skewers is also a calming oasis that doesn’t lack for soul.

It’s been two weeks since we ate at Skewers, but the wonderful memory, redolent with the scent of herbs and olive oil, is still fresh in our minds. We’re also still in disagreement as to what we like best about the place: the food, or Eddie and Joyce Smeen.

Like the excellent food here, the Skewers experience is a true mélange that appeals to several senses. As guests of the Smeens, we were treated to a meal that unfolded slowly and naturally, a pace that had us pining for the forgotten art of eating communally in the company of good people. If there’s one overriding impression you get from a Skewers meal, it’s that eating is a social event marked by sharing — the sharing of stories, ideas, and feelings, as well as the dishes themselves. By the time we left, we felt more like family members who’d been invited into the Smeen’s home.

Our generous spread offered a bit of everything, and we feel it’s the best way to get the full Skewers experience. And though flatware is part of the table setting, the food is best enjoyed the traditional way, with paper-thin slices of pita bread being the preferred utensil. With it, we scooped into rich humus, tabouleh, cool yogurt dip, feta salad, foul madamas (a purée of Egyptian fava beans and minced garlic), and smoky baba ghanouj. We’ve found that baba ghanouj — an eggplant dip blended with herbs and spices — can often be a hit-or-miss dish, but the Smeen’s version was the best we’ve had. The secret, it seems, lies in the slow-baked preparation and the meticulous removal of bitter membrane and seeds. When spread on a serving of stuffed grape leaves or kibbeh, it took on new shades of flavor.

Kibbeh, a popular but hard-to-find Middle Eastern delicacy, is a blend of puréed sirloin and cracked wheat formed and stuffed into a shell of sautéed steak and pine nuts. Other East Mediterranean specialties include kafta, ouzi, mjadara (a blend of lentils and jasmine rice), and mousakhan — a charbroiled half chicken smothered in tangy sautéed onions.

In keeping with their name, Skewers also offers a selection of charbroiled kabobs, including lamb, chicken, steak, seafood, and vegetables. Perfectly seasoned and tender meat plays a big role here, but it is by no means Skewers’ central focus. Fresh vegetables and herbs are what really reign, and they figure prominently in every item. Many wholly vegetarian dishes are on hand, each indicated clearly on the menu.

Skewers also caters to children with a special menu, and a variety of sandwiches and platters are served for lunch (11 a.m. to 4 p.m.). Mixed platters are offered, but items can be combined and matched to create your own sampling. Again, ordering a smattering of several appetizers and entrées and sharing them with friends is the best way to get an authentic feel for Skewers. Ending with one of Joyce’s desserts is also highly recommended. We tried a light banana cake and crisp, honeyed baklava with our cardamom-scented Armenian coffees.

If you’re looking for soul in your food, look no further than Skewers, a restaurant that settles easily into its spot as a Beachside Resident favorite.

Skewers Mediterranean Grille is located at 144 5th Avenue in Indialantic. Skewers is open Monday through Friday from 11 a.m. to 9:30 p.m., Saturday from Noon to 9:30 p.m., and Sunday from 4 p.m. to 8:30 p.m. Skewers also features two outdoor terraces in which to enjoy hookahs and live belly dancing and music on Saturday nights. The Smeens also offer catering services (along with made-to-specification cakes by Joyce) and space for private gatherings and events. You can view their entire menu online at: www.skewersrestaurant.net. Call 727-8944 for more information or to make reservations.

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The 2011 Annual Cocoa Beach Wine & Food Festival

This March 12, Lori Wilson Park will be transformed once again into an international tasting village as part of the 2011 Cocoa Beach Wine & Food Festival.

The Festival will gather a diverse collection of 30 of Brevard’s most renowned chefs to prepare food samples from their establishments paired with a selection of wines selected by discerning sommeliers. This number of featured restaurants is up from the 13 who participated last year, and the wines chosen for the 2011 event have been whittled down to a mixture of four stellar red and white vintages. Legendary music group America, who are currently on tour as part of their 40th anniversary, will round off the day’s events with a live concert in the Park.

Proceeds from this year’s Festival will benefit the Children’s Home Society of Florida and Junior Achievement of the Space Coast, two charities that have always been close to Craig Technologies, Inc. CEO and Festival presenter Carol Craig’s heart.

Craig has long been involved with both charities, and Festival co-director Tony Hernandez III can attest to both organizations’ importance to the community. “As an attorney who practices family law and who has dealt with the Children’s Home Society,” says Hernandez, “I’ve found them to be very proactive in preventing child abuse… And that’s extremely important, because police officers are really not in the preventive business; they usually get involved after the fact. CHS is there before it happens, providing teaching, monitoring, counseling, and many other services to prevent abuse and neglect on all fronts.”
As for Junior Achievement, Hernandez sees them as operating at the other — and no less essential — end of the spectrum by fostering investment in our youth to better our community and, ultimately, the world at large. “It’s about helping mold teenage entrepreneurs,” Hernandez explains. “Kids learn from an early age how to sell their ideas and how to be convincing, passionate, and respectful — all those qualities that are necessary to becoming good businessmen and women.”

Since he conceived of the idea for the Festival over four years ago, Hernandez has been driven by a desire to give back to the local community. “When I came up with the idea, my first question to myself was whether it was something that was needed by the area. Will it add to the community economically, socially, culturally, and historically? I think it will on these and many other levels — and hopefully its effects will still be felt after we wrap it up for the night.”

With sponsors like Brighthouse Networks, Clear Channel, the Eye Clinic, Lite Rock 99.3 FM, Alpizar Law, Brandt Ronat + Co, and Space Coast Living, the Festival bolsters last year’s roster of participating restaurants with some intriguing newcomers, including Silvestro’s, the Chart House, the Melting Pot, Vintage 56, and Green Room Café.

Also new to the lineup are Matt’s Casbah; Petty’s Meat Market; Mary’s Downtown Salsa; Pizza Gallery; Mambo’s Beachside Bar & Grill; Asian Too; A Taste of Thai, and Charlie & Jake’s Brewery Grille. Making a welcome return to this year’s festival, along with Gregory’s, Fishlips, the Lobster Shanty, and Rusty’s, is Chef Peter Lin, whose Chameleon Fusion Bistro in Melbourne has won rave reviews for its fusion of European and Pacific Rim flavors. Lin made some stellar dishes in 2010, as did chef Javier Gonzalez of Rubio’s Cuban Café, Chef Trevor Dixon of the Caribbean-influenced Trevor’s Blue Toucan, and Brazilian Chef Boaz DaCosta of the Cocoa Village-based Brasas Grill.

Juice-N-Java Café will be returning with their excellent fresh-roasted coffee, along with the Bald Strawberry, which, with 2011 newcomer The Confectionery, will be offering an array of delicious sweets and baked goods. But perhaps the most surprising addition to the Festival will be the Cape Canaveral Hospital Restaurant, headed by Chef Will Hannon. Many locals, including Hernandez, rave about the food Hannan prepares at one of the best-kept culinary secrets in the area. “Not only do they have one of the cleanest restaurants in the business,” says Hernandez, “but you’d really be surprised by the excellence of their food. I think they make the best burger in town.”

After the Tasting Village, which will be operating from 2 p.m. to 5 p.m. surrounding a centrally-located wine tasting bar manned by local celebrities like Mayor Skip Beeler, Health First CEO Mike Means, Sean and Skip Slater, and Carol Craig herself, the Festival will continue with live music from local band MoGeetz, a series of raffles, and the opening of food, beer, and wine vendor booths. The day is capped off by a performance from ’70s band America — responsible for such hits as “A Horse with No Name,” “Sister Golden Hair,” and “Lonely People” — from 6 p.m. to 8 p.m.

The 2011 Cocoa Beach Wine & Food Festival takes place March 12 from 2 p.m. to 8 p.m. at Lori Wilson Park in Cocoa Beach, about 1 and 1/2 miles south of S.R. 520. Tickets are $45 and are available for advance purchase through the Festival website — www.cocoabeachwinefoodfestival.com — at both Petty’s Meat Market locations, Lexus of Melbourne, and any community credit union. Ticket price includes admission to the food and wine tasting event and the finale concert. Admission is $50 at the door, but tickets are limited. Due to the nature of the Festival, attendants should be 21 years of age or older. For more details, visit www.cocoabeachwinefoodfestival.com, or call 799-3971.

Boston Beef & Seafood

It’s hard to find anything on our shores comparable to the fish houses of the New England.

Floridians love their seafood, but nowhere near the same degree as Bostonians do. Go to any town along the coast of Massachusetts and you’ll find places like Boston Beef & Seafood on just about every corner, establishments — both modest and grand — that specialize in the bounty of the sea. Particularly popular are clams — fresh, fried, or in chowder — as well as scallops, oysters, shrimp, lobster, haddock, and cod, but you’ll also find burgers and another Boston delicacy, thinly-shaved top round roast beef sandwiches served with a distinctively sweet barbecue sauce.

Boston Beef & Seafood owner Charlie Soffron, who hails from a long line of Ipswich fishermen, grew up eating in such places, often several times a week. Charlie’s grandfather, Thomas, a pioneering clam digger and restaurateur, was instrumental in popularizing fried clams through Howard Johnson’s, and when the concept took off, he helped establish hundreds of locations during their expansion in the 1940s.

Charlie himself had long wanted to open an authentic New England seafood house here in Cocoa Beach, and when the opportunity arose — either through fate or sheer luck — the first, smaller version of his vision opened in Cape Canaveral. The place was an instant hit with locals and visitors from up North, and two years ago Charlie opened the family-oriented Boston Beef & Seafood in its current, larger location in Cocoa Beach near the Days Inn. When he’s not cooking in the back or greeting regular customers by name here, the gregarious Charlie is out on the floor introducing himself to newcomers with his contagious smile.

Freshly caught seafood is flown in daily from the Northeast (and often picked up by Charlie himself), and the beef, slow-cooked to pink, medium-rare perfection, is hand-carved to order. So to get the full Boston Beef & Seafood experience, we tried a little of both.

The chowder is as creamy and meaty as you’d find in Quincy or Gloucester, and it’s made according to an old family recipe that’s as simple as it is closely guarded. The shrimp were sweet and plump (and far larger than many here may be used to) as were the sea scallops. And the clams? Fantastic. All this came with some incredibly flaky haddock filets and fries and onion rings.

There’s a reason fried seafood turns some people off — and it’s probably because they’ve never had Charlie’s lightly-battered version. Everything was grease-free and cooked to juicy perfection, so much so that we’d cleared the plate without making much of a dent in the homemade tartar and cocktail sauces. But there was still some of his famous roast beef to be eaten. The sandwiches come in three sizes, and we ordered ours Charlie’s way — with mayonnaise, cheese, and James River barbecue sauce, Boston’s preferred brand. We’ve had a lot of roast beef, but none as tender and flavorful as this.

Everything here is generously plated — from the Maine crab cakes and 10-oz. steak burgers to their authentic lobster rolls — and all the seafood can be served in basket, plate, or platter portions. Charlie also does a brisk business in steak and lobster dinners, fish and chicken sandwiches, and grilled fish entrées, of which the baked haddock, stuffed with lobster and crab, is a crowd favorite.

It’s easy to see why the place enjoys such a great reputation. It’s one thing to win Floridians over with this kind of food, but to hear native Bostonians and New Englanders shower it with such praise is something special. All agree that Boston Beef & Seafood is a phenomenal catch.

Boston Beef & Seafood is located at 5590 N. Atlantic Ave. in Cocoa Beach next to the Days Inn. They’re open Monday through Thursday from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.; Fridays from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Saturdays from 7 a.m. to 10 p.m.; and Sundays from 7 a.m. to 9 p.m. Breakfast is served both Saturday and Sunday, and features house specials, four-egg omelets, eggs benedict, waffles, pancakes, and more. Lobster rolls are the big draw each Friday, and nightly dinner specials are offered after 4 p.m. every day. All menu items are available for take out, and fresh fish — including live lobsters — is sold retail inside. For more details, call 784-4000.

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The Beachside Café

This past Christmas, over 50 regulars got together with waitstaff to throw a surprise party for Beachside Café owners Luigi and Sonja Fusco.

If that doesn’t tell you how beloved this Indialantic breakfast spot is, then just try one of their excellent benedicts.

There are nine varieties to choose from here, and they’re easily the most popular items their menu. There’s the Beachside (made with ham and fresh spinach); the Grouper or Mahi Benedict (with fresh spinach and Parmesan cheese); the Avocado (with bacon, spinach, and Parmesan); the Greek (spinach, tomatoes and feta); the Hash (corned beef hash and cheddar); the Swiss (spinach, mushrooms, and real Swiss); the Country (with ham, sausage, and bacon); the Polska (with Polish smoked sausage and cheddar), and the Nova, made with smoked salmon and spinach.

But it’s not all about the benedicts at the Beachside Café. More than anything, it’s about the Fuscos.

Originally from Italy, Luigi opened this sunny spot in August of 2000 with his Swiss wife Sonja — and it’s still going strong. Luigi reckons that at least 25 of his regular customers — many of them surfers — eat here every day, lured as much by the great food as they are by the warm, family-like atmosphere the Fuscos have established.

Luigi and Sonja had vacationed in the area regularly years prior to opening the Café and abandoned their respective careers as graphic designer and nurse to share fresh, honest food with the community they’d grown to love. As evinced by the Christmas party they organized, locals have embraced both the Fuscos and their food with open arms.

Boasting consistently high customer service reviews from the consumer-driven travel guide Trip Advisor, the Beachside Café has also earned its laurels with their many other breakfast and lunch dishes.

If anything could be said to run a close second to the benedicts, it’s the Fusco’s skillets, inclusive egg/hashbrown fry-up versions of their benedicts that include an Italian, which features ham, Genoa salami, mozzarella, tomatoes, onions, and Parmesan. You’ll also find more traditional fare like pancakes, Belgian waffles, egg combos, biscuits and gravy, country-fried steak, and a variety of four-egg omelets.

Other specials include stuffed French toast and hearty “create your own” brunch burritos or wraps, made with a choice of two meats, three veggies, one cheese, and eggs, served with a choice of side — hashbrowns, home fries, grits, pasta or potato salad, cole slaw, French fries, or onion rings.

Additionally, the Beachside Café offers a range of salads, quiches, soups, and fresh, deli-style sandwiches served on home-baked, hand-cut rye bread. Among them are a Reuben, a Classic Club, and our favorite, the Luigi, made with roast sirloin, Swiss, lettuce, tomato, cole slaw, horseradish, and Russian dressing.

Whether you go for breakfast or lunch, visiting the Beachside Café is a great way to start off the new year. You may even make some new friends.

The Beachside Café is located at 109 5th Avenue in Indialantic. They’re open seven days a week from 7 a.m. to 2 p.m. Call 953-8444, or visit them online at: www.thebeachsidecafe.com

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Merritt’s Table
By Tobin Bennison

Merritt’s Table, the newest and most exciting addition to the local culinary scene, opened this past October in what some might say is the perfect spot for its refreshing approach to dining.

It took owner Laura Farrelly and chef Chris Bolton two years of searching — from Charleston to Key West and as far west as Santa Fe, NM — to find what Laura calls “just the right place in a community of great people.” The first time the two saw the location, which was then Madison’s Courtyard and prior to that, Courtyard on Grove on the charming, tree-canopied stretch of Grove St. in Merritt Island — they knew they’d found their dream spot. The building that now houses the cozy Merritt’s Table was originally a private residence built in 1926. As such, the inside dining area is broken up into small rooms and intimate spaces, which gives diners the feeling of having the place all to themselves. Their outside courtyard is a serene, relaxing space, the perfect setting in which to enjoy the Table’s incredibly beautiful food.

“We’ve planted chef’s gardens throughout the courtyard,” says Laura, “so in addition to wonderful shady spots from enormous white birds ofparadise, bamboo, and bougainvillea, you’re also eating among our seasonal plantings of everything from herbs and tomatoes to arugula and turnip greens.”

Laura and Chris met while working together on a short-term project opening a boutique hotel and restaurant in northeast Georgia. During that time, the duo found that they worked well together and shared the same passion for and philosophy about food. “We wanted to create a place that offered genuine food in an intimate space that the community could embrace as their ‘special place,’” Laura tells us.

Part of the reason she and Chris decided to call decided to call it Merritt’s Table was because both share a sense of nostalgia about the table. “It’s a place where family and friends sit together to enjoy food and wine, life stories, and the day’s events,” she explains. “The table is a place where we take the time to shed off the bustle of the day and enjoy ourselves. Chris’s mom always says she’d like to get rid of her worn-out dining room table, but she can’t seem to do it because she likes the idea of how many knees have been under it. We like that idea too.”

Chris believes that starting with the freshest ingredients available and then working with them as little as possible creates the best, most genuine food. “We don’t over-season or over-sauce any of our dishes,” Laura says. “We let great ingredients speak for themselves.” Everything at Merritt’s Table is made in-house from scratch, including their bread and ice cream, something that gives them precise control over the quality of their food at its most basic ingredient level. What you get here is food prepared without the addition of any preservatives or additives — just dishes at their most natural. Organic ingredients are used when available, but their main goal is to buy locally as much as possible, as sustainability plays just an important a role in their food philosophy.

Accordingly, the menu at Merritt’s Table changes frequently, based on whatever fresh ingredients they can procure. But along with the fresh bread, inventive ice creams, and Chris’s lemon cheese grits, the semi-standard farm-fresh duck breast has proven popular among customers. As we went to print, the Table’s dinner menu featured appetizers like yellowfin tuna tartare (served with preserved grapefruit and fennel slaw); New Zealand lamb lollipops; goat cheese marinated with fresh herbs, garlic, shallots, and Kalamata olives; and coriander-encrusted tuna with tapenade and red onion cream. We also found a selection of salads and homemade soups, including a chilled avocado and sweet corn creation served with cucumber and tomato salsa.

As for entrées, the list reads like poetry — panko and tarragon-crusted oven-fried chicken, with cardamom-whipped sweet potatoes; a coriander-rubbed flat iron steak with roasted poblano and chimichurri over crushed new potatoes; seared sea scallops served over lemon cheese grits and a fondue of tomatoes and basil; a cider cured bone-in pork chop; sautéed triple tail with a black truffle relish; local black grouper baked with corn soufflé and Key Lime beurre blanc — it all sounds too good to be true, but this is some of the most phenomenal food in the area.

Merritt’s Table also boasts an interesting wine list, primarily comprised of selections from boutique vineyards and small lot productions. Dining here gives you the opportunity to try not only unique dishes, but also a great selection of wines that you wouldn’t ordinarily find in other eateries or wine shops.

The best thing about Merritt’s Table, thanks to their discerning taste and mutable menu, is that everything is special from day to day. Each time you sit at their welcoming table, you’re offered new and different choices. And isn’t that really what the dining experience is all about?

Merritt’s Table is located at 170 N. Grove St. in Merritt Island. They are open for lunch (11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m.) and dinner (5:30 p.m. to 9 p.m.) every day except Monday. Since they make everything in-house, from scratch, reservations are recommended. Call 208-7957, and view their full menu online at: www.merrittstable.com. Chris and Laura hope to offer special wine dinners and cooking classes if there is enough interest in the area. People are encouraged to e-mail Laura if they are interested in such events: laura@merrittstable.com. The Table is a great place to host your holiday parties and gatherings, and they’ll be preparing a prix fixe dinner for New Year’s Eve; check their menu online.

POMPANO GRILL

There’s a wood carving hanging in Cocoa Beach’s Pompano Grill that says more about chef Mark Siljestrom’s philosophy than any full-length article could.

It looks vaguely like a Caribbean folk art take on the archetypal cornucopia, a still-life depiction of some fruit and vegetables that, like several other accoutrements here, predates the Pompano Grill by some 20 years. When Siljestrom bought it, he’d barely begun his professional career, but he knew that one day it would hang in his own restaurant. That it hangs here now, in one of the most widely praised, under-the-radar eateries in Cocoa Beach, is testament to the fact that Siljestrom has poured his soul into every aspect of the Pompano Grill, from the heirloom tableware to its popular Salmon Amandine.

Similarly, that recipe played just as important a role in Siljestrom and the Pompano’s unofficial history, one shaped as much by effusive love as by practical technique. Under the tutelage of some chefs he still refers to with warm praise, Siljestrom learned to cook from the ground up in several Delray Beach restaurants where he was also maître d’. One chef in particular, the Swiss Manfred Hacker of the Chef’s Touch, so impressed Siljestrom that he began working under him for free. After two weeks of silent observation, Hacker finally showed his approval by preparing a meal of Salmon Amandine Siljestrom has immortalized here at the Pompano. Like everything on the menu, it serves a dual purpose: to honor those dishes that first inspired him and to replicate that joy for his patrons.

That those patrons come to the Pompano Grill to propose marriage and celebrate anniversaries and birthdays is something that makes Siljestrom particularly proud. That he’s been able to share so much time with the family members and friends who work with him makes him even prouder.

Siljestrom started the Pompano Grill in 2000 with his brother Dewey, who left to pursue other ventures three years later. Siljestrom now counts current partner Vicki Cooper as a strong part of the restaurant’s success, along with the presence and hard work of his sister, Pam Van Horn, who manages the front of the house; her two sons, Chris and Josh, who share cooking duties with Siljestrom; and people like Jen Monda, who’s been working here since it opened. It’s no surprise, then, that the Pompano Grill is a “family” restaurant in the truest sense of the word. It’s no surprise either that it’s something you feel as soon as you walk in.

“We try to cook with love and have fun in the back,” Siljestrom says. “We try to enjoy ourselves while we’re here, and I think all of that comes out in the food.” Above all, Siljestrom aims to give people an intimate, enjoyable evening and a feeling that they’re eating with him as part of his family.

Much has been made of the Pompano Grill’s relatively small size, but what it lacks in physical space is more than made up for by the largeness of its heart. In this kind of cozy atmosphere, imbued everywhere with the warmth of human touches you’d find in someone’s dining room, the food can’t help but be stellar. And it is.

Locally caught fish is as fresh as it gets here, and the many seafood entrées on the menu bear marks of Siljestrom’s culinary background. Sea scallops, for instance, are sautéed in brandy sauce, and his command of continental European fare shines brightly in his seafood crêpes, which are prepared from scratch (no easy task) with fresh fish, shrimp, mushrooms, and leeks in a delicate cream sauce. Salmon, grouper, swordfish, mahi, tripletail, cobia, pompano, and catch-of-the-day fish can be sautéed Amandine style, char-grilled, or blackened, and served with Béarnaise, Thai peanut, or Hollandaise sauce.

The Pompano Grill is just as renowned for its excellent “land” dishes — Veal Parmesan, Piccata, and Speidini, Chicken Cordon Bleu, and steaks, of which the au poivre and N.Y. strip are perennial favorites. A number of pasta dishes — including Capellini al Pesto and three-cheese Tortellini Alfredo — reveal Siljestrom’s mastery of northern Italian cookery as well. A discerning wine list and home-baked desserts from Wee Bee Baked Goods round out the choices.

What’s not on the menu though, is what you really come for — the opportunity, at least for an hour or two, to become part of Siljestrom’s family. It’s what makes the Pompano Grill the kind of secret you feel both proud and a little guilty divulging.

The Pompano Grill is located at 110 N. Brevard Ave. in Cocoa Beach. They’re open Thursday through Saturday from 5:30 to 9:30 p.m. Beginning in December, their hours will be Tuesday through Saturday from 5:30 p.m. to 9:30 p.m. through May. To make reservations (recommended), call 784-9005.

Goombay’s
• Tobin Bennison •

This summer has seen a fair share of speculation about the status of Satellite Beach’s Goombay’s.

Had it gone on extended hiatus? Had it closed for good? Suffice it to say that the Goombay’s so many knew and loved is back — and better than ever.

To be honest, we can’t say enough good things about Goombay’s latest, and what will prove to be its most enduring, incarnation. Guided by proprietor Robert “Bert” Acosta and managing partner John Carter, the new and improved Goombay’s now hews closest to its original ideals, of which the spirit of “Aloha” acts as a core force.

And anyone who truly understands the meaning of “Aloha” will know that it’s not exclusive to the Hawaiian islands. Here at Goombay’s, “Aloha” absorbs elements of all that is hospitable and pleasing wherever its owners have found it — in Latin, Central, and South America, New Orleans and the Southeast, and the Caribbean — and they all blend seamlessly with a local beachside ethos to create a welcoming feeling that goes beyond the desultory, pre-packaged smile you’ll find elsewhere.

As far as Goombay’s food goes, everything is flawless. Others are quick to boast about their use of fresh ingredients; few let their dishes speak that claim for themselves. Goombay’s creations do, and the proof, as it were, is in their justifiably vaunted shrimp and crab bisque.

In a way, their bisque is an encapsulation of Goombay’s high standards: cleanly fresh to the taste, both traditional and surprisingly new, flavor-wise, and generously chunky, and the result is a feeling that you’ve gotten far more than what you paid for. These characteristics apply to everything else on Goombay’s concise menu. It would have been easy for them to overextend themselves, but instead they’ve focused on making it all excellent, from their sauces to their tuna kabobs. The fine-tuned light touch is what they practice here, and the food tastes as simple and pure as it does refined.

Starters include a Blue Point jumbo lump crabmeat cocktail; teriyaki tuna bites and a beautiful tuna “rose,” which can be grilled, blackened, jerked, encrusted with sesame or peppercorn or served rare (all their fish is fresher than you’re used to tasting); macadamia coconut shrimp with a spicy apricot sauce; crisp crab or seafood eggrolls; a Blue Point jumbo lump crab cake (heavy on the crab; light on the breading); conch fritters; fantastic wings (10, 20, or 50); a shrimp cocktail or Shrimp Goombay. Several of these are good testers for their array of homemade sauces, among them: creamy remoulade, citrus teriyaki, spicy mango bbq, Thai chili, creamy cucumber, and honey mustard. Ingeniously, all work well with everything else on their menu.

Apart from the famous bisque and an inspired chicken and sausage gumbo, you’ll find six varieties of salads, each of which can be served with sun-dried tomato vinaigrette, creamy cucumber, ginger balsamic, honey mustard, or buttermilk bleu cheese dressing. We tried the hefty chicken salad, which is mixed with Granny Smith apples, walnuts and mayo served on a bed of spring mix greens. Their Caesars can be added to with chicken, steak, shrimp, tuna or mahi, prepared grilled, blackened or jerked.

Main dishes include sandwiches (chicken; steak; chicken salad; tuna; mahi; crab cake; veggie) prepared in a number of permutations on fresh baked bread; three types of po’ boys (lightly sautéed jumbo — and we mean jumbo — shrimp is a favorite); “sticks’ (kabobs) comprised of chicken, steak, shrimp, tuna or grilled veggies (again, grilled, blackened, jerked or prepared Montreal-style); steamed shrimp or clams, and tacos and popular combo meals.

Their flour-tortilla soft tacos are served with their original sweet corn cheese salsa, and can be filled with chicken, steak, shrimp, tuna, mahi or vegetables. One (as they state on the menu) isn’t enough — and they aren’t lying. These also make up part of the combo meals, which are comprised any combination of two sticks or tacos. They’re served with fresh fruit and a selection of sides like sweet rice and peas, hand-cut fries, veggies sticks, tri-color macaroni and cheese, and a mini-mix or mini-Caesar salad.

Anywhere’s a safe place to start, though. Goombay’s is easily one of our favorite casual eateries on the beachside scene right now.

Try it once and you’ll be back — guaranteed.

Goombay’s is located 306 Hwy. A1A in Satellite Beach, one mile south of Pineda Cswy. and the A1A intersection. They’re open Tuesday through Thursday from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m., Fridays and Saturdays from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m., and Sundays from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Goombay’s prides itself on being low-key and very family friendly. Outdoor seating is available, as is a special “Little Goomers” menu selection for kids. They’re also a great stop for excellent homemade desserts like an apple roll or brownie à la mode, Key lime cheesecake, and strawberry shortcake. Ask about their dessert of the day, and look forward to their famous pumpkin cheesecake through November. Fridays and Saturdays also see new dinner specials every week. Goombay’s offers wine and four draught beers, including Shock Top, Amber Bock, and a monthly rotating craft beer (Beck’s Oktoberfest will be featured through the end of October). Call ahead for take out — 779-2495.

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BEACHSIDE BARBECUE

You’d think that the last thing anyone would want to do in this infernal heat is stand over a hot grill flipping slabs of meat.

But that’s human nature for you. We’re as willing to sweat over a fire in 98-degree weather as we are to do a few early morning backstrokes in a frozen lake in the dead of winter. Logic? We toss that out with reams of sauce-stained paper towels while decrying everyone else’s wasteful ways. After all, it’s barbecue, and Americans love their barbecue as much as they love their freedom to do whatever they damn well please, logic or no.

Summer barbecueing has long been a favorite American pastime; you might even call it a seasonal obligation. But a hot summer is one thing; this blazing weather is something else entirely. While we’re sure that your grill skills are a force to be reckoned with, we encourage you to wriggle free from the sun’s searing grip and let these bona-fide barbecue joints do the cooking for you.

Memaw’s B-B-Q (600 E. Eau Gallie Blvd. in Indian Harbour Beach; 779-9670; www.memawsbbq.com), one of the earliest arrivals on the local barbecue scene, opened in the late ’80s and has enjoyed a rabid following ever since. Current owner Bill Johnson, who purchased the eatery from the original owners in 2007, chalks Memaw’s success up to their made-from-scratch approach. “We are what you call a scratch kitchen,” he says. “With very few exceptions, everything we serve is made from scratch. We grind our own sausage and grind our own hamburgers from New York strip and ribeye steaks. All of our seasonings, including our sauces, are made from our own recipes.”

Memaw’s also pit smokes freshly every day over hickory and oak. “This is not the case with all barbecue places,” Johnson says. “The secret to good barbecue is not to rush anything. Only smoke and time will provide customers with our delicious meats.” Johnson also made it his mission to change nothing when he took over. “It’s risky to mess with success. Our recipes haven’t changed since the business originally opened. We have added some new items, but all of our core products are proven and successful.” Some of the more popular items here are their ribs and sliced pork, both served with sides and bread. Another favorite is their “Feast” entree, which consists of ribs, pork, chicken, beef, potatoes, beans, slaw, and garlic bread. It gives customers a good sampling of their meats and also happens to be a great value. “We consider our barbecue style to be Southeastern and for the most part, original,” Johnson explains. “Customers tell us that they’ve never tasted barbecue exactly like ours, and we attribute that to the fact that we take so much time in preparation and buy only quality products.”

Almost directly across the street, Charlie & Jake’s Bar-B-Que (445 E. Eau Gallie Blvd., Indian Harbour Beach; 777-7675; www.charliejakesbbq.weebly.com) draws an equally devoted crowd. Begun by native Alabaman Charlie Johnson in 1989, Charlie & Jake’s is now managed by Charlie’s daughter, Lindsay Richer. Lindsay has been working here on and off since she was a kid, but she took over full-time six years ago so her father could retire. In keeping with Charlie’s original vision, this well-attended spot prepares true Alabama-style barbecue according to recipes handed down by Lindsay’s grandmother. “That means no sauce except what you put on it,” Lindsay explains. “We put a nice dry rub on the ribs and pork, and everything is smoked with hickory wood, much of it from North Carolina. All our meat is fresh and cooked on one of the two rotating smokers out back; it takes from a few hours to all night to cook our meats.”

Charlie & Jake’s also differs from many other barbeque joints in that it doesn’t serve sliced pork. “My Dad doesn’t believe it’s a good piece of meat to serve to our customers,” Lindsay says. “We do have a vinegar-based sauce, which makes it thinner than other sauces. Charlie believes that if you cover your barbecue in sauce you’re missing the point.” Regulars return for big sellers like pulled pork, crispy garlic toast, and fried pickles, but they also come back for the great service. “We are truly blessed by our employees,” Lindsay tells us. “Many of the ladies out front have been there for over five to six years. As for the cooks, they’re amazing. Long hours in a hot kitchen doesn’t appeal to many, but our guys are great.”

In private, some might dismiss Sonny’s Real Pit Bar-B-Q (2005 N. Atlantic Ave., Cocoa Beach; 868-1000; www.sonnysbbq.com) for its franchise status, but that doesn’t stop devotees from coming in droves for consistently stellar examples of barbecue. With restaurants across the southeast, Sonny’s blends a little from all the inclusive regional styles, but operating owner and general manager of this location, Ronnie Emmons, describes it as “just good Southern barbecue.” When we ask him to name a dish that sets Sonny’s apart from the rest, Emmons has a hard time pinning down just one. “Our pulled pork is very good, and we recently added a new sliced beef brisket, which has become my favorite. And everyone loves the baby back ribs; they fall off the bone. Not to mention the sweet sauce… That stuff makes anything taste better.” As for Sonny’s barbecue method, they smoke their meat for hours in their own basting sauce according to a technique that’s made them one of the most trusted names in the business.

But people also like the family-friendly atmosphere of Sonny’s. Emmons started working here when he moved to Cocoa Beach in 1993. “My mother owned the store at that time,” he says. “I met my wife here; she was a server. In 1998 we moved to Stuart, where we managed two Sonny’s, one there and the other in Port St Lucie. In 2001 we moved back to Cocoa Beach and bought this store from my mother.” Emmons cooks and handles all the day-to-day operations and his wife manages the front of the house, while each of their four children works here in some capacity. “Our son is a kitchen manager at night, our oldest daughter worked for us until just recently, our other daughter still works for us waiting tables, and our youngest daughter has spent some of her summer break bussing tables. We are truly a family establishment,” Emmons says proudly.

Slow & Low Bar-B-Que (306 N. Orlando Ave. in Cocoa Beach; 783-6199; www.slowandlowbarbeque.com) has earned far-flung praise for its succulent barbecue since opening in 2004. Meat prepared by its titular method — snail’s pace cooking time at a low and steady temperature — is counted by many to be some of the tastiest in the area. Owners Joel and Nicole Smith specialize in hickory-smoked pork, chicken, beef, and turkey, as well as St. Louis-style ribs, so called for their more uniform cut. “Most ribs taper off when cut traditionally,” Nicole explains. “Our baby backs and slabs are more even, which gives you more bulk and meat than you might be used to.” Thanks to two constantly operating smokers — one 1,000-pounder and another 500-lb. capacity — Slow & Low has the ability to cook 1,500 pounds of meat a night, if needed. As for their overall style, Nicole categorizes it as Alabama-influenced. “That means that we use a lot of hickory and vinegar-based sauces,” she says.

Slow & Low is known for its excellent pulled pork and baby back ribs, but they’ve also earned a reputation for being community-minded and very family oriented. Wednesday Family nights feature dinner specials, a magician, face painting, and a visit from their porcine mascot. Slow & Low is also the only barbecue joint in the area that offers a full-liquor outdoor bar and live entertainment. But a compelling lure is their recently instituted 6-lb. Crazy Pork Challenge, a challenge only three have accepted (and failed at) thus far. If you can eat a special 6-lb. sandwich comprised of pulled pork, coleslaw, onions, cheese, and pickles slathered in their special cold white barbecue sauce, it’s free of charge and your photo will grace their currently blank Wall of Fame.

All of these places all have mastered some tried-and-true techniques, and they just might teach you a thing or two about how to modify your own barbecue method. So get out of the sun and give them a try. As different as each place is, they all share a common respect for this sacred and very American culinary art. They’ve also got ice-cold air conditioning.

The Shark Pit Bar & Grill
• Tobin Bennison •

For all our easygoing, open-minded reputation is worth, beachside residents can certainly be a prejudiced bunch, especially when it comes to how far we’ll go for a good meal.

For the majority of us, a hungry drive to the mainland becomes a begrudging sojourn that usually ends at one of the many reliable, albeit characterless chains. Limited beachside, and all safe options exhausted, the last place we’d look for sustenance is in a hotel, much less one that’s hidden under the garish tourist towel thrown over the east side of A1A and 520. But we’d all do well to take a cue from the scores of seasoned travelers who know that some of the best kept dining secrets are where you’d least expect to find them.

Right under our collective nose, on the ground floor of the Four Points Sheraton/Cocoa Beach Surf Company building, is the Shark Pit, a restaurant that’s enjoyed some degree of local popularity, yet is still given short shrift by a number of doubters put off by its corporate veneer.

The reality is that while it is the Sheraton’s official restaurant/bar, in keeping with the Four Points brand, the casual, family-friendly Shark Pit is given a considerable amount of leeway in regards to its menu and design. As far as atmosphere goes, the Pit has to be one of the most appealing hotel restaurants within the designation. In fact, everything about it embraces locality and uses its edge as a showcase for Cocoa Beach’s draw as a surfing Mecca to appeal to both visitors and devout locals.

Decorated with rare, and very local surfing memorabilia, the Shark Pit enlightens tourists and heartens longtime residents with its respect for authenticity and regional history. In spite of its 14 televisions, the Shark Pit’s atmosphere is also surprisingly subdued. Thanks to the vaulted ceilings, the ambient sound is diffused enough to allow intimate conversation. Across from the thatched, full liquor tiki bar is the eatery’s claim to fame — a cylindrical tropical aquarium where guests and diners can witness shark feedings every Saturday at noon — but the Shark Pit’s true centerpiece is its large brick oven, in which its famous hand-tossed pizzas are baked to crispy perfection.

There are nine varieties offered — everything from the Florentina (spinach, artichoke, bacon, Portabella mushrooms, mozzarella and Alfredo) to a Hawaiian and a popular shrimp scampi-topped pie. We had the fresh tomato basil pizza, and loved it for the light, refined flavor that still managed to fill. We also tried their fish tacos (by far their biggest seller) with house-made chipotle mayonnaise, a grilled mahi-mahi salad (with roasted almonds, sweet onions, and Mandarin orange dressing), garlic pepper-seared tuna, and the Mahi Rockefeller, which is topped with spinach, bacon, and cheese.

The Shark Pit is also known for its wraps, sandwiches and burgers, all of which feature a signature twist. Their club, for instance, is served on a Kaiser roll with hickory-smoked bacon and a delicious red pepper aioli. All of their burgers are made with Black Angus beef, and can be prepared with Swiss, Asiago, mozzarella, provolone, and, wonderfully, goat cheese. There are over 12 appetizers to choose from and five salad selections (including a generous taco salad filled to the brim), and proper entrees range from a 10-oz. bourbon-glazed pork chop to baby back ribs, and hefty crab cakes with a mustard tartar sauce.

But what sets the Shark Pit above similar hotel restaurants is the fresh, clean flavor of its food. Only the highest quality ingredients are used, and equal attention is paid to both the main item and its accompaniment. The waffle fries that came with the fish tacos were virtually greaseless, and the sweet pepper rice served with our mahi entree was cooked perfectly. Thanks to personable general manager Billy Slone and a dedicated crew, the Shark Pit should have no problem winning over wary locals.

“The stigma of being a restaurant in a hotel is really hard to overcome,” Slone told us. “Locals will usually avoid it. But I think it’s a matter of people just coming in accidentally, trying it out, liking it, and telling their friends. There are people who have lived here their whole lives who’ve had no idea this place was here.” The Shark Pit’s laid-back atmosphere and Thursday “Native Nights,” which offer $3 you-call-it mixed drinks and an $11.95 pitcher and cheese pizza special, have already begun to remedy that issue.

Yet of all the Shark Pit’s charms, its ability to make you feel simultaneously at home and on vacation yourself is what makes it worth discovering and revisiting time and time again.

The Shark Pit is located at 4001 N. Atlantic Ave. in Cocoa Beach, on the ground floor of the Four Points Sheraton/Cocoa Beach Surf Company Complex. Ample visitor parking can be found in the adjoining multi-level parking garage, but it’s easiest to turn onto Brevard Lane just south of the building where you’ll find the outdoor parking lot. The Shark Pit is open from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Sunday through Thursday, and closes at midnight Friday and Saturday. They’re also open for a $7.95 breakfast buffet from 6 a.m. to 11 a.m. on Saturdays and Sundays. They offer loads of drink specials throughout the week and hold Happy Hour 7 days a week from 7 p.m. to close. You can watch virtually every sports event broadcast thanks to their 12 receivers and Direct TV access. Take out service is available as well as curbside delivery and a special kids menu is available on request. Call them at 783-8719. You can also view their entire menu online at: www. cocoabeachsurf.com.

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Sun On The Beach
• Tobin Bennison •

Taken at face value, there’s not much to distinguish Sun on the Beach from other east coast Florida diners, hundreds of which pepper the shore that stretches from Fernandina Beach to Key West.

You’ll notice that it is closer to the ocean than most independently owned diners — it is, in fact, one of two with ocean views between Cocoa Beach and Vero — but beyond that, everything about its outward appearance hews to the common model, from its bright, colorful atmosphere down to its sand-flecked welcome mat.

Walk in, and everything continues according to plan. Over there sit a family of tourists in the booth behind an elderly couple, and up at the counter hunch a trio of local surfers in damp, briny baggies. You’re going through your options well before you’ve even chosen a table or seen what they serve, so routine does the process seem.

Apart from the few seafood inspired twists on breakfast and lunch standards you shrewdly expect, the menu, you reckon, will have at least 15 dishes you’d find in any similar eatery, so you flip through the one you’ve been proffered in keeping with accepted form. You see some old friends — ham and eggs, the BLT, the Denver omelet… But what’s this? Cajun fried soft-shell crab? Andouille hash? Pea-crab fritters?

Lots of Florida diners augment their menus with Southern staples, but scant few offer much beyond a smattering of grits, gravy and biscuits, and country fried steak. Sun on the Beach, however, makes authentic, home-cooked Lowcountry inspired food its special focus. Since 2005, this place has ben a favorite of locals, and it’s not hard to see why.

Owned by the Black family — Gil and Parthenia and their sons, chefs Seth and Kent — Sun on the Beach also doesn’t skimp on disarming hospitality, an key ingredient in every Southern recipe, from cornbread to she-crab soup, just one of their daily house specialties. What’s more, everything here is given a gourmet touch, both in terms of flavor and presentation. Their cooking then, is best described as Southern gourmet.

The Black’s cumulative culinary experience is impressive. Seth and Kent’s grandparents were skilled cooks, and the boys grew up learning to prepare dishes in their parents’ “country kitchen” soul food deli back in Georgia. In 1984, the clan moved to the Keys to run a popular fine dining restaurant. It was here that the brothers began to incorporate local seafood into their family recipes. A later move back up to South Carolina saw Kent experimenting with elements of that area’s Lowcountry cuisine. All these factors meld beautifully with the Black’s love of entertaining. It’s in their blood, and it has rubbed off on each member of their staff.

While Sun on the Beach is a great place for traditional breakfast and lunch dishes, the real reason for it loyal patronage stems from several mouthwatering diversions. Shrimp and grits is a given, but where else can you order real, stone-ground grits with soft-shell crab or crawfish and andouille sausage?

Regulars will also attest to the excellence of staples like biscuits and gravy, served with either sausage or creamy chipped beef gravy. Fourteen types of omelets are, like everything else here, made to order. There’s a Cajun (with andouille, rice, and crawfish), the Indian River (mahi, blue crab, and veggies with pepper jack cheese), an Alaskan (house smoked salmon, asparagus, capers, tomatoes, and artichoke hearts with dill cream cheese), and the Lowcountry, filled with shrimp, blue crab, tomatoes, mushrooms, and cheese covered in a spicy Hollandaise. To top it off, so to speak, eight sauces are offered (among them Key lime cream, green chile Hollandaise, Gorgonzola, and roasted red pepper cream) and a build-your-own option with over 15 fillings to choose from.

The Blacks are also known for their stellar Benedicts, of which there are no less than 12 varieties. There’s a Greek (lamb, spinach, tomatoes, and feta), a Munich (with German fried potato salad and wiener schnitzel), the Key West (cracked conch in a Key lime cream sauce), and a crab cake Benedict, one of their more popular items. But by far, Sun on the Beach’s most beloved and representative dish is its Gullah Benedict, served with fried green tomatoes, shrimp, and spicy Hollandaise. Those in search of pancakes won’t be let down, but are strongly urged to try the fresh crepes, particularly the tasty shrimp pesto.

If lunch is what you’re after, Sun on the Beach six kinds of salads, including a blackened or grilled fresh catch (tossed with greens, tropical fruit, and nuts) and a delicious Carolina Cobb. The appetizer roster features cracked conch fingers served with mango chutney, fried green tomatoes or pickle spears, a Lowcountry shrimp cocktail (topped with a blood orange balsamic reduction), black-eyed pea and crab fritters with peach horseradish sauce, and smoked Gruyère and ricotta balls rolled and fried in panko breadcrumbs.

You’ll also find burgers, of course, and a selection of hot lunch entrees and sandwiches made with ingredients like soft-shell crab, cracked conch, jerk chicken, and filet mignon with fresh avocado, Gorgonzola, mushrooms, and basil aioli. Their grilled paninis are also a big hit; choose from the ribeye, Hawaiian chicken (it features ham, pineapple, toasted coconut, and Swiss cheese), a veggie option, the Stuttgart (schnitzel, red onions, apples, bacon and Fontina), and the mahi-packed Gulf Stream topped laced with Key lime aioli.

It’s said that the further north you go in Florida the more Southern it gets. With satisfying cooking like this, Sun on the Beach erases that contrived border and brings the South back down to where it truly belongs.

Sun on the Beach is located at 1753 A1A in Satellite Beach. They’re open 7 days a week from 6:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. (Enthusiastic regulars have been clamoring for the Blacks to open for dinner, but complicated city zoning rules keep the idea grounded.) Sun on the Beach is available for special events — weddings, rehearsal dinners, meetings, and reunions with available outdoor, ocean-view seating — and catered banquet packages are available as well, either on- or off-site. The Blacks can tailor a special menu according to your tastes. Call 777-9483 to learn more. You can view their menu online at: www.sotbfl.com.

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Rubio’s Cuban Café

Given the rich cultural history of Cuba, a tangled mélange of African, Spanish, Latin American, and Caribbean influences, “refinement” is probably the last word you’d expect to hear associated with its cuisine.

Cuban food is, both by historical precedent and economic necessity, a confused blur of flavors, marked by abundant spice, thick sauces, numerous sandwiches with identity crises, and slowly simmered, rib-sticking stews. But when you go to Rubio’s Cuban Café (on the site of the old Mr. Cubano) in Cape Canaveral, you discover a different, frequently buried facet of the island’s cooking style, one characterized less by traditional augmentation than by a kind of culinary archaeology, a peeling away of flavors that uncovers rich veins of authenticity.

Tapping into his roots, owner/chef Javier Gonzalez emphasizes largely forgotten aspects of Cuban cookery that were in existence well before the corruption of outside influences, American among them. Both in terms of portion size and taste, Javier’s dishes reminded us of Spanish cooking, their clear delineation of flavor similar to the tapas one finds from Bilbao to Cádiz.

We mentioned this to Javier during our visit and were surprised to hear him describe his background as “half Cuban, half Spanish.” The Spanish comes from Javier’s paternal side, while the Cuban stems from his mother Olga’s family, the Rubios. Though Javier admits he was never allowed in the kitchen while his mother was cooking, he describes himself as always peering curiously over the counter to watch her at work. Years later, when he started cooking for himself, he found himself frequently phoning both his mother and his sisters for advice on how to recreate the masterpieces he remembered from his youth. In recreating these beloved family recipes for Rubio’s, Javier also pays homage to his Spanish blood by adhering to that culture’s cooking principles — the use fresh, seasonal ingredients and the avoidance of all artificial enhancements and flavors.

Rubio’s food is still Cuban, make no mistake, but entirely free of the slapdash, crock pot mentality fans may be used to. Those fed by Miami- or Tampa-based “authentic” dives might be surprised at first Javier’s unique approach to cooking, but by meal’s end they’ll be won over by its refreshing warmth and ingenuity. However, “refined” in this case shouldn’t suggest high-minded exclusivity or gimmicky gourmet flourishes. Despite its similarly refined, modern décor (courtesy of Javier’s hand-built tables and upholstery work), Rubio’s still embraces the Cuban tradition of affordability and family-friendly, hands-on service.

A selection of Rubio’s signature dishes, coincidentally both his and his customers’ favorites, bears this strategy out — beef empanadas (made on site by Javier); tasty black beans and rice; an excellent Cuban sandwich (with pulled, roasted pork marinated in homemade mojo); fried maduros (sweet plantains); ropa vieja; a sour orange-marinated palomilla steak seared to tender perfection, and camarones al ajillo (shrimp sautéed in Spanish olive oil, garlic, and lime). The shrimp in particular were something entirely different — and far more delicious — than we’re used to. The sauce, while thick and piquant as it should be, was also surprisingly delicate, each flavor as detectable as if we were reading the recipe note card. Likewise, the amazing pulled pork that graced the Cuban (a good mixture of satisfying chunks and thin strands) suggested the intricate flavors of a mojo that could have only been conceived from generations of care and love. Sour orange is the not-so-secret ingredient in the tender palomilla, and its presence is a contained whisper rather than a startling shout.

In keeping with the Cuban tradition of abundance of choices, all variations on a binding theme of ingredients, Rubio’s menu is too vast to list in its entirety here. We recommend grabbing the take-home paper version of it for safekeeping. Each item deserves at least one try, and we’re tempted to attack the task, though doing so before 2011 might prove difficult. Appetizers include Javier’s crisp empanadas (filled with either beef, chicken, or fish), ham croquetas, tamales, papas rellenas (potato dumplings stuffed with seasoned ground beef), and yuca fries served with garlic mojo. There’s also a selection of soups and salads, and a number of side dishes (including maduros and tostones) will enhance any dish.

All entrées are served with rice (white, yellow, or moros), black beans, and plantains. The beef (carnes) section includes a breaded palomilla (palomilla empanizada); picadillo (ground beef cooked in a Cuban Creole sauce with wine and raisins); a Cuban beef stew; steak Milanesa (topped with marinara sauce and melted cheese); tender oxtail in a spicy red wine sauce; boliche (eye round stuffed with Spanish sausage), and one of their more popular items, ropa vieja. There’s also roasted pork, flat iron-seared pork chops, and masas de puerco — fried tender pork chunks served with mojo and sliced onions.

Rubio’s offers seven chicken dishes (including the classic arroz con pollo, and chicharrones de pollo) and four seafood dishes (like mahi filet grilled in mojo, Creole or garlic sauce, and blackened or breaded), all of which are excellent, but Javier’s 16 sandwich varieties are something to behold. Made with authentic Cuban bread (fetched throughout the week from Tampa) and pressed crisply, all of these sandwiches are worth repeated visits. Along with the Cuban and media noche (served on a sweet bread roll), there’s the hard-to-find Elena Ruz (cream cheese, roast turkey, and strawberry marmalade), named after its originator, a famous Cuban socialite from the ’30s. You’ll also find the choripan (flat iron-seared chorizo and onions), chopped flank steak in a Creole sauce with Swiss cheese, the mahi sandwich, pan con picadillo, and pan con ropa vieja. Dessert lovers will revel in Rubio’s tres leches, homemade rice and bread pudding, an array of Cuban pastries, and vanilla flan. Also on hand are Cuban batidos (shakes) — mamey, mango, papaya, pineapple, guava, and wheat (trigo).

We also highly recommend a breakfast visit to Rubio’s, where among more traditional American fare, you’ll find some of Javier’s Spanish-style three-egg omelets. Firmer and fluffier than garden variety omelets, Javier’s versions (there are 6 types) include a Basque style (with chorizo, yellow onions, and potatoes), a plantain omelet, and a create-your-own. Two breakfast selections, the Beachside (two fried eggs over black beans and white rice with toast) and the Riverside (two fried eggs over black beans and grits), were created for loyal customers. The French toast is made with Cuban bread, which lends it a heartier texture, and there are a wealth of side dishes and coffee beverages to choose from.

For a pleasant shift in perspective, give Rubio’s a try. If you’re like us, you’ll find it’s everything you expect from Cuban food — and something much more.

Rubio’s Cuban Café is located at 6550 N. Atlantic Ave. in Cape Canaveral. They’re open Monday through Saturday from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. and Sundays from 8 a.m. to 3 p.m. Breakfast is served until 11 a.m. Monday through Saturday and all day Sunday. Rubio’s is very family-friendly and offers a special children’s menu. Rubio’s enjoys a high rating on TripAdvisor; Javier and staff welcome feedback and candid comments. Rubio’s is also available for private events and fully equipped for off-site catering services for all manner of gatherings and events. Call 24 hours ahead to arrange and plan a meal with Javier. Take out and delivery (within a limited range) service is offered as well. Call 799-2200.

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Concepts On Highland

If there’s one overriding problem with the current state of much contemporary cuisine, it would have to be its reliance on intellectualized “concept” over actual delivery. Add to that some insufferable, self-important chefs, and you’re left with some highly photogenic dishes that aren’t so much meals in the traditional sense as they are transient, edible trends.

But one of the newest additions to the increasingly vibrant Brevard dining scene, downtown Eau Gallie’s Concepts on Highland, turns the “concept” concept on its ear by embracing not one, but several. There’s a lot to be said for Concepts’ very name, one that intimates the embracement of plurality and adaptability rather than one limiting theme. Guided by chef/owner Grant Heaslewood, Concepts on Highland aims to wither the cliché of chefs being arrogant, all-knowing maestros and diners as rubes who should count themselves fortunate enough to sample their masterpieces at a punishing price.

And as good as Concepts’ food is, it’s really Heaslewood who deserves the limelight. Born in Wimbledon, England, Heaslewood moved to Virginia at the age of three, and got his first taste of restaurant work 12 years later. When he turned 18, he began working with Clyde’s Restaurant Group, and with their support attended Gaithersburg, Maryland’s L’Academie de Cuisine before striking out on his own as head chef at The Addison on Amelia, Florida’s top-rated bed and breakfast. While he’d been back and forth to Florida throughout his 20s, Heaslewood decided to settle here to open Concepts just six months ago.

As Concepts on Highland’s chef, Heaslewood exhibits both the personability of a small-town diner cook and the exacting tongue and eye of a Michelin-rated chef de cuisine. This uncommon mixture of approaches comes out in the versatility of Concepts’ menu. Unlike many chefs, Heaslewood welcomes criticisms, special requests, and substitutions from his clientele, and often encourages them, especially if they enhance their dining experience. For him, cooking is an ongoing learning process, a discipline that accepts a passion for tradition, experimental finesse, and an openness to new ideas in equal measure. Above all, he’ set on enticing customers back to share his love of good food prepared on-the-spot with the freshest ingredients available.

So this food, then? Simply stellar. Apart from their affordability, the dishes show a melding of flavors that are as familiar as they are astonishingly new. This is not will-nilly fusion for its own sake, but considered complement fashioned by years of experience and customer-driven feedback. Take one of Concepts’ most popular dishes, the grilled 12-oz. Kobe N.Y. strip, sweet-and-sour chili glazed with rice pilaf, Thai cucumber salad and orange-soy aioli finished with crispy wontons. Another favorite item, the seared Atlantic salmon, pulls out all the stops for an incredible burst of flavor. It’s served with herbed rice pilaf; sautéed spinach; cherry tomatoes; Kalamata olives; capers; lemon zest; fresh herbs, extra-virgin olive oil, and a sweet balsamic glaze.

Other creations on April’s menu (Heaslewood adapts them to reflect the changing seasons) are veal and shrimp (sautéed with roasted shallots, fresh vegetables, and served with mashed potatoes in a tomato demi-glaze); grilled filet mignon (with potato croquette, roasted shallots, sautéed vegetables and served with a compound butter, bleu cheese, or au poivre style); the herbed chicken breast with grilled peach and basil chutney; walnut-crusted pork loin with spiced butternut squash and apples and pears; blackened mahi-mahi with pineapple salsa topped with lump crab meat and buerre blanc) and Meunière-style soft shell crab, sautéed in butter, lemon, white wine and parsley.

The appetizer selection is even more indicative of Heaslewood’s ingenuity. Things like red bell pepper hummus (with Mediterranean relish and pita chips); shrimp and brie samosas (with pineapple salsa and lemon-garlic crème fraiche); seared sashimi-grade tuna, and a wide range of soups and bisques of the day (each made daily) rely on interesting flavor pairings and Heaslewood’s demand for only the highest-quality ingredients. The classic remoulade that accompanies his Maryland crab cakes, for instance, is built with shallots, capers, parsley, Dijon mustard, and gherkins — not overly brined pickle substitutes.

Salad choices include their famous House-style (mixed greens with slivered shallots, cucumbers, and cherry tomatoes tossed with toasted pine nuts and a Dijon-chardonnnay vinaigrette), a Caesar, and Concepts’ signature spinach salad adorned with shallots, dried cranberries, toasted walnuts, apples, and a generous round of fried goat cheese. April’s lunch menu also features their excellent House burger (with bleu cheese compound butter); a tuna salad wrap; Concept’s Maryland crab cake sandwich; grilled chicken and brie; a vegetable pita and Meunière soft shell sandwich.

Whichever dish you order, each can be suited to individual tastes or blended with other interest-piqueing ingredients. As concepts go, Heaslewood’s is one of the more practical lately employed. And through him, Concepts on Highland’s refreshing principles pluck the dining experience out of the rarefied ether and put it back in the hands of the hungry customer. And while it’s a concept a celebrated few might find hard to wrap their heads around, for the rest of us, it’s as easy to grasp as a knife and fork.

Concepts on Highland is located in historic downtown Eau Gallie at 1437 Highland Avenue. They’re open for lunch Monday through Saturday from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. and serve dinner from 5 p.m. to 9 p.m. Tuesday through Thursday, till 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Lunch starts at $8, dinner at $16. Tuesday through Thursday, enjoy a free bottle of wine with the purchase of two entrees. Concepts offers an extensive and very creatively-chosen wine list; bring your own favorite in if you wish — corkage fee is $8. On Fridays and Saturdays, enjoy a four-course meal (with the exception of the Kobe beef) and a bottle of wine for $95. Concepts on Highland offers a large private dining room for all occasions as well as catering service. Call (321) 610-7987 to make reservations.

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On March 13, Lori Wilson Park will be transformed into an international tasting village as part of the inaugural Cocoa Beach Wine & Food Festival.

Conceived by Cocoa Beach attorney Tony Hernandez III, the Festival has been three years in the making, and the result of his, Event Manager Matt Gunter and countless others’ tireless work to help showcase the best and most eclectic selection of food Brevard has to offer while helping fill local food banks. As a core organizer, Hernandez could be said to have had a leg up in its development, thanks to his impressive track record as a philanthropist, respected community leader, erstwhile restaurateur and cook, and an avowed food and wine enthusiast who runs a successful law office while juggling several pet causes at the same time.

With all this on his proverbial plate, Hernandez, initially inspired by an encounter with a young penniless family in search of food, enlisted the help of Craig Technologies and SpaceCoast Living to bring the community and the area’s finest restaurants together to combat hunger throughout Brevard County.

Proceeds from this year’s Festival will benefit Project Hunger, a local, grassroots organization that facilitates the disbursement of food to the needy through County food banks. With every $1 the Festival raises, Project Hunger can purchase $9 worth of food for local food banks.

Based on current call volume, and surely influenced by the recent economic downturn, Brevard can expect a 63% increase in requests for referrals to food assistance agencies this year. An estimated 33,000 Brevard residents are considered “food insecure,” and of those people, an increasing number are more likely to spend their limited funds on food than on utilities, medical needs, and rents and mortgages.

But what’s more striking to Hernandez is the lack of complementary staples in local food bank stocks. “There’s always something missing,” he explains. “There never seemed to be sufficient food on hand. There would be cereal, but no milk — or peanut butter and jelly, but no bread. And much of it is just canned.” On top of that, Hernandez says, there was a distinct lack of fresh, nutritious food to help complete well-balanced family meals, which provide vital checks against illness and another of his pet peeves, obesity. “One out of every 7 families doesn’t have sufficient nutritious food for household meals. And then there’s the cost of food in general. It’s much easier for low-income families to buy cheap, fast food than to buy fresh alternatives.”

“The community is overwhelmed with this problem. We can’t depend on the State or Federal Government to help. We have to do it ourselves,” Hernandez says. “We as a community have to bear the burden. We’re talking about children and people here.”

With that admirable goal in mind, the Cocoa Beach Wine & Food Festival will gather an ethnically diverse collection of 13 of Brevard’s most renowned chefs to prepare food samples from their respective countries of origin, which will be paired with wines selected by discerning sommeliers. Seven local seafood restaurants will also participate in the Festival’s Tasting Village, along with baker Linda Lopez of Cape Canaveral’s Bald Strawberry Bakery. Visitors will be given a wine glass for the event as well as a voting ballot, with the results of their favorite creations to be tallied up at the day’s end.

Representing China will be Chef Michael Lee of Yen Yen in Cocoa Beach, while Chef Chai of Cocoa Beach’s Siam Orchid will prepare delicacies from Thailand. An interesting inclusion on the Asian roster is Chef Peter Lin, whose Chameleon Fusion Bistro in Melbourne has won rave reviews for its fusion of European and Pacific Rim flavors. India will be represented by Chef Anil Vadaparambil of Melbourne’s Taste of India. Widely regarded as Brevard’s finest and most authentic Indian restaurant, Taste of India is also highly regarded throughout central Florida for its respect for fresh ingredients, nutritious preparation, and delicately nuanced flavors.

The distinctive, sunny taste of Jamaica comes courtesy of Cape Canaveral’s own Chef Trevor Dixon of Trevor’s Blue Toucan. Though Trevor is adept with a number of international cuisines, he’s earned local fame with the curries, rich sauces, and jerked specialties of his hospitable homeland. An Italian surprise comes in the form of Chef Brano Kunik of Cocoa Beach’s Brano’s Italian Grill. Though a relative newcomer to the local dining scene, Brano’s has quickly gained loyalty for both its adherence to Italian tradition and its courage to push the community gently beyond its pizza and spaghetti comfort zone with items like Veal Ercolano and Eggplant Rolatini. Greek Chefs Zacharias Ligerakis and Nick Poulos will bring the Mediterranean flavors of Cocoa Beach’s Zachary’s Restaurant to the Tasting Village.

The Festival also offers attendants a unique opportunity to experience one of the area’s largely undiscovered gems, Palm Bay’s La Estancia de Luisa. Chefs Lara and Francisco Lara enjoy a devoted, almost secretive following for their traditional Colombian cooking. Representing Cuba is Chef Javier Gonzalez of Cape Canaveral’s Rubio’s Cuban Café and Brazilian Chef Boaz DaCosta will enlighten guests with selections from his Brasas Grill based in Cocoa Village. Another interesting choice is the Festival’s selection of Chef Marlene Khouri. Her Cedars Café specializes in healthy Lebanese and Mediterranean cuisine. Chef Klaus Krause of Izzy’s Bistro will appear on behalf of Germany, and America will have a spot in the Village thanks to Chefs Nancy and Stuart Bortons of Malabar’s Yellow Dog Café.

In light of one of our community’s most defining geographical features, no local wine and food celebration would be complete without a strong showing of some of the area’s best seafood restaurants. Look for Chef Tomislad Saronja of The Surf; Chef Kevin Keller of The Fat Snook; Chefs Garry Bracken and Matt Calowell of Fishlips Waterfront Bar & Grill; Chef Jason Tavenier of Gregory’s Steak & Seafood Grill; Chef Clen Dunham of The Lobster Shanty; Chef Rick James of Rusty’s Seafood & Oyster Bar, and Chef Mark Stewart of Atlantic Ocean Grille.

After the International Tasting Village, which will run from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m., the Festival will continue with live music from local band MoGeetz from 3 p.m. to 5 p.m., followed by an award ceremony for the best food of the day. Amidst all this, guests can enjoy food vendors (including a fusion ice cream booth) separate from the Tasting Village; an ongoing interactive “Wine 101″ class; booths with high-end handcrafted silver jewelry, accessories, and cosmetics; a tap-equipped beer truck courtesy of the Florida Beer Company; giveaways and raffles; sand sculpture artisans, and a mid-day solo acoustic performance by Cocoa Beach’s own Jamming Joe. The day is capped off by a performance from Three Dog Night from 6 p.m. to 8 p.m.

Hernandez hopes this will be the first of many such Festivals to be bound together by a new theme each year. But for now, he has his sights set firmly on improving the lives of needy families with this important inaugural event. “We have to take responsibility and show what we can do as a community to tackle the hunger problem.”

The Cocoa Beach Wine & Food Festival takes place March 13 from 10 a.m. to 8 p.m. at Lori Wilson Park in Cocoa Beach, about 1 and 1/2 miles south of S.R. 520. Tickets are $75 and are available for purchase through Ticket Web (www.ticketweb.com), a link for which is also supplied on the Festival’s website: www.cocoabeachwinefooodfestival.com. Due to the nature of the Festival, attendants should be 21 years of age or older. Free Park & Ride Service will be provided from three parking locations: on 520 just west of Sunrise Diner, at Alan Shepard Park at the east end of 520, and at Sidney Fischer Park on the east side of A1A in the central beach area. Visitors will be dropped off at the Cocoa Beach Hilton parking lot, located at 1550 N. Atlantic Ave. Local hotels will also be offering overnight stay specials for the event. Check the Festival website for details.

Coconuts on the Beach
By: Tobin Bennison

When Punxsutawney Phil pokes his head out of his burrow this February 2 — Groundhog Day — there’s no telling whether he’ll see his shadow or not.

You’d think that the recent frigid weather would suggest a protracted winter, but we’re talking about weather — and we all know what a slave to certainty the climate is, much less to the whims of a somnolent varmint.

Portentous rodents and tricks of the light aside, one thing is sure: nothing can stem the tide of Spring Break, which has already begun for some obscure college somewhere, and with each passing year seems to extend well into the latter half of May.

Coconuts On The Beach is another institution that refuses to abide by quaint superstition, and for a goodly part of the year, Spring Break and Coconuts join hands to welcome both familiar locals and slathering strangers from across this great nation to the beach’s nexus for reveling in winter’s demise.

But what both these camps may not see coming is Coconuts’ revamped menu and refined atmosphere, which, while still suitably celebratory, now aims to apply a gleaming new sheen to an old Cocoa Beach standby. Even in the absence of annual spring festivities, Coconuts, owned by the local Artz family for some 30 years, promises fresh surprises for those who’ve grown weary of fried beachside fare.

Fried food has long been the scourge of local cuisine, and while it satisfies on a very immediate level, it fails to satiate the desires of an ever adventurous and curious public, concerned as much for their health as the state of their taste buds.

For us, the first signs of a Coconuts wind change came in the form of a tasty crawfish and corn chowder, piquant enough to ward off the lingering chill yet still light enough to suggest its eventual status as a year-round pleaser. Other surprises came in the form of enhanced appetizers — including coconut-crusted shrimp and seared sesame or Moroccan-style tuna, two of several new house favorites — and a host of revolving weekly lunch and dinner specials. Of these specials, their fresh fish items are sure to be the most popular. Along with their sushi-grade tuna, firm mahi and tilapia, lobster tails, shrimp, and lump crab feature in many of their new recipes.

Pasta, steak, and chicken are on hand, as are a range of sandwiches and burgers, including their “Black and Bleu,” a blackened Angus beef patty topped with bleu cheese and bacon.

Value, versatility, and constistency still hold sway at Coconuts though, and longtime regulars are enjoying the changes as much as visitors from afar. Coconuts’ bulky salads are just as beloved as their newer items designed with vegetarians, gluten-wary diners, and the more health-conscious in mind.

One of these is a delicious stuffed tomato, filled with chicken salad and fresh fruit. Making inventive use of tropical spices and flavors, these and other choices help lift typical beachside dining to a new level.

But what really draws people to Coconuts is their friendly devotion to the customer, wherever they may hail from. Kid and family friendly and equipped with both indoor and extended outdoor dining, Coconuts is also a year-round entertainment hub. Their remodeled outdoor tiki bar offers heaters for nippier evenings, and a new awning ensures excellent live entertainment rain or shine.

Spring break wouldn’t be complete without a wide selection of tropical drinks and specialty cocktails, and Coconuts rises to the demand with one of the most impressive drink menus in the county.

Enjoyed with excellent surf items (like their popular mango mahi — an 8-oz. filet served grilled, blackened or jerked, served over cuban-inspired black beans and rice with fresh mango salsa), salads, appetizers, and turf plates (like their Chef’s House Steak — blackened and grilled top sirloin served with garlic sauce, mushrooms, and roasted tomatoes), Coconuts is poised to raise the quality bar for other similar beachside eateries as well.

Whether you’re in town from Dayton or Daytona, or even if you consider Minutemen Causeway to be your main drag, rain, snow or glowering cloud can never stop the sun from shining over Coconuts On The Beach.

Coconuts On The Beach is located at 2 Minutemen Cswy. in the heart of downtown Cocoa Beach. Enjoy casual oceanfront dining, regular live music and entertainment Wednesday through Saturday, fabulous drink specials, and extended happy hour and food and drink specials throughout the Spring Break season. As you Spring Break headquarters, Coconuts also serves breakfast on Saturdays and Sundays, with a special continental breakfast menu on offer during spring. Check back with the Resident or ask them about their upcoming wine tasting program and community wine events. To find out more, visit this issue’s entertainment calendar section, call them at 784-1422, or go to www.coconutsonthebeach.com.

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One of my favourite customers from my bartending days was a man named John Phillips.

As a retired Philadelphia fireman who served during the ‘50s and ‘60s, you’d figure John would have some great stories about raging infernos, near-death experiences, and improbable rescues. But like many a modest veteran of tough work or battle — and very much in keeping with every fireman I’ve known — John never spoke about the bad stuff.

For John, the mundane events that unfolded during the interminable periods of waiting in the firehouse were far more interesting. His eyes seemed to mist over slightly whenever he mentioned his beloved firehouse, his home away from home where he shared meals, deep discussions, dreams, arguments, and juvenile practical jokes with friends that became more like family over the years.

I couldn’t help thinking of John during our recent outing to downtown Melbourne’s Firehouse Restaurant & Lounge, a place he’d have loved as much for its food and antique decor as for the way it came into being. The lifelong dream of volunteer firefighter brothers James and Matthew McNulty, the Firehouse satisfies on two counts: both for the unique atmosphere it evokes and for the exceptional food it provides.

Billing itself as “Melbourne’s First Real Steakhouse,” the dark and cozy Firehouse tackles one of the food world’s most aggressive conflagrations with the courageous zeal of its founders.

If you think religion and politics are thorny subjects for discussion, try bringing up the issue of steak the next time you’re in mixed company. You’d think it would be smooth sailing once the vegetarians shuffled off to the kitchen to do the washing up, but the clouds of dissent have only just begun to gather, for steak lovers the world over have very distinct and often opposing views on how it is best prepared.

Locals agree that the McNulty brothers have extinguished the blazing dispute with their own Firehouse, an homage to both their work and their favourite entrée, in all its forms. Another thing locals agree on is that the McNulty’s haven’t skimped on their other beefless dishes — a common pitfall for most steakhouses – as their well-balanced menu attests.

Firehouse appetizers are worth their own visit, with items like seared ahi tuna (served with wasabi crème fraiche); mussels (with white wine sauce, proscuitto, and caramelized onions); crab cakes; a caprese salad; Oysters Rockefeller; Peruvian ceviche, and more, including soups like lobster bisque and French onion, and some very popular salads. And yes, there is an excellent filet of beef carpaccio, topped as it should be with capers and shaved Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese.

Entrées like linguine and clams, brick-fired chicken, zuppa di pesci, fresh catch-of–the-day fish, lobster, stuffed shrimp, ravioli, and pasta primavera earn as much raves as the Firehouse’s specialty: hand-cut steaks and chops. Meat lovers will find just about everything here — two sizes of filet mignon (8- and 12-oz.); a 24-oz. bone-in NY strip; a 24-oz. bone-in ribeye; 26-oz. porterhouse; bone-in center cut pork chop; 16-oz. veal chop; rack of lamb, and several Firehouse special cuts.

What’s more, all entrées come with the option of some satisfying and well-prepared sides like creamed spinach, asparagus Milanese, baked potato, home fries, mashed potatoes, and seasonal vegetables. But what pleased us most was their selection of steak toppings, only two of which we were able to try, much to our deep regret. Along with a traditional Oscar and Béarnaise sauce are choices like Burgundy mushrooms; melted Gorgonzola; Sabrina sauce (spinach and jumbo crab meat topped with béarnaise), and an Asian-inspired aioli topped with shrimp and scallopscaled the Dynamite.

Lunch, served daily from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m., sees a special selection of steaks, entrées, and salads, along with six types of burgers and some delicious sandwiches. Additionally, the Firehouse is a great destination for a drink. Its full bar, apart from being classily attractive, is stocked with some hard-to-find bottles, and hours could be spent viewing the memorabilia while sipping on expertly-crafted Manhattans.

Wherever you go, you’ll find that everyone’s a steak critic. Whether the topic is optimal cuts, temperatures, techniques, or hardware, steak lovers seem to spend more time arguing about beef than they do actually enjoying it.

The way to end all dissension might be to stop reaching for an unattainable state of perfection and contenting oneself with the rare moments of excellence such as the Firehouse offers.

The Firehouse Restaurant & Lounge is located at 923 E. New Haven Ave. in historic downtown Melbourne. They’re open daily for lunch from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m., and for dinner from 4 p.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday through Thursday — 4 to 11 p.m. on Fridays and Saturdays. Their full bar is open until late starting at 11 a.m. daily. For more information, call 327-7919.

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According to the British Beer and Pub Association, Britain has seen the closure of 52 traditional pubs each week since mid-decade, and figures for the first six months of 2009 show that number increased by one-third.

To many, the pub is a solid cornerstone of English life, as integral to its collective identity as the red, double-decker bus, the phone box, bearskin hats, tea cozies, and thatched-roof cottages. Once beloved arenas of public discussion, encroaching modernization and changes in the way people socialize have found the hearth-warmed archetype ditched in favor of clinical wine bars, pre-packaged chain pubs, and American-style sports taverns. Of course, many still remain in the well-populated towns tourists are sure to frequent, but finding a pub that cleaves to the traditional idea of being a home away from home has become an increasingly difficult prospect on the sceptred isle.

But thanks to a diaspora of ex-pats like father-and-daughter team Peter and Jane Collett, the English pub as social hub and purveyor of reliable, hearty fare enjoys a second life on many a distant shore. For 23 years, the Collett’s Pig & Whistle has supplied Cocoa Beach with the kind of cozy warmth you expect from a real English pub, and to me, nothing says winter like tucking into one of their shepherd’s pies. Make no mistake: the Pig offers plenty in the way of drink, but it has also built its solid customer base on the food it serves. Their selection of dishes alone evokes feelings of wintry comfort: haddock and chips; sausage and chips; shepherd’s pie; pot pies; chip butties; mushy peas, and home-cooked roast beef sandwiches among them.

Now two years in its 240 N. Orlando Avenue location in the heart of downtown Cocoa Beach, the Pig & Whistle began life about a mile north in an incongruous shopping plaza, a location which, while not what you’d call particularly “traditional,” never proved to be much of an obstacle to those in search of English hospitality. The Pig’s new wood-framed digs are certainly more conducive to experiencing the enjoyment of a traditional pub, but the Collett’s ethos hasn’t changed since they first adopted their quaint name, which stems from an arcane, and thus quintessentially British, tradition. As their menu will tell you, the practice of whistling continuously while retrieving daily rum rations from barrels, or “pigs,” below decks ensured that Royal Navy midshipmen wouldn’t sneak sips while performing their duty. There are many English pubs, especially those in coastal areas, called “The Pig & Whistle,” but each, as the Collett’s show, is wonderfully unique.

Himself a Royal Navy veteran, Peter Collett began training as a chef at 16 in his hometown of Ascot, and prides himself on preparing all of the Pig’s food in-house. He knows that his haddock and chips will come out better than most because he takes the time to batter and fry them to order. This means that there may be a bit of a wait for some dishes, but when you get food as good as this, the gap is more than forgivable. Plus, the wait is made easy with a full-liquor bar and wide selection of draughts and bottles, including English staples like Strongbow, Newcastle, and Samuel Smith’s. This is a pub, don’t forget.

The practice of eating under the same roof where you’ve come to drink isn’t an exclusively English one, but there’s no doubt our cousins facilitate it better than anyone else. To that end, the Pig & Whistle’s menu, while somewhat Americanized, features reasonably priced, casual meals that go well with any of the beverages on hand. And in keeping with the pub’s open-armed spirit, families are always welcome to share in the warmth. All their food can be enjoyed either at the ample bar, in the dining room, or in their pleasant outdoor seating area. The Pig also does a brisk take-out business with their fresh sandwiches, burgers, and seafood entrees.

In addition to 5 or 6 daily specials, the Pig & Whistle’s menu features a host of appetizers (including a homemade soup of the day; salads; fried mozzarella; jalapeño poppers, and sausage rolls — English-style pork sausage baked in puff pastry), delicious 8-oz. Angus beef burgers (never frozen), chicken entrees, and an array of seafood dishes. The haddock and chips (served with mushy peas and coleslaw) is the Pig’s claim to fame, but their grilled fish salads and sandwiches, crab cakes, and shrimp and clam baskets are always popular draws. Generous sandwiches are also available: choose from roast beef; roast turkey; French dip with au jus; grilled ham and cheese; a great BLT, and others.

But the timbered exterior of the Pig & Whistle also suggests the presence of some traditional English fare, and on that count, the Pig delivers. Their beloved shepherd’s pie also comes as a curried version, and sausage and chips, pot pies, and chip butties (essentially french fry sandwiches) will please anyone hoping to add some Dickensian cheer to their holiday season. The pub as we once knew it may be on its way out across the pond, but the Collett’s Pig & Whistle keeps the spirit of the treasured institution alive and well beachside.

The Pig & Whistle English Pub and Restaurant (240 N. Orlando Ave.; Cocoa Beach) is open 7 days a week, 365 days a year until 2 a.m., with the kitchen serving until 1 a.m. every night. They open Monday through Friday at 8 a.m.; Saturdays and Sundays at 10 a.m. Christmas will find them open at 11 a.m., and New Year’s Eve will see a buffet and free champagne at midnight. The NFL, MLB, and NHL tickets can be enjoyed on 14 televisions, as can Setanta and Fox Sports channels. $7.95 fish and chip specials occur daily till 5 p.m.; $5.95 shepherd’s pies are served all day and night each Monday. Check their menu board for daily dessert specials. Happy Hour is held every day from 8 a.m. to 11 a.m. and 4 p.m. to 8 p.m., Monday through Friday, with $2 pints of draught Bud or Bud Light along with several bottle specials. Enjoy $2 shots each Tuesday; $2 Jägers every Saturday; and $10 buckets of domestic beer are featured each Thursday and Saturday. The Pig & Whistle is also equipped with a jukebox, video bowling, live Golden Tee, and a dartboard. For more information, or to call in orders ahead, call (321) 799-0724.

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They say you can’t go home again, but places like the Blueberry Muffin prove you can still get pretty darn close.

Like thousands of small, independently owned restaurants scattered all over the country, Indialantic’s Blueberry Muffin acts as a home away from home for individuals throughout its community and beyond. It’s a place where the spirit of home isn’t nearly as irretrievable as we’ve resigned ourselves into believing, and where feeding the soul is as important as satiating the stomach.

The very thing that binds the Muffin to other similar eateries is also, anomalously, the attribute that makes it so unique: the character of its owners. Here — despite their humble protests to the contrary — the Kokotis family makes Indialantic’s favorite restaurant a place where customers can bask in the kind of excellent, home-cooked food only unconditional love can produce.

The youthful and affable Bill and Anna Kokotis know that basic customer satisfaction is the cornerstone of their success, but they take the principle one step further by embracing each diner, whether new or regular, as one of their own. Customers who’ve been coming since the Kokotises purchased the Muffin in 1986 have watched their daughters, Anastasia and Antonia, grow up behind the counter, and Antonia and husband Tim’s recent welcoming of son Nathan is still met with the kind of temporal disbelief usually reserved for family reunions. One midwestern patron who comes to the Space Coast on business once a year claims that the promise of a meal at the Blueberry Muffin is always the one delicious palliative of a journey fraught with boredom and hard work, and his arrival is always treated as a homecoming.

Originally from Chicago, the Kokotises moved to Indialantic in 1985, lured by the pristine environs, solid school system and close-knit community. By the time of their arrival, the Blueberry Muffin was already established as the area’s go-to spot for breakfast and lunch, but Bill and Anna transformed it from a reliable workhorse into the cozy home away from home we’re all forever in search of. If you ask them, Bill and Anna will claim that “the universe” was on their side when they took over, but thousands of Muffin devotees simply chalk their success up to their engaging personalities and lovingly prepared dishes.

Emphasis on fresh, superior ingredients — like the wild Maine blueberries they use for their namesake and “Blueberry Patch” pancakes — elevate the Muffin’s food from standard fare to the meals you associate with family gatherings. Likewise, the light egg wash and brief dusting given to their battered haddock and chips make them some of the best we’ve had beachside. Airy and delicately crispy, the crust is more akin to filo than the doughy coating you’re used to experiencing.

Breakfast can be enjoyed all day at the Muffin, and daily, revolving specials feature different varieties of fresh-baked muffins and house-made quiches. Signature pancakes, served with creamery butter, are joined by fluffy French toast and hearty Belgian waffles, which can be topped with pecans, walnuts or fresh fruit. Classic egg combos (including hash or steak and eggs with the option of expertly seasoned, rough-cut home fries ) are balanced out by no-carb choices and fresh fruit plates. Carb-free omelettes are also on hand, along with a create-your-own option, which offers some welcome fillings like broccoli, feta, Mediterranean-inspired gyro meat and fresh shrimp. But the biggest breakfast draws have to be the Kokotis’ fantastic Eggs Benedict, Eggs Florentine and Maryland Crab Cakes Benedict, a unique combination of flavors Muffin customers count as an all-time favorite.

In addition to two daily homemade soups (one, like the popular tomato basil — made with ingredients grown by the Kokotises themselves — is usually a vegetarian choice), the Muffin’s lunch menu features several cooked-to-order entrees and a wide variety of burgers and sandwiches. Entrees like tender ahi tuna (served with fresh steamed vegetables), mahi mahi and wild salmon (all of which can be prepared either blackened or grilled and added to any one of their generous salads), reveal the Kokotis’ love of seafood, while the inclusion of old fashioned meat loaf; hot, open-faced roast turkey or roast beef (served with mashed potatoes and gravy); chicken breast topped with grilled mushrooms, onions and Swiss, and one of the best country fried steaks in the County offer nods to more traditional American recipes. All entrees come with a choice of soup, salad or vegetables.

Sandwiches (served on white, wheat, rye or croissant with sides like cottage cheese, fresh fruit, soup, salad, and cole slaw along with tasty fries and onion rings) are relegated into cold categories — including a number of hefty standards, as well as tuna, seafood salad and freshly roasted prime rib — and hot, of which the Monte Cristo is one of the more popular: deli-style ham and Swiss between two slices of French toast. There’s also a French dip with au jus; a 6-oz. grilled or blackened ribeye topped with onion rings; a mahi mahi or ahi tuna on a kaiser roll; grilled chicken; lamb or chicken gyros with delicious tzatziki; corned beef or pastrami Reubens; turkey or tuna melts; barbecue pork, and chicken or steak Philly-style hoagies. Burger choices happily include a patty melt with grilled onions and a healthy veggie burger served on a kaiser with a side of fresh fruit.

The Kokotises are also widely revered for their fresh-baked muffins, biscuits and whole pies, which is good news in light of the approaching Thanksgiving holiday. Expect apple; Key lime; “Chocolate Silk;” New York-style cheesecakes; a berry-laden “Fruit of the Forest” pie, and of course, their signature blueberry pie, packed full of Maine’s best. Special Thanksgiving pies can be ordered ahead in time for family feasts.

To many of us, the proverbial “home” of our childhood may be nothing more than a bittersweet memory. But it’s important to remember that home is also where the heart is, and the Blueberry Muffin stole ours with effortless ease.

The Blueberry Muffin is located at 1130 A1A in Indialantic and is open 7 days a week from 6:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. Call 725-7117 for take-out service and to order your Thanksgiving pies ahead.

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Roberto’s Little Havana

In Paris, it’s La Coupole. In New York, it’s the Russian Tea Room, and in London, it’s Rules. And to scores of locals and visitors, Roberto’s Little Havana is the similarly symbolic stomach of Cocoa Beach. And though some may argue in favor of other candidates, Roberto’s owner Roberto Barrial is, to many residents, the de facto face of the City.

Roberto Barrial isn’t a surfer, an engineer, or a local politician, but since he first opened Roberto’s doors in 1980, he’s influenced all of our lives through his beloved eatery. For nearly 30 years, Roberto’s Little Havana has served as the nexus of daily life in Cocoa Beach. It’s been the backdrop to heated political debate, civic discussions, avowals of love and heartbreak, and the scene of perhaps thousands of business deals, reunions, celebrations and gatherings. For many, it’s also been a trusted early morning haven after maybe one too many glasses of jubilation the night before. Whether you go in for one of those bracing breakfasts, a quick lunch or a leisurely dinner, you’ll always run into someone you know at Roberto’s. More often than not, that someone is a favorite server who welcomes you into the extended Barrial clan.

Barrial, who came to the area from Pinar del Rio in flight from the tumultuous Cuba of 1963, worked for several hotels and restaurants around town before opening Roberto’s on the site of the old Lynn’s Coffee Shop, just around the corner from City Hall in the heart of downtown Cocoa Beach. Starting out by serving strictly traditional American breakfasts, Barrial decided to test some of the traditional Cuban recipes he enjoyed throughout his youth after catering a Cuban-themed party in one of the dining rooms. The party — and the food he prepared from recipes handed down through generations — proved a resounding success, and in 1994, Barrial first introduced the Cuban menu that has since made he and his restaurant so famous.

Today, with his son Robert, Jr., and a garrulous staff peppered with friends and family, Roberto serves up traditional Cuban and Cuban-American-inflected dishes in homage to the food he grew up with back home. Cuban food is, at its core, simple stick-to-your-ribs fare. Yet despite its reputation as one of the least spicy of Latin American cuisines, what it lacks in comparative zing is more than made up for in deep, diplomatically subtle flavor.

Reflective of the fruits of a fertile land and ever-present economic constraints, Cuban cooking is an intricate improvisation on whatever happens to be in the cupboard. While many contemporary fusion-influenced chefs attempt to spruce up Cuban dishes with modern twists, the results are usually far from satisfying. It’s best to resign yourself to Cuban cooking’s blue-collar roots, the better to savor the rich shades of flavor at work, shades formed by a long history of indigenous peoples, Caribbean immigrants and European colonists.

If you haven’t been introduced to Cuban food — which, since its introduction here, has become as Floridian as key lime pie — there are over 150 items on Roberto’s menu to greet you. If you’re a longtime fan of the island’s fare, you won’t be disappointed by the wealth of obscure choices (like sea-fresh Spanish paella or the solomillo a la braza — deliciously marinated flame-seared flank steak), nor by the fabulous way they’ve been prepared. Put Roberto’s up against any august Miami or Tampa-based Cuban eatery, and it’s sure to come out on top. Many Cuban Americans claim that Roberto’s is as close you can get to Havana without running afoul of the law.

Cuban food would be nothing without sofrito — a kind of roux or masala — a salsa-like base of chopped onion, green and red pepper, garlic, oregano and ground pepper simmered in olive oil. It’s the scaffolding for many of Roberto’s dishes and, when paired with other secret ingredients, gives each item a character all its own. Here, sofrito informs nearly every choice — from fresh seafood dishes, beans and rice, and excellent pork and chicken preparations — but the most loyal devotees come for Roberto’s phenomenal steaks.

Bistec, usually a sirloin or flank steak, comes in many forms here, but a favorite is the palomilla: thinly-sliced, tenderized, marinated in a secret citrus-garlic mojo mixture and pan-fried to perfection. Roberto’s enormous bistec empanizado is another huge lure; breaded and pan-fried, it becomes a bistec milanesa when topped with ham, melted cheese, and an Italian-inspired tomato salsa. Boliche mechado (eye of round slices stuffed with chorizo and sautéed in tomato sauce) also has some loyal adherents, but none so devoted as the ropa vieja lovers. Ropa vieja (“old clothes” in Spanish), shredded flank steak simmered in sofrito and tomato sauce is prepared in much the same way as the ground beef that makes up the picadillo, yet worlds apart in texture and flavor. Many of these preparations are redesigned with chicken, not so much as concession to beef doubters, but for lovers of rich flavor and nuance. This same care is given to a wide selection of seafood, soups, sandwiches and stews, and even carries over to Roberto’s beloved traditional American breakfasts.

All proper lunch and dinner entrées (both for lunch and dinner) are served with a choice of white or yellow saffron-tinged rice, black beans or a soup of the day, and maduros or tostones. Maduros, sautéed ripe sweet plantains become crispy tostones when they’re taken green and pounded into flat disks and deep-fried. Yuca, a potato-like root vegetable, is a favorite of ours and just one of many on Roberto’s list of appetizers, which has recently been expanded to include papas rellena (beef-stuffed potato pouches), croquetas, and empanadas. A sample party platter serves five (or a hungry pair) with a sampling of four selections: croquetas, tostones, carnitas and yuca frita. Similarly, the lunch menu offers a “Classic Cuban Sampler,” which includes ropa vieja, roast pork a la Cubana and picadillo.

So, in the search of the soul of a place, it’s sometimes better to look beyond the garish facades and tourist-friendly claims to fame. The guides might direct you to the Pier or to the beach, but you need only follow the aroma of sizzling sofrito to find the city locals know and love. It’s at Roberto’s Little Havana, a true Cocoa Beach institution.

Roberto’s Little Havana is located at 26 N. Orlando Ave. in the heart of downtown Cocoa Beach. Roberto’s is open 7 days a week from 7 a.m. to 3 p.m. for breakfast and lunch. Dinner hours are Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday and Sunday from 5 p.m. to 9 p.m., and Friday and Saturday from 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. In addition to traditional desserts and a great selection of wines, imported bottles of beer, and sangria, Roberto’s offers several lunch and dinner specials daily. Call 784-1868 to place orders ahead for pickup or to find out about catering service. You can view their menu online at www.robertoslittlehavana.com.

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Since 1994, Gregory’s has been the place for steak on Cocoa Beach.

Countless locals and myriad returning visitors (thanks to Gregory’s attachment to the Ocean Landings Resort) trust Brigitte Krause, Head Chef/Owner Klaus Krause and Chef Jason Tavernier to provide them with some of the best-cooked steaks in the county.

Of all the world’s dishes, it seems none incites more passion than steak. If you’re Klaus and Jason, you have to assume that everyone who comes in is a steak “expert.” Steak lovers know how they like their steaks cooked from having cooked them themselves, usually after an extended period of trial and error or based on indelible memories various filets engendered during their lifetime. The problem is that it’s often too much of a bother to prepare steak for yourself once the hankering’s on you. What’s more, unless you have the number of a trusted butcher (it’s frequently filed in close proximity to that of your mechanic), it’s unlikely you’ll get a nice cut to begin with.

So what do you do? You set out to find someone you unfairly expect to fulfill all your unattainable steak desires, only to criticize the finished product (well after you’ve cleaned your plate, of course). No, I can’t think of a more thankless task than trying to please a crowd of hungry customers with my cooking. It takes far more mettle than I’ve got, so it’s not without some degree of awe that I regard Gregory’s — and Chefs Krause and Tavernier’s heroic reputation.

I noted this inevitable pitfall when interviewing them, and they humbly conceded that out of, say, 200 steaks they prepare to specification, about 1 or 2 come back to be re-cooked. Considering the persnickitiness of your average diner, this is an impressive statistic to say the least. But what’s even more impressive is that while Gregory’s reputation rests on steak, Krause and Tavernier apply the same attention to every other item they offer. So what you get, then, is not simply a great steakhouse, but a stellar restaurant whose success also hinges on the versatility and variety of its well-appointed menu.

This versatility also extends to Gregory’s fetching setting, a place that’s as old-world classy as it is unpretentiously casual. I, for one, have found Gregory’s to be a great spot for a number of different occasions: a romantic dinner for two; a treat for visiting relatives; a quick appetizer with friends before heading upstairs for a comedy show; and a large-scale employee Christmas dinner. Over the years, we’ve enjoyed the bulk of the dishes on their menu, but we’ve found that each deserves revisiting and new discoveries are always waiting in the wings.

Head Chef Krause, originally from Germany (as is mother and founder Brigitte and sister Jutta of Cape Canaveral’s Izzy’s Bistro), began learning his trade when Gregory’s first opened under their first chef, Victor. His Continental background and strict eye for detail helps appeal to the many European visitors who come to eat here. But he counts the quality of the meat Gregory’s chooses as the main factor in his success. Cocoa Beach native Chef Tavernier, for his part, began cooking here 6 years ago after studying at the renowned Cordon Bleu. Together, the pair oversee the cutting of their well-marbled Certified Angus Beef and make sure everything that comes out of their kitchen — whether it’s a 10 oz. House Filet (grilled and topped with a Guinness sauce and fried oysters) or Thai chicken dumplings — is of superior quality.

Tavernier himself credits his Vietnamese wife with turing him onto Asian flavors, and several items are given a Pan-Pacific flourish. Like those Thai chicken dumplings (served with a sweet chile sauce), Asian slaw accompanies their seared ahi tuna, just a few of the choices on Gregory’s starter menu. Others include garlic shrimp (served with a Cajun jerk sauce), escargot, a cooly fresh Caprese salad, and one of their signature dishes: the hugely popular Lobsteraki, five pieces of Maine lobster wrapped in bacon and glazed with rich teriyaki sauce. A selection of house-made soups and salads ensures that you’ll start your meal off on the right foot.

While they’re not the sole focus of Gregory’s menu, their steaks are too delicious to pass up. A wide variety of preparations are on hand here: the 12 oz. baseball-cut top sirloin; the New York strip (both 12 and 16 oz. cuts are offered); filet mignon (8 or 12 oz.) served with béarnaise, and Gregory’s 20-22 oz. Porterhouse. Teriyaki, Diane, peppercorn, black beer, Oscar or creamy cognac sauce can be added to each for a small charge. Other beef items make appearances on their list of house specialties — prime rib; the Delmonico ribeye (served on caramelized onions and topped with bleu cheese butter); steak Diane (with Dijon brandy sauce); steak tornados Oscar (medallions of tenderloin topped with crabmeat stuffing, asparagus and Hollandaise), steak au poivre (filet mignon prepared with a light brandy peppercorn sauce), as well as a traditional surf and turf option and “Land and Sea”: five broiled shrimp and a 12 oz. NY strip. Unique side dishes like asparagus and Hollandaise, twice-baked potato and sweet potato jack gratin make perfect accompaniments anything you order, but dinners come with a garden salad, fresh baked bread (a marvelous touch), and a choice of baked potato, roasted garlic mashed potatoes, wild rice, or french fries.

As much as we love Gregory’s steaks though, we’ve been finding ourselves more and more drawn by their great seafood selections. Among them, lobster tails; butterfly fried shrimp; salmon “in the weeds” (broiled over sautéed spinach with mushroom Dijon cream); fresh mahi mahi; a generous seafood platter; jumbo shrimp stuffed with crabmeat and scallops, and a seared, sesame-pepper sushi-grade tuna steak topped with a honey ginger glaze, stir-fried vegetables and jasmine rice. The best bet is their fresh catch, served broiled, char-grilled or blackened in two delectable styles: au Claire (a baby shrimp cream sauce garnished with lumpfish caviar) or St. Martin, which features a fruity mango citrus sauce.

Nightly specials include dishes like chicken Française, ruby-red carpaccio, pecan-crusted prok tenderloin, crabmeat-stuffed flounder, steak Cognac, burgundy beef tips and chicken teriyaki and Baguta (prepared with shiitakes, onions, garlic and tomatoes in a white wine cream) appear alongside pasta choices like shrimp scampi fettuccine and seafood Alfredo. Top any of these off with fresh-made desserts like Chocolate Suicide or Banana Split Cream Pie, or Key Lime, and you have the makings for several very reasonably-priced matches made in heaven.

But one of the best things about Gregory’s is the way it feels like it’s been around much longer than its 15-year lifetime. It’s an ambiance that doesn’t come easy, and a distinction that’s sure to see it through for 15 years to come.

Gregory’s Steak & Seafood Grille is located at 900 N. Atlantic Ave. in Cocoa Beach. They open nightly Monday through Saturday at 5 p.m.; Closed Sundays. The full liquor-equipped restaurant offers nightly chef’s specials and an Early Bird menu Monday through Thursday from 5 p.m. to 6 p.m. (excluding Holidays and special events). Ask about their “2 Dine for 49″ prix fixe menu. Their upstairs room above the restaurant is ideal for large parties, special events, banquets, weddings and fundraisers. Visit www.banquetsonthebeach.com for more details. Each Thursday, the upstairs becomes Gregory’s Comedy Club, featuring professional, nationally-touring comedians. The club provides full liquor service, a special late night menu, and preferred seating with dinner. Doors open at 7:30 p.m., shows start at 9. For more information on upcoming comedians, check this issue’s “Just for Laughs” section, or log on to: www.gregoryscomedyclub.com. To make dinner reservations or to purchase tickets, call 799-2557. Visit www.gregorysonthebeach.com to view Gregory’s full dinner menu.

In one of the most referenced, praised, and unread books in the world of literature, Marcel Proust’s “Remembrance of Things Past,” it’s the chance bite of a madeleine, a small, scallop-shaped cake, that spurs the author on a 7-volume rediscovery of his youth.

The episode proved so resonant that “a madeleine” has since become synonymous with any sensory agent that seems to magically evoke a flood of memories. I myself have several madeleines — the smell of geraniums, old Peter Sellers films, and Captain Crunch cereal among them — yet their real beauty lies not in the memories they awaken, but in their inherent latency. For each one you discover, there’s another that remains concealed, just waiting for some prosaic moment to rear its fantastic head.

Take the “Ace” I first bit into a few years back at Doubles Beachside in Indian Harbour Beach. Immediately upon tasting the heavenly combination of ham, capicola, salami, provolone and peppers laced with oil and vinegar, I was transported back to Hobbit Hoagies, a place I’d almost completely forgotten. We first stopped at Hobbit Hoagies during a childhood visit to my aunt and uncle’s in Tallahassee, steered in by the name and the sight of Bilbo Baggins brandishing his dagger in one hand and a plump sandwich in the other. It became tradition, even obligation, to eat our first meal there on every subsequent trip.

Later hoagies never quite replicated the subtlety of those flavors; the texture of their bread either too spongy or dry, and the atmosphere where you purchased them never as cozy. As time went on, I forgot about Hobbit Hoagies and even hoagies in general, having given them up as pale imitators of the ones I held so close to my heart. That is, until I tried Doubles’ versions. Suddenly I was 11 again (though considerably less spotty), free from care and at one with delicious discovery. It was a truly remarkable moment, but not nearly as remarkable as the one that was about to unfold.

You can imagine my shock when, during our interview for this feature, Doubles Beachside owner Ray Featherhoff revealed that he worked at the very same Hobbit Hoagies my family used to frequent — and may have may even served us during that era. This was a kind of madeleine within a madeleine, then; a new facet within a phenomenon wrapped up in a marvel. It was then that I began to realize that everyone who enjoys Doubles’ food might well be sharing that same experience of recovered memory. And surely new madeleines were being engendered in the many children there that day, perhaps to be forgotten as the years rolled on, then rediscovered in adulthood. The thought isn’t much of a stretch, because Featherhoff has built Doubles around the food he himself grew up on, and the effect seems to have rubbed off on all who count it as their home away from home.

Featherhoff got his start in the business working at the famous Peg Leg’s during high school, and later at Hobbit Hoagies while attending FSU. After graduation, his Hobbit co-worker and roommate enlisted Featherhoff to help him out with MASH Hoagies. After going their separate ways 27 years ago, Featherhoff opened the original Doubles across the street from its current location in front of the Lexington Hotel on South Patrick. At that original spot, Doubles quickly filled a gaping void for locals in search of quick, healthy sustenance, something it continues to do today. Featherhoff and his friendly staff have been here close to four years now, and all enjoy the enlarged 12,00 square-foot building, which offers space for two bars — a media-equipped sports bar and a more laid-back tiki bar that also sees live music performances every night of the week — and two dining areas, one of which includes a huge banquet room where many local teams gather after games and alumni from all over the county hold class reunions.

If there ever were a true, community-minded and family-friendly restaurant in the area, its Doubles. Enticed by a variety of sandwiches, wraps, wings and salads, people love the simplicity of its menu and the swiftness with which each healthy, fresh-tasting order is prepared. Hoagies are what Doubles is known for, but available styles, while adaptable according to taste, are kept to a refreshingly efficient minimum. Regulars count the Ace as a favorite, but each of the others — all made on a choice of white or whole wheat roll with mayonnaise; hot or sweet peppers; lettuce; tomatoes; pickles and onions — has its strong supporters. Any hoagie can be customized and ordered in a half-size, and particular affection is reserved for the generous veggie and new chicken salad hoagies.

Wings (served mild, medium or hot with optional teriyaki garlic sauce) are sold here by the boatload, as are wraps, Doubles’ famous racquet fries and nachos, daily-made soups and chili, and a selection of hot, grilled sandwiches, including burgers, meatball subs and a chicken cheesesteak, served with mayo, marinara sauce, and a tangle of grilled mushrooms, peppers and onions. Doubles also fills a niche for those in search of fresh, hearty salads available in small or large portions. I myself can’t count how many times I’ve been in search of one that doesn’t involve a lengthy wait. Here at Doubles, I’ve found exactly the kind of salad options I’ve been craving. Featuring a wide choice of homemade dressings (ranch, bleu cheese, fat free Italian, lite ranch, Greek and balsamic vinaigrettes), styles range from a generous garden, a Greek, Casear, and the excellent Havana: red cabbage; warm rice; cheddar; black beans and salsa; and sour cream and tortilla chips, with the option of adding jalapeño peppers and guacamole. What’s more, any salad can be topped with chicken or mahi.

Children are catered to with a selection of “mini-meals,” which include fries and a drink, and smoothies and frozen yogurt keep diners lingering well past their planned departure times. A selection of coffee drinks and desserts like fresh cheesecakes and pies have recently been added to the menu, but as we went to print, no authentic madeleines had joined the roster.

No matter, though. Everything at Doubles Beachside is guaranteed to produce that same magical madeleine effect.

Doubles Beachside is located at 1896 S. Patrick Dr. in Indian Harbour Beach. They serve food from 10:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday through Saturday, and Sundays from 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. Throughout the week, their sports bar is open from 10:30 a.m. till ?, and their outdoor tiki bar is open everyday from 5 p.m. till ? Each day sees a low-priced daily special that comes with tasty racquet fries and a drink — Mondays: chicken tenders; Tuesday: cheeseburgers; Wednesdays: chicken or beef cheesesteaks; Thursdays: half-Ace hoagies; Fridays: half-tuna hoagies; Saturday: a two-hot dog special, and on Sundays you can enjoy $1 off any of their smoothies. Contact them to either host your large event in their large banquet room or to cater your next large gathering. They also make special 3-foot hoagies which serve 22 people, as well as 6-foot varieties, which serve 45. Happy Hour is celebrated in both their full-liquor tiki and sports bars (the sports bar features 14 televisions on which to watch all your favorite games) every day from 5 p.m. to 7 p.m. Doubles also hosts live music every night. Call them at 773-5341 to find out who’s playing and to place orders in ahead. Please allow 48 hours notice for giant party hoagie orders. Doubles Beachside can be found online at: www.doublesbeachside.com

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My problem with reality shows isn’t so much that they elevate mundane events to the level of high Greek tragedy, the fact that they choose to uglify subjects that are often far better left alone, nor the way they’ve changed the very nature of editing for continuity’s sake into an insidious strain of Orwellian illusionism, but how they’ve let someone like Gordon Ramsay convince millions of viewers that they might know a thing or two about running a restaurant.

The famously prickly restaurateur’s hit reality show, “Gordon Ramsay’s Kitchen Nightmares,” finds him bursting into floundering eateries and turning them almost overnight into must-visit hotspots. “Nightmares” posits the notion that a restaurant which is unable to live up to Ramsay’s high and almighty standards (and there are many such places, apparently, no matter how many people don’t seem to mind them) can be made successful simply by the injection of several hundred thousand dollars-worth of design, equipment and vendor improvements, tossing the expired milk, and, of course, allowing Chef Ramsay himself to revamp their menu from the ground up, effectively making what was once Phil’s Eats another Gordon Ramsay restaurant. Which, in some respects, makes him a bit like the Peruvian bot fly, but with mussier hair.

Now I’m sure Ramsay does actually know what he’s talking about, because he’s wildly successful and has his own television show that tells us so, but it doesn’t mean that people should fancy themselves New York Times food critics after merely having seen a few episodes. It’s always easier to criticize something than praise it, as we all know, so in the spirit of turning the aphorism on its ear, I suggest creating a show called “Gordon Ramsay’s Kitchen Dreams,” in which he strolls into a place, enjoys a good meal, extends his compliments to the staff and chef, leaves a 20% tip and grabs a toothpick before going home to tell all his friends what a good time he had. He could film the first episode of “Kitchen Dreams” at Izzy’s Bistro in Cape Canaveral.

Knowing Ramsay, he’d probably re-fold his napkin into a swan playing a golden harp or ask the server to remove an ice cube or two from his water, but I believe he’d find himself struggling to come up with negative comments. Because Izzy’s, you see, is one of those rare restaurants that, while elegant, harbors no delusions of grandeur.

What Izzy’s does, it does well — something that might sound like faint praise if applied to a host of more mediocre local restaurants, but in the case of Izzy’s, the commendation covers every facet of the dining experience they provide. Here, the casualness you expect from a beachside restaurant meets with up-scale decor and ambience, and tried-and-true items are given refined and creative twists, from the time they’re conceived to the moment they appear at your table in stunning presentation. And that might be the secret of Izzy’s charm — the feeling that you’re getting something so special in an area that, according to some threads of logic, should be a lap or two behind the culinary times. As you take some of your first bites, that feeling morphs into undisputed fact, because Izzy’s is special — not for what it outshines, but for what it confidently presents.

Run by Jutta Rose, daughter of Brigitte Krause and sister to Chef Klaus, both of whom are behind Cocoa Beach’s vaunted Gregory’s, Izzy’s takes its name from Jutta’s daughter, 4-year-old Isabella. While much initial coverage has been given to Izzy’s inclusion of German dishes (most of which are served as weekend specials), it’s more correct to describe their menu as Continental, with generous flourishes of classic American influence woven in for good measure. Since Izzy’s opened in 2008, they’ve gone on to win praise for their skilled seafood preparations and their popular Tuna Tuesdays.

It’s all about the moment at Izzy’s — or rather, a succession of delightful moments that begin with their well-chosen appetizers. While generously portioned, each fulfills the appetizer’s aim of enticing both the palate and provoking interest in the remainder of the evening’s meal. Items include a jumbo shrimp cocktail; calamari fritti; char-grilled fresh sea scallops (in a red curry lobster cream with crispy wonton); roasted duck spring rolls; smoked salmon in phyllo; fire-roasted chipotle shrimp (featuring a delicate orange-cilantro butter sauce); the excellent and beautifully arranged whiskey shrimp (char grilled with a hoisin whiskey glaze), and one of their more popular selections: Izzy’s escargot in a fresh garlic cream sauce with shiitake mushrooms. Further initial adventures are to be found with their soups de jour and large salads, to which can be added char-grilled chicken, shrimp, or seared ahi tuna. We had the delicious bistro goat cheese salad, comprised of mixed field greens, warmed golden brown goat cheese, toasted pine nuts and a sampling of fresh fruit laced with raspberry vinaigrette. We also recommend the incredible cioppino (rarely found outside of San Francisco, its reputed place of origin) — an herb tomato broth surrounding shrimp, scallops, lobster mussels and chunks of fish.

Pasta is well represented by herb scampi or chicken pesto over fettucine; a seafood pasta, lobster pad thai, and one of their house specialties: Izzy’s Alfredo (asparagus tips, shiitake and applewood-smoked bacon in alfredo over fettucine). Seafood lovers have plenty to get excited about, too. There’s hibachi salmon, fresh mahi in a variety of preparations, coconut shrimp, shrimp and herb-crusted tilapia and an enormous lobster pot pie, filled with chunks of lobster and vegetables in a subtle mornay sauce. Turf selections are covered by chimichurri sirloin medallions topped with grilled shrimp; the bistro filet (an 8-oz. char-grilled filet mignon encrusted with bleu cheese); a 14-oz. NY strip pan-seared and finished with a Jameson mushroom demi-glaze); chicken vin blanc, and chili-crusted pork tenderloin with roasted corn relish prepared in a mango-tequila glaze. Part of Izzy’s enthralling character comes from creative touches like the discerning wine list, house-made dressings, masterful sauces and the option of side items like smoked gouda potato gratin and asparagus in hollandaise sauce.

The Klause family’s German heritage shines through in the traditional wiener schnitzel (two types of which appear on the regular menu) and devotes a special Friday and Saturday menu option to things like rouladen (thinly-sliced sirloin stuffed with bacon, pickles, mustard and ground beef over cabbage); spaetzle; goulash; roasted duck in a black cherry cognac sauce, and schweinehaxe, a whole pork shank cured and roasted with garlic and caraway seed. Each Tuesday sees an added menu of tuna dishes, including sushi rolls; pan-seared tuna cutlets; sesame seared tuna, and a blackened tuna salad along with several other permutations. Izzy’s Tuesday sampler platter gives you a little bit of every concoction, perfect for sharing among friends.

It’s hard to find fault with a place that prides itself on simply serving great food in a pleasant atmosphere without all the folderol — principles, which if you believe Gordon Ramsay, only exorbitantly expensive restaurants in New York adhere to. Dining out at anywhere other than a place he’s given his golden touch isn’t the impending nightmare he’s made it out to be. In the case of Izzy’s Bistro, it’s the effortless dream it’s meant to be.

Izzy’s Bistro is located at 6615 N. Atlantic Ave. in Cape Canaveral in the Sunseed Co-Op Plaza. Happy Hour is celebrated in their bar area Monday through Friday from 4 to 7 p.m. Enjoy 2-4-1 house wines and Bud Light drafts and $7 appetizers (at the bar exclusively). In addition to boasting an impressive, affordable wine list, Izzy’s also features a wide selection of domestic and imported bottled beers as well as Stella Artois, Warsteiner, Yuengling and Blue Moon on draught. Select early bird specials are offered Monday through Thursday from 4 to 6 p.m. They’re open Monday through Saturday from 4 p.m. to 10 p.m. and are closed Sundays. Call 783-4548 for reservations or more information. To view their menu in its entirety or to make reservations online, visit www.izzysbistroflorida.com

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