The Shark Pit Bar & Grill
• Tobin Bennison •

For all our easygoing, open-minded reputation is worth, beachside residents can certainly be a prejudiced bunch, especially when it comes to how far we’ll go for a good meal.

For the majority of us, a hungry drive to the mainland becomes a begrudging sojourn that usually ends at one of the many reliable, albeit characterless chains. Limited beachside, and all safe options exhausted, the last place we’d look for sustenance is in a hotel, much less one that’s hidden under the garish tourist towel thrown over the east side of A1A and 520. But we’d all do well to take a cue from the scores of seasoned travelers who know that some of the best kept dining secrets are where you’d least expect to find them.

Right under our collective nose, on the ground floor of the Four Points Sheraton/Cocoa Beach Surf Company building, is the Shark Pit, a restaurant that’s enjoyed some degree of local popularity, yet is still given short shrift by a number of doubters put off by its corporate veneer.

The reality is that while it is the Sheraton’s official restaurant/bar, in keeping with the Four Points brand, the casual, family-friendly Shark Pit is given a considerable amount of leeway in regards to its menu and design. As far as atmosphere goes, the Pit has to be one of the most appealing hotel restaurants within the designation. In fact, everything about it embraces locality and uses its edge as a showcase for Cocoa Beach’s draw as a surfing Mecca to appeal to both visitors and devout locals.

Decorated with rare, and very local surfing memorabilia, the Shark Pit enlightens tourists and heartens longtime residents with its respect for authenticity and regional history. In spite of its 14 televisions, the Shark Pit’s atmosphere is also surprisingly subdued. Thanks to the vaulted ceilings, the ambient sound is diffused enough to allow intimate conversation. Across from the thatched, full liquor tiki bar is the eatery’s claim to fame — a cylindrical tropical aquarium where guests and diners can witness shark feedings every Saturday at noon — but the Shark Pit’s true centerpiece is its large brick oven, in which its famous hand-tossed pizzas are baked to crispy perfection.

There are nine varieties offered — everything from the Florentina (spinach, artichoke, bacon, Portabella mushrooms, mozzarella and Alfredo) to a Hawaiian and a popular shrimp scampi-topped pie. We had the fresh tomato basil pizza, and loved it for the light, refined flavor that still managed to fill. We also tried their fish tacos (by far their biggest seller) with house-made chipotle mayonnaise, a grilled mahi-mahi salad (with roasted almonds, sweet onions, and Mandarin orange dressing), garlic pepper-seared tuna, and the Mahi Rockefeller, which is topped with spinach, bacon, and cheese.

The Shark Pit is also known for its wraps, sandwiches and burgers, all of which feature a signature twist. Their club, for instance, is served on a Kaiser roll with hickory-smoked bacon and a delicious red pepper aioli. All of their burgers are made with Black Angus beef, and can be prepared with Swiss, Asiago, mozzarella, provolone, and, wonderfully, goat cheese. There are over 12 appetizers to choose from and five salad selections (including a generous taco salad filled to the brim), and proper entrees range from a 10-oz. bourbon-glazed pork chop to baby back ribs, and hefty crab cakes with a mustard tartar sauce.

But what sets the Shark Pit above similar hotel restaurants is the fresh, clean flavor of its food. Only the highest quality ingredients are used, and equal attention is paid to both the main item and its accompaniment. The waffle fries that came with the fish tacos were virtually greaseless, and the sweet pepper rice served with our mahi entree was cooked perfectly. Thanks to personable general manager Billy Slone and a dedicated crew, the Shark Pit should have no problem winning over wary locals.

“The stigma of being a restaurant in a hotel is really hard to overcome,” Slone told us. “Locals will usually avoid it. But I think it’s a matter of people just coming in accidentally, trying it out, liking it, and telling their friends. There are people who have lived here their whole lives who’ve had no idea this place was here.” The Shark Pit’s laid-back atmosphere and Thursday “Native Nights,” which offer $3 you-call-it mixed drinks and an $11.95 pitcher and cheese pizza special, have already begun to remedy that issue.

Yet of all the Shark Pit’s charms, its ability to make you feel simultaneously at home and on vacation yourself is what makes it worth discovering and revisiting time and time again.

The Shark Pit is located at 4001 N. Atlantic Ave. in Cocoa Beach, on the ground floor of the Four Points Sheraton/Cocoa Beach Surf Company Complex. Ample visitor parking can be found in the adjoining multi-level parking garage, but it’s easiest to turn onto Brevard Lane just south of the building where you’ll find the outdoor parking lot. The Shark Pit is open from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Sunday through Thursday, and closes at midnight Friday and Saturday. They’re also open for a $7.95 breakfast buffet from 6 a.m. to 11 a.m. on Saturdays and Sundays. They offer loads of drink specials throughout the week and hold Happy Hour 7 days a week from 7 p.m. to close. You can watch virtually every sports event broadcast thanks to their 12 receivers and Direct TV access. Take out service is available as well as curbside delivery and a special kids menu is available on request. Call them at 783-8719. You can also view their entire menu online at: www. cocoabeachsurf.com.

View Larger Map

Sun On The Beach
• Tobin Bennison •

Taken at face value, there’s not much to distinguish Sun on the Beach from other east coast Florida diners, hundreds of which pepper the shore that stretches from Fernandina Beach to Key West.

You’ll notice that it is closer to the ocean than most independently owned diners — it is, in fact, one of two with ocean views between Cocoa Beach and Vero — but beyond that, everything about its outward appearance hews to the common model, from its bright, colorful atmosphere down to its sand-flecked welcome mat.

Walk in, and everything continues according to plan. Over there sit a family of tourists in the booth behind an elderly couple, and up at the counter hunch a trio of local surfers in damp, briny baggies. You’re going through your options well before you’ve even chosen a table or seen what they serve, so routine does the process seem.

Apart from the few seafood inspired twists on breakfast and lunch standards you shrewdly expect, the menu, you reckon, will have at least 15 dishes you’d find in any similar eatery, so you flip through the one you’ve been proffered in keeping with accepted form. You see some old friends — ham and eggs, the BLT, the Denver omelet… But what’s this? Cajun fried soft-shell crab? Andouille hash? Pea-crab fritters?

Lots of Florida diners augment their menus with Southern staples, but scant few offer much beyond a smattering of grits, gravy and biscuits, and country fried steak. Sun on the Beach, however, makes authentic, home-cooked Lowcountry inspired food its special focus. Since 2005, this place has ben a favorite of locals, and it’s not hard to see why.

Owned by the Black family — Gil and Parthenia and their sons, chefs Seth and Kent — Sun on the Beach also doesn’t skimp on disarming hospitality, an key ingredient in every Southern recipe, from cornbread to she-crab soup, just one of their daily house specialties. What’s more, everything here is given a gourmet touch, both in terms of flavor and presentation. Their cooking then, is best described as Southern gourmet.

The Black’s cumulative culinary experience is impressive. Seth and Kent’s grandparents were skilled cooks, and the boys grew up learning to prepare dishes in their parents’ “country kitchen” soul food deli back in Georgia. In 1984, the clan moved to the Keys to run a popular fine dining restaurant. It was here that the brothers began to incorporate local seafood into their family recipes. A later move back up to South Carolina saw Kent experimenting with elements of that area’s Lowcountry cuisine. All these factors meld beautifully with the Black’s love of entertaining. It’s in their blood, and it has rubbed off on each member of their staff.

While Sun on the Beach is a great place for traditional breakfast and lunch dishes, the real reason for it loyal patronage stems from several mouthwatering diversions. Shrimp and grits is a given, but where else can you order real, stone-ground grits with soft-shell crab or crawfish and andouille sausage?

Regulars will also attest to the excellence of staples like biscuits and gravy, served with either sausage or creamy chipped beef gravy. Fourteen types of omelets are, like everything else here, made to order. There’s a Cajun (with andouille, rice, and crawfish), the Indian River (mahi, blue crab, and veggies with pepper jack cheese), an Alaskan (house smoked salmon, asparagus, capers, tomatoes, and artichoke hearts with dill cream cheese), and the Lowcountry, filled with shrimp, blue crab, tomatoes, mushrooms, and cheese covered in a spicy Hollandaise. To top it off, so to speak, eight sauces are offered (among them Key lime cream, green chile Hollandaise, Gorgonzola, and roasted red pepper cream) and a build-your-own option with over 15 fillings to choose from.

The Blacks are also known for their stellar Benedicts, of which there are no less than 12 varieties. There’s a Greek (lamb, spinach, tomatoes, and feta), a Munich (with German fried potato salad and wiener schnitzel), the Key West (cracked conch in a Key lime cream sauce), and a crab cake Benedict, one of their more popular items. But by far, Sun on the Beach’s most beloved and representative dish is its Gullah Benedict, served with fried green tomatoes, shrimp, and spicy Hollandaise. Those in search of pancakes won’t be let down, but are strongly urged to try the fresh crepes, particularly the tasty shrimp pesto.

If lunch is what you’re after, Sun on the Beach six kinds of salads, including a blackened or grilled fresh catch (tossed with greens, tropical fruit, and nuts) and a delicious Carolina Cobb. The appetizer roster features cracked conch fingers served with mango chutney, fried green tomatoes or pickle spears, a Lowcountry shrimp cocktail (topped with a blood orange balsamic reduction), black-eyed pea and crab fritters with peach horseradish sauce, and smoked Gruyère and ricotta balls rolled and fried in panko breadcrumbs.

You’ll also find burgers, of course, and a selection of hot lunch entrees and sandwiches made with ingredients like soft-shell crab, cracked conch, jerk chicken, and filet mignon with fresh avocado, Gorgonzola, mushrooms, and basil aioli. Their grilled paninis are also a big hit; choose from the ribeye, Hawaiian chicken (it features ham, pineapple, toasted coconut, and Swiss cheese), a veggie option, the Stuttgart (schnitzel, red onions, apples, bacon and Fontina), and the mahi-packed Gulf Stream topped laced with Key lime aioli.

It’s said that the further north you go in Florida the more Southern it gets. With satisfying cooking like this, Sun on the Beach erases that contrived border and brings the South back down to where it truly belongs.

Sun on the Beach is located at 1753 A1A in Satellite Beach. They’re open 7 days a week from 6:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. (Enthusiastic regulars have been clamoring for the Blacks to open for dinner, but complicated city zoning rules keep the idea grounded.) Sun on the Beach is available for special events — weddings, rehearsal dinners, meetings, and reunions with available outdoor, ocean-view seating — and catered banquet packages are available as well, either on- or off-site. The Blacks can tailor a special menu according to your tastes. Call 777-9483 to learn more. You can view their menu online at: www.sotbfl.com.

View Larger Map

Rubio’s Cuban Café

Given the rich cultural history of Cuba, a tangled mélange of African, Spanish, Latin American, and Caribbean influences, “refinement” is probably the last word you’d expect to hear associated with its cuisine.

Cuban food is, both by historical precedent and economic necessity, a confused blur of flavors, marked by abundant spice, thick sauces, numerous sandwiches with identity crises, and slowly simmered, rib-sticking stews. But when you go to Rubio’s Cuban Café (on the site of the old Mr. Cubano) in Cape Canaveral, you discover a different, frequently buried facet of the island’s cooking style, one characterized less by traditional augmentation than by a kind of culinary archaeology, a peeling away of flavors that uncovers rich veins of authenticity.

Tapping into his roots, owner/chef Javier Gonzalez emphasizes largely forgotten aspects of Cuban cookery that were in existence well before the corruption of outside influences, American among them. Both in terms of portion size and taste, Javier’s dishes reminded us of Spanish cooking, their clear delineation of flavor similar to the tapas one finds from Bilbao to Cádiz.

We mentioned this to Javier during our visit and were surprised to hear him describe his background as “half Cuban, half Spanish.” The Spanish comes from Javier’s paternal side, while the Cuban stems from his mother Olga’s family, the Rubios. Though Javier admits he was never allowed in the kitchen while his mother was cooking, he describes himself as always peering curiously over the counter to watch her at work. Years later, when he started cooking for himself, he found himself frequently phoning both his mother and his sisters for advice on how to recreate the masterpieces he remembered from his youth. In recreating these beloved family recipes for Rubio’s, Javier also pays homage to his Spanish blood by adhering to that culture’s cooking principles — the use fresh, seasonal ingredients and the avoidance of all artificial enhancements and flavors.

Rubio’s food is still Cuban, make no mistake, but entirely free of the slapdash, crock pot mentality fans may be used to. Those fed by Miami- or Tampa-based “authentic” dives might be surprised at first Javier’s unique approach to cooking, but by meal’s end they’ll be won over by its refreshing warmth and ingenuity. However, “refined” in this case shouldn’t suggest high-minded exclusivity or gimmicky gourmet flourishes. Despite its similarly refined, modern décor (courtesy of Javier’s hand-built tables and upholstery work), Rubio’s still embraces the Cuban tradition of affordability and family-friendly, hands-on service.

A selection of Rubio’s signature dishes, coincidentally both his and his customers’ favorites, bears this strategy out — beef empanadas (made on site by Javier); tasty black beans and rice; an excellent Cuban sandwich (with pulled, roasted pork marinated in homemade mojo); fried maduros (sweet plantains); ropa vieja; a sour orange-marinated palomilla steak seared to tender perfection, and camarones al ajillo (shrimp sautéed in Spanish olive oil, garlic, and lime). The shrimp in particular were something entirely different — and far more delicious — than we’re used to. The sauce, while thick and piquant as it should be, was also surprisingly delicate, each flavor as detectable as if we were reading the recipe note card. Likewise, the amazing pulled pork that graced the Cuban (a good mixture of satisfying chunks and thin strands) suggested the intricate flavors of a mojo that could have only been conceived from generations of care and love. Sour orange is the not-so-secret ingredient in the tender palomilla, and its presence is a contained whisper rather than a startling shout.

In keeping with the Cuban tradition of abundance of choices, all variations on a binding theme of ingredients, Rubio’s menu is too vast to list in its entirety here. We recommend grabbing the take-home paper version of it for safekeeping. Each item deserves at least one try, and we’re tempted to attack the task, though doing so before 2011 might prove difficult. Appetizers include Javier’s crisp empanadas (filled with either beef, chicken, or fish), ham croquetas, tamales, papas rellenas (potato dumplings stuffed with seasoned ground beef), and yuca fries served with garlic mojo. There’s also a selection of soups and salads, and a number of side dishes (including maduros and tostones) will enhance any dish.

All entrées are served with rice (white, yellow, or moros), black beans, and plantains. The beef (carnes) section includes a breaded palomilla (palomilla empanizada); picadillo (ground beef cooked in a Cuban Creole sauce with wine and raisins); a Cuban beef stew; steak Milanesa (topped with marinara sauce and melted cheese); tender oxtail in a spicy red wine sauce; boliche (eye round stuffed with Spanish sausage), and one of their more popular items, ropa vieja. There’s also roasted pork, flat iron-seared pork chops, and masas de puerco — fried tender pork chunks served with mojo and sliced onions.

Rubio’s offers seven chicken dishes (including the classic arroz con pollo, and chicharrones de pollo) and four seafood dishes (like mahi filet grilled in mojo, Creole or garlic sauce, and blackened or breaded), all of which are excellent, but Javier’s 16 sandwich varieties are something to behold. Made with authentic Cuban bread (fetched throughout the week from Tampa) and pressed crisply, all of these sandwiches are worth repeated visits. Along with the Cuban and media noche (served on a sweet bread roll), there’s the hard-to-find Elena Ruz (cream cheese, roast turkey, and strawberry marmalade), named after its originator, a famous Cuban socialite from the ’30s. You’ll also find the choripan (flat iron-seared chorizo and onions), chopped flank steak in a Creole sauce with Swiss cheese, the mahi sandwich, pan con picadillo, and pan con ropa vieja. Dessert lovers will revel in Rubio’s tres leches, homemade rice and bread pudding, an array of Cuban pastries, and vanilla flan. Also on hand are Cuban batidos (shakes) — mamey, mango, papaya, pineapple, guava, and wheat (trigo).

We also highly recommend a breakfast visit to Rubio’s, where among more traditional American fare, you’ll find some of Javier’s Spanish-style three-egg omelets. Firmer and fluffier than garden variety omelets, Javier’s versions (there are 6 types) include a Basque style (with chorizo, yellow onions, and potatoes), a plantain omelet, and a create-your-own. Two breakfast selections, the Beachside (two fried eggs over black beans and white rice with toast) and the Riverside (two fried eggs over black beans and grits), were created for loyal customers. The French toast is made with Cuban bread, which lends it a heartier texture, and there are a wealth of side dishes and coffee beverages to choose from.

For a pleasant shift in perspective, give Rubio’s a try. If you’re like us, you’ll find it’s everything you expect from Cuban food — and something much more.

Rubio’s Cuban Café is located at 6550 N. Atlantic Ave. in Cape Canaveral. They’re open Monday through Saturday from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. and Sundays from 8 a.m. to 3 p.m. Breakfast is served until 11 a.m. Monday through Saturday and all day Sunday. Rubio’s is very family-friendly and offers a special children’s menu. Rubio’s enjoys a high rating on TripAdvisor; Javier and staff welcome feedback and candid comments. Rubio’s is also available for private events and fully equipped for off-site catering services for all manner of gatherings and events. Call 24 hours ahead to arrange and plan a meal with Javier. Take out and delivery (within a limited range) service is offered as well. Call 799-2200.

View Larger Map

Concepts On Highland

If there’s one overriding problem with the current state of much contemporary cuisine, it would have to be its reliance on intellectualized “concept” over actual delivery. Add to that some insufferable, self-important chefs, and you’re left with some highly photogenic dishes that aren’t so much meals in the traditional sense as they are transient, edible trends.

But one of the newest additions to the increasingly vibrant Brevard dining scene, downtown Eau Gallie’s Concepts on Highland, turns the “concept” concept on its ear by embracing not one, but several. There’s a lot to be said for Concepts’ very name, one that intimates the embracement of plurality and adaptability rather than one limiting theme. Guided by chef/owner Grant Heaslewood, Concepts on Highland aims to wither the cliché of chefs being arrogant, all-knowing maestros and diners as rubes who should count themselves fortunate enough to sample their masterpieces at a punishing price.

And as good as Concepts’ food is, it’s really Heaslewood who deserves the limelight. Born in Wimbledon, England, Heaslewood moved to Virginia at the age of three, and got his first taste of restaurant work 12 years later. When he turned 18, he began working with Clyde’s Restaurant Group, and with their support attended Gaithersburg, Maryland’s L’Academie de Cuisine before striking out on his own as head chef at The Addison on Amelia, Florida’s top-rated bed and breakfast. While he’d been back and forth to Florida throughout his 20s, Heaslewood decided to settle here to open Concepts just six months ago.

As Concepts on Highland’s chef, Heaslewood exhibits both the personability of a small-town diner cook and the exacting tongue and eye of a Michelin-rated chef de cuisine. This uncommon mixture of approaches comes out in the versatility of Concepts’ menu. Unlike many chefs, Heaslewood welcomes criticisms, special requests, and substitutions from his clientele, and often encourages them, especially if they enhance their dining experience. For him, cooking is an ongoing learning process, a discipline that accepts a passion for tradition, experimental finesse, and an openness to new ideas in equal measure. Above all, he’ set on enticing customers back to share his love of good food prepared on-the-spot with the freshest ingredients available.

So this food, then? Simply stellar. Apart from their affordability, the dishes show a melding of flavors that are as familiar as they are astonishingly new. This is not will-nilly fusion for its own sake, but considered complement fashioned by years of experience and customer-driven feedback. Take one of Concepts’ most popular dishes, the grilled 12-oz. Kobe N.Y. strip, sweet-and-sour chili glazed with rice pilaf, Thai cucumber salad and orange-soy aioli finished with crispy wontons. Another favorite item, the seared Atlantic salmon, pulls out all the stops for an incredible burst of flavor. It’s served with herbed rice pilaf; sautéed spinach; cherry tomatoes; Kalamata olives; capers; lemon zest; fresh herbs, extra-virgin olive oil, and a sweet balsamic glaze.

Other creations on April’s menu (Heaslewood adapts them to reflect the changing seasons) are veal and shrimp (sautéed with roasted shallots, fresh vegetables, and served with mashed potatoes in a tomato demi-glaze); grilled filet mignon (with potato croquette, roasted shallots, sautéed vegetables and served with a compound butter, bleu cheese, or au poivre style); the herbed chicken breast with grilled peach and basil chutney; walnut-crusted pork loin with spiced butternut squash and apples and pears; blackened mahi-mahi with pineapple salsa topped with lump crab meat and buerre blanc) and Meunière-style soft shell crab, sautéed in butter, lemon, white wine and parsley.

The appetizer selection is even more indicative of Heaslewood’s ingenuity. Things like red bell pepper hummus (with Mediterranean relish and pita chips); shrimp and brie samosas (with pineapple salsa and lemon-garlic crème fraiche); seared sashimi-grade tuna, and a wide range of soups and bisques of the day (each made daily) rely on interesting flavor pairings and Heaslewood’s demand for only the highest-quality ingredients. The classic remoulade that accompanies his Maryland crab cakes, for instance, is built with shallots, capers, parsley, Dijon mustard, and gherkins — not overly brined pickle substitutes.

Salad choices include their famous House-style (mixed greens with slivered shallots, cucumbers, and cherry tomatoes tossed with toasted pine nuts and a Dijon-chardonnnay vinaigrette), a Caesar, and Concepts’ signature spinach salad adorned with shallots, dried cranberries, toasted walnuts, apples, and a generous round of fried goat cheese. April’s lunch menu also features their excellent House burger (with bleu cheese compound butter); a tuna salad wrap; Concept’s Maryland crab cake sandwich; grilled chicken and brie; a vegetable pita and Meunière soft shell sandwich.

Whichever dish you order, each can be suited to individual tastes or blended with other interest-piqueing ingredients. As concepts go, Heaslewood’s is one of the more practical lately employed. And through him, Concepts on Highland’s refreshing principles pluck the dining experience out of the rarefied ether and put it back in the hands of the hungry customer. And while it’s a concept a celebrated few might find hard to wrap their heads around, for the rest of us, it’s as easy to grasp as a knife and fork.

Concepts on Highland is located in historic downtown Eau Gallie at 1437 Highland Avenue. They’re open for lunch Monday through Saturday from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. and serve dinner from 5 p.m. to 9 p.m. Tuesday through Thursday, till 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Lunch starts at $8, dinner at $16. Tuesday through Thursday, enjoy a free bottle of wine with the purchase of two entrees. Concepts offers an extensive and very creatively-chosen wine list; bring your own favorite in if you wish — corkage fee is $8. On Fridays and Saturdays, enjoy a four-course meal (with the exception of the Kobe beef) and a bottle of wine for $95. Concepts on Highland offers a large private dining room for all occasions as well as catering service. Call (321) 610-7987 to make reservations.

View Larger Map

On March 13, Lori Wilson Park will be transformed into an international tasting village as part of the inaugural Cocoa Beach Wine & Food Festival.

Conceived by Cocoa Beach attorney Tony Hernandez III, the Festival has been three years in the making, and the result of his, Event Manager Matt Gunter and countless others’ tireless work to help showcase the best and most eclectic selection of food Brevard has to offer while helping fill local food banks. As a core organizer, Hernandez could be said to have had a leg up in its development, thanks to his impressive track record as a philanthropist, respected community leader, erstwhile restaurateur and cook, and an avowed food and wine enthusiast who runs a successful law office while juggling several pet causes at the same time.

With all this on his proverbial plate, Hernandez, initially inspired by an encounter with a young penniless family in search of food, enlisted the help of Craig Technologies and SpaceCoast Living to bring the community and the area’s finest restaurants together to combat hunger throughout Brevard County.

Proceeds from this year’s Festival will benefit Project Hunger, a local, grassroots organization that facilitates the disbursement of food to the needy through County food banks. With every $1 the Festival raises, Project Hunger can purchase $9 worth of food for local food banks.

Based on current call volume, and surely influenced by the recent economic downturn, Brevard can expect a 63% increase in requests for referrals to food assistance agencies this year. An estimated 33,000 Brevard residents are considered “food insecure,” and of those people, an increasing number are more likely to spend their limited funds on food than on utilities, medical needs, and rents and mortgages.

But what’s more striking to Hernandez is the lack of complementary staples in local food bank stocks. “There’s always something missing,” he explains. “There never seemed to be sufficient food on hand. There would be cereal, but no milk — or peanut butter and jelly, but no bread. And much of it is just canned.” On top of that, Hernandez says, there was a distinct lack of fresh, nutritious food to help complete well-balanced family meals, which provide vital checks against illness and another of his pet peeves, obesity. “One out of every 7 families doesn’t have sufficient nutritious food for household meals. And then there’s the cost of food in general. It’s much easier for low-income families to buy cheap, fast food than to buy fresh alternatives.”

“The community is overwhelmed with this problem. We can’t depend on the State or Federal Government to help. We have to do it ourselves,” Hernandez says. “We as a community have to bear the burden. We’re talking about children and people here.”

With that admirable goal in mind, the Cocoa Beach Wine & Food Festival will gather an ethnically diverse collection of 13 of Brevard’s most renowned chefs to prepare food samples from their respective countries of origin, which will be paired with wines selected by discerning sommeliers. Seven local seafood restaurants will also participate in the Festival’s Tasting Village, along with baker Linda Lopez of Cape Canaveral’s Bald Strawberry Bakery. Visitors will be given a wine glass for the event as well as a voting ballot, with the results of their favorite creations to be tallied up at the day’s end.

Representing China will be Chef Michael Lee of Yen Yen in Cocoa Beach, while Chef Chai of Cocoa Beach’s Siam Orchid will prepare delicacies from Thailand. An interesting inclusion on the Asian roster is Chef Peter Lin, whose Chameleon Fusion Bistro in Melbourne has won rave reviews for its fusion of European and Pacific Rim flavors. India will be represented by Chef Anil Vadaparambil of Melbourne’s Taste of India. Widely regarded as Brevard’s finest and most authentic Indian restaurant, Taste of India is also highly regarded throughout central Florida for its respect for fresh ingredients, nutritious preparation, and delicately nuanced flavors.

The distinctive, sunny taste of Jamaica comes courtesy of Cape Canaveral’s own Chef Trevor Dixon of Trevor’s Blue Toucan. Though Trevor is adept with a number of international cuisines, he’s earned local fame with the curries, rich sauces, and jerked specialties of his hospitable homeland. An Italian surprise comes in the form of Chef Brano Kunik of Cocoa Beach’s Brano’s Italian Grill. Though a relative newcomer to the local dining scene, Brano’s has quickly gained loyalty for both its adherence to Italian tradition and its courage to push the community gently beyond its pizza and spaghetti comfort zone with items like Veal Ercolano and Eggplant Rolatini. Greek Chefs Zacharias Ligerakis and Nick Poulos will bring the Mediterranean flavors of Cocoa Beach’s Zachary’s Restaurant to the Tasting Village.

The Festival also offers attendants a unique opportunity to experience one of the area’s largely undiscovered gems, Palm Bay’s La Estancia de Luisa. Chefs Lara and Francisco Lara enjoy a devoted, almost secretive following for their traditional Colombian cooking. Representing Cuba is Chef Javier Gonzalez of Cape Canaveral’s Rubio’s Cuban Café and Brazilian Chef Boaz DaCosta will enlighten guests with selections from his Brasas Grill based in Cocoa Village. Another interesting choice is the Festival’s selection of Chef Marlene Khouri. Her Cedars Café specializes in healthy Lebanese and Mediterranean cuisine. Chef Klaus Krause of Izzy’s Bistro will appear on behalf of Germany, and America will have a spot in the Village thanks to Chefs Nancy and Stuart Bortons of Malabar’s Yellow Dog Café.

In light of one of our community’s most defining geographical features, no local wine and food celebration would be complete without a strong showing of some of the area’s best seafood restaurants. Look for Chef Tomislad Saronja of The Surf; Chef Kevin Keller of The Fat Snook; Chefs Garry Bracken and Matt Calowell of Fishlips Waterfront Bar & Grill; Chef Jason Tavenier of Gregory’s Steak & Seafood Grill; Chef Clen Dunham of The Lobster Shanty; Chef Rick James of Rusty’s Seafood & Oyster Bar, and Chef Mark Stewart of Atlantic Ocean Grille.

After the International Tasting Village, which will run from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m., the Festival will continue with live music from local band MoGeetz from 3 p.m. to 5 p.m., followed by an award ceremony for the best food of the day. Amidst all this, guests can enjoy food vendors (including a fusion ice cream booth) separate from the Tasting Village; an ongoing interactive “Wine 101″ class; booths with high-end handcrafted silver jewelry, accessories, and cosmetics; a tap-equipped beer truck courtesy of the Florida Beer Company; giveaways and raffles; sand sculpture artisans, and a mid-day solo acoustic performance by Cocoa Beach’s own Jamming Joe. The day is capped off by a performance from Three Dog Night from 6 p.m. to 8 p.m.

Hernandez hopes this will be the first of many such Festivals to be bound together by a new theme each year. But for now, he has his sights set firmly on improving the lives of needy families with this important inaugural event. “We have to take responsibility and show what we can do as a community to tackle the hunger problem.”

The Cocoa Beach Wine & Food Festival takes place March 13 from 10 a.m. to 8 p.m. at Lori Wilson Park in Cocoa Beach, about 1 and 1/2 miles south of S.R. 520. Tickets are $75 and are available for purchase through Ticket Web (www.ticketweb.com), a link for which is also supplied on the Festival’s website: www.cocoabeachwinefooodfestival.com. Due to the nature of the Festival, attendants should be 21 years of age or older. Free Park & Ride Service will be provided from three parking locations: on 520 just west of Sunrise Diner, at Alan Shepard Park at the east end of 520, and at Sidney Fischer Park on the east side of A1A in the central beach area. Visitors will be dropped off at the Cocoa Beach Hilton parking lot, located at 1550 N. Atlantic Ave. Local hotels will also be offering overnight stay specials for the event. Check the Festival website for details.

Coconuts on the Beach
By: Tobin Bennison

When Punxsutawney Phil pokes his head out of his burrow this February 2 — Groundhog Day — there’s no telling whether he’ll see his shadow or not.

You’d think that the recent frigid weather would suggest a protracted winter, but we’re talking about weather — and we all know what a slave to certainty the climate is, much less to the whims of a somnolent varmint.

Portentous rodents and tricks of the light aside, one thing is sure: nothing can stem the tide of Spring Break, which has already begun for some obscure college somewhere, and with each passing year seems to extend well into the latter half of May.

Coconuts On The Beach is another institution that refuses to abide by quaint superstition, and for a goodly part of the year, Spring Break and Coconuts join hands to welcome both familiar locals and slathering strangers from across this great nation to the beach’s nexus for reveling in winter’s demise.

But what both these camps may not see coming is Coconuts’ revamped menu and refined atmosphere, which, while still suitably celebratory, now aims to apply a gleaming new sheen to an old Cocoa Beach standby. Even in the absence of annual spring festivities, Coconuts, owned by the local Artz family for some 30 years, promises fresh surprises for those who’ve grown weary of fried beachside fare.

Fried food has long been the scourge of local cuisine, and while it satisfies on a very immediate level, it fails to satiate the desires of an ever adventurous and curious public, concerned as much for their health as the state of their taste buds.

For us, the first signs of a Coconuts wind change came in the form of a tasty crawfish and corn chowder, piquant enough to ward off the lingering chill yet still light enough to suggest its eventual status as a year-round pleaser. Other surprises came in the form of enhanced appetizers — including coconut-crusted shrimp and seared sesame or Moroccan-style tuna, two of several new house favorites — and a host of revolving weekly lunch and dinner specials. Of these specials, their fresh fish items are sure to be the most popular. Along with their sushi-grade tuna, firm mahi and tilapia, lobster tails, shrimp, and lump crab feature in many of their new recipes.

Pasta, steak, and chicken are on hand, as are a range of sandwiches and burgers, including their “Black and Bleu,” a blackened Angus beef patty topped with bleu cheese and bacon.

Value, versatility, and constistency still hold sway at Coconuts though, and longtime regulars are enjoying the changes as much as visitors from afar. Coconuts’ bulky salads are just as beloved as their newer items designed with vegetarians, gluten-wary diners, and the more health-conscious in mind.

One of these is a delicious stuffed tomato, filled with chicken salad and fresh fruit. Making inventive use of tropical spices and flavors, these and other choices help lift typical beachside dining to a new level.

But what really draws people to Coconuts is their friendly devotion to the customer, wherever they may hail from. Kid and family friendly and equipped with both indoor and extended outdoor dining, Coconuts is also a year-round entertainment hub. Their remodeled outdoor tiki bar offers heaters for nippier evenings, and a new awning ensures excellent live entertainment rain or shine.

Spring break wouldn’t be complete without a wide selection of tropical drinks and specialty cocktails, and Coconuts rises to the demand with one of the most impressive drink menus in the county.

Enjoyed with excellent surf items (like their popular mango mahi — an 8-oz. filet served grilled, blackened or jerked, served over cuban-inspired black beans and rice with fresh mango salsa), salads, appetizers, and turf plates (like their Chef’s House Steak — blackened and grilled top sirloin served with garlic sauce, mushrooms, and roasted tomatoes), Coconuts is poised to raise the quality bar for other similar beachside eateries as well.

Whether you’re in town from Dayton or Daytona, or even if you consider Minutemen Causeway to be your main drag, rain, snow or glowering cloud can never stop the sun from shining over Coconuts On The Beach.

Coconuts On The Beach is located at 2 Minutemen Cswy. in the heart of downtown Cocoa Beach. Enjoy casual oceanfront dining, regular live music and entertainment Wednesday through Saturday, fabulous drink specials, and extended happy hour and food and drink specials throughout the Spring Break season. As you Spring Break headquarters, Coconuts also serves breakfast on Saturdays and Sundays, with a special continental breakfast menu on offer during spring. Check back with the Resident or ask them about their upcoming wine tasting program and community wine events. To find out more, visit this issue’s entertainment calendar section, call them at 784-1422, or go to www.coconutsonthebeach.com.

View Larger Map

One of my favourite customers from my bartending days was a man named John Phillips.

As a retired Philadelphia fireman who served during the ‘50s and ‘60s, you’d figure John would have some great stories about raging infernos, near-death experiences, and improbable rescues. But like many a modest veteran of tough work or battle — and very much in keeping with every fireman I’ve known — John never spoke about the bad stuff.

For John, the mundane events that unfolded during the interminable periods of waiting in the firehouse were far more interesting. His eyes seemed to mist over slightly whenever he mentioned his beloved firehouse, his home away from home where he shared meals, deep discussions, dreams, arguments, and juvenile practical jokes with friends that became more like family over the years.

I couldn’t help thinking of John during our recent outing to downtown Melbourne’s Firehouse Restaurant & Lounge, a place he’d have loved as much for its food and antique decor as for the way it came into being. The lifelong dream of volunteer firefighter brothers James and Matthew McNulty, the Firehouse satisfies on two counts: both for the unique atmosphere it evokes and for the exceptional food it provides.

Billing itself as “Melbourne’s First Real Steakhouse,” the dark and cozy Firehouse tackles one of the food world’s most aggressive conflagrations with the courageous zeal of its founders.

If you think religion and politics are thorny subjects for discussion, try bringing up the issue of steak the next time you’re in mixed company. You’d think it would be smooth sailing once the vegetarians shuffled off to the kitchen to do the washing up, but the clouds of dissent have only just begun to gather, for steak lovers the world over have very distinct and often opposing views on how it is best prepared.

Locals agree that the McNulty brothers have extinguished the blazing dispute with their own Firehouse, an homage to both their work and their favourite entrée, in all its forms. Another thing locals agree on is that the McNulty’s haven’t skimped on their other beefless dishes — a common pitfall for most steakhouses – as their well-balanced menu attests.

Firehouse appetizers are worth their own visit, with items like seared ahi tuna (served with wasabi crème fraiche); mussels (with white wine sauce, proscuitto, and caramelized onions); crab cakes; a caprese salad; Oysters Rockefeller; Peruvian ceviche, and more, including soups like lobster bisque and French onion, and some very popular salads. And yes, there is an excellent filet of beef carpaccio, topped as it should be with capers and shaved Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese.

Entrées like linguine and clams, brick-fired chicken, zuppa di pesci, fresh catch-of–the-day fish, lobster, stuffed shrimp, ravioli, and pasta primavera earn as much raves as the Firehouse’s specialty: hand-cut steaks and chops. Meat lovers will find just about everything here — two sizes of filet mignon (8- and 12-oz.); a 24-oz. bone-in NY strip; a 24-oz. bone-in ribeye; 26-oz. porterhouse; bone-in center cut pork chop; 16-oz. veal chop; rack of lamb, and several Firehouse special cuts.

What’s more, all entrées come with the option of some satisfying and well-prepared sides like creamed spinach, asparagus Milanese, baked potato, home fries, mashed potatoes, and seasonal vegetables. But what pleased us most was their selection of steak toppings, only two of which we were able to try, much to our deep regret. Along with a traditional Oscar and Béarnaise sauce are choices like Burgundy mushrooms; melted Gorgonzola; Sabrina sauce (spinach and jumbo crab meat topped with béarnaise), and an Asian-inspired aioli topped with shrimp and scallopscaled the Dynamite.

Lunch, served daily from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m., sees a special selection of steaks, entrées, and salads, along with six types of burgers and some delicious sandwiches. Additionally, the Firehouse is a great destination for a drink. Its full bar, apart from being classily attractive, is stocked with some hard-to-find bottles, and hours could be spent viewing the memorabilia while sipping on expertly-crafted Manhattans.

Wherever you go, you’ll find that everyone’s a steak critic. Whether the topic is optimal cuts, temperatures, techniques, or hardware, steak lovers seem to spend more time arguing about beef than they do actually enjoying it.

The way to end all dissension might be to stop reaching for an unattainable state of perfection and contenting oneself with the rare moments of excellence such as the Firehouse offers.

The Firehouse Restaurant & Lounge is located at 923 E. New Haven Ave. in historic downtown Melbourne. They’re open daily for lunch from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m., and for dinner from 4 p.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday through Thursday — 4 to 11 p.m. on Fridays and Saturdays. Their full bar is open until late starting at 11 a.m. daily. For more information, call 327-7919.

View Larger Map

According to the British Beer and Pub Association, Britain has seen the closure of 52 traditional pubs each week since mid-decade, and figures for the first six months of 2009 show that number increased by one-third.

To many, the pub is a solid cornerstone of English life, as integral to its collective identity as the red, double-decker bus, the phone box, bearskin hats, tea cozies, and thatched-roof cottages. Once beloved arenas of public discussion, encroaching modernization and changes in the way people socialize have found the hearth-warmed archetype ditched in favor of clinical wine bars, pre-packaged chain pubs, and American-style sports taverns. Of course, many still remain in the well-populated towns tourists are sure to frequent, but finding a pub that cleaves to the traditional idea of being a home away from home has become an increasingly difficult prospect on the sceptred isle.

But thanks to a diaspora of ex-pats like father-and-daughter team Peter and Jane Collett, the English pub as social hub and purveyor of reliable, hearty fare enjoys a second life on many a distant shore. For 23 years, the Collett’s Pig & Whistle has supplied Cocoa Beach with the kind of cozy warmth you expect from a real English pub, and to me, nothing says winter like tucking into one of their shepherd’s pies. Make no mistake: the Pig offers plenty in the way of drink, but it has also built its solid customer base on the food it serves. Their selection of dishes alone evokes feelings of wintry comfort: haddock and chips; sausage and chips; shepherd’s pie; pot pies; chip butties; mushy peas, and home-cooked roast beef sandwiches among them.

Now two years in its 240 N. Orlando Avenue location in the heart of downtown Cocoa Beach, the Pig & Whistle began life about a mile north in an incongruous shopping plaza, a location which, while not what you’d call particularly “traditional,” never proved to be much of an obstacle to those in search of English hospitality. The Pig’s new wood-framed digs are certainly more conducive to experiencing the enjoyment of a traditional pub, but the Collett’s ethos hasn’t changed since they first adopted their quaint name, which stems from an arcane, and thus quintessentially British, tradition. As their menu will tell you, the practice of whistling continuously while retrieving daily rum rations from barrels, or “pigs,” below decks ensured that Royal Navy midshipmen wouldn’t sneak sips while performing their duty. There are many English pubs, especially those in coastal areas, called “The Pig & Whistle,” but each, as the Collett’s show, is wonderfully unique.

Himself a Royal Navy veteran, Peter Collett began training as a chef at 16 in his hometown of Ascot, and prides himself on preparing all of the Pig’s food in-house. He knows that his haddock and chips will come out better than most because he takes the time to batter and fry them to order. This means that there may be a bit of a wait for some dishes, but when you get food as good as this, the gap is more than forgivable. Plus, the wait is made easy with a full-liquor bar and wide selection of draughts and bottles, including English staples like Strongbow, Newcastle, and Samuel Smith’s. This is a pub, don’t forget.

The practice of eating under the same roof where you’ve come to drink isn’t an exclusively English one, but there’s no doubt our cousins facilitate it better than anyone else. To that end, the Pig & Whistle’s menu, while somewhat Americanized, features reasonably priced, casual meals that go well with any of the beverages on hand. And in keeping with the pub’s open-armed spirit, families are always welcome to share in the warmth. All their food can be enjoyed either at the ample bar, in the dining room, or in their pleasant outdoor seating area. The Pig also does a brisk take-out business with their fresh sandwiches, burgers, and seafood entrees.

In addition to 5 or 6 daily specials, the Pig & Whistle’s menu features a host of appetizers (including a homemade soup of the day; salads; fried mozzarella; jalapeño poppers, and sausage rolls — English-style pork sausage baked in puff pastry), delicious 8-oz. Angus beef burgers (never frozen), chicken entrees, and an array of seafood dishes. The haddock and chips (served with mushy peas and coleslaw) is the Pig’s claim to fame, but their grilled fish salads and sandwiches, crab cakes, and shrimp and clam baskets are always popular draws. Generous sandwiches are also available: choose from roast beef; roast turkey; French dip with au jus; grilled ham and cheese; a great BLT, and others.

But the timbered exterior of the Pig & Whistle also suggests the presence of some traditional English fare, and on that count, the Pig delivers. Their beloved shepherd’s pie also comes as a curried version, and sausage and chips, pot pies, and chip butties (essentially french fry sandwiches) will please anyone hoping to add some Dickensian cheer to their holiday season. The pub as we once knew it may be on its way out across the pond, but the Collett’s Pig & Whistle keeps the spirit of the treasured institution alive and well beachside.

The Pig & Whistle English Pub and Restaurant (240 N. Orlando Ave.; Cocoa Beach) is open 7 days a week, 365 days a year until 2 a.m., with the kitchen serving until 1 a.m. every night. They open Monday through Friday at 8 a.m.; Saturdays and Sundays at 10 a.m. Christmas will find them open at 11 a.m., and New Year’s Eve will see a buffet and free champagne at midnight. The NFL, MLB, and NHL tickets can be enjoyed on 14 televisions, as can Setanta and Fox Sports channels. $7.95 fish and chip specials occur daily till 5 p.m.; $5.95 shepherd’s pies are served all day and night each Monday. Check their menu board for daily dessert specials. Happy Hour is held every day from 8 a.m. to 11 a.m. and 4 p.m. to 8 p.m., Monday through Friday, with $2 pints of draught Bud or Bud Light along with several bottle specials. Enjoy $2 shots each Tuesday; $2 Jägers every Saturday; and $10 buckets of domestic beer are featured each Thursday and Saturday. The Pig & Whistle is also equipped with a jukebox, video bowling, live Golden Tee, and a dartboard. For more information, or to call in orders ahead, call (321) 799-0724.

View Larger Map

They say you can’t go home again, but places like the Blueberry Muffin prove you can still get pretty darn close.

Like thousands of small, independently owned restaurants scattered all over the country, Indialantic’s Blueberry Muffin acts as a home away from home for individuals throughout its community and beyond. It’s a place where the spirit of home isn’t nearly as irretrievable as we’ve resigned ourselves into believing, and where feeding the soul is as important as satiating the stomach.

The very thing that binds the Muffin to other similar eateries is also, anomalously, the attribute that makes it so unique: the character of its owners. Here — despite their humble protests to the contrary — the Kokotis family makes Indialantic’s favorite restaurant a place where customers can bask in the kind of excellent, home-cooked food only unconditional love can produce.

The youthful and affable Bill and Anna Kokotis know that basic customer satisfaction is the cornerstone of their success, but they take the principle one step further by embracing each diner, whether new or regular, as one of their own. Customers who’ve been coming since the Kokotises purchased the Muffin in 1986 have watched their daughters, Anastasia and Antonia, grow up behind the counter, and Antonia and husband Tim’s recent welcoming of son Nathan is still met with the kind of temporal disbelief usually reserved for family reunions. One midwestern patron who comes to the Space Coast on business once a year claims that the promise of a meal at the Blueberry Muffin is always the one delicious palliative of a journey fraught with boredom and hard work, and his arrival is always treated as a homecoming.

Originally from Chicago, the Kokotises moved to Indialantic in 1985, lured by the pristine environs, solid school system and close-knit community. By the time of their arrival, the Blueberry Muffin was already established as the area’s go-to spot for breakfast and lunch, but Bill and Anna transformed it from a reliable workhorse into the cozy home away from home we’re all forever in search of. If you ask them, Bill and Anna will claim that “the universe” was on their side when they took over, but thousands of Muffin devotees simply chalk their success up to their engaging personalities and lovingly prepared dishes.

Emphasis on fresh, superior ingredients — like the wild Maine blueberries they use for their namesake and “Blueberry Patch” pancakes — elevate the Muffin’s food from standard fare to the meals you associate with family gatherings. Likewise, the light egg wash and brief dusting given to their battered haddock and chips make them some of the best we’ve had beachside. Airy and delicately crispy, the crust is more akin to filo than the doughy coating you’re used to experiencing.

Breakfast can be enjoyed all day at the Muffin, and daily, revolving specials feature different varieties of fresh-baked muffins and house-made quiches. Signature pancakes, served with creamery butter, are joined by fluffy French toast and hearty Belgian waffles, which can be topped with pecans, walnuts or fresh fruit. Classic egg combos (including hash or steak and eggs with the option of expertly seasoned, rough-cut home fries ) are balanced out by no-carb choices and fresh fruit plates. Carb-free omelettes are also on hand, along with a create-your-own option, which offers some welcome fillings like broccoli, feta, Mediterranean-inspired gyro meat and fresh shrimp. But the biggest breakfast draws have to be the Kokotis’ fantastic Eggs Benedict, Eggs Florentine and Maryland Crab Cakes Benedict, a unique combination of flavors Muffin customers count as an all-time favorite.

In addition to two daily homemade soups (one, like the popular tomato basil — made with ingredients grown by the Kokotises themselves — is usually a vegetarian choice), the Muffin’s lunch menu features several cooked-to-order entrees and a wide variety of burgers and sandwiches. Entrees like tender ahi tuna (served with fresh steamed vegetables), mahi mahi and wild salmon (all of which can be prepared either blackened or grilled and added to any one of their generous salads), reveal the Kokotis’ love of seafood, while the inclusion of old fashioned meat loaf; hot, open-faced roast turkey or roast beef (served with mashed potatoes and gravy); chicken breast topped with grilled mushrooms, onions and Swiss, and one of the best country fried steaks in the County offer nods to more traditional American recipes. All entrees come with a choice of soup, salad or vegetables.

Sandwiches (served on white, wheat, rye or croissant with sides like cottage cheese, fresh fruit, soup, salad, and cole slaw along with tasty fries and onion rings) are relegated into cold categories — including a number of hefty standards, as well as tuna, seafood salad and freshly roasted prime rib — and hot, of which the Monte Cristo is one of the more popular: deli-style ham and Swiss between two slices of French toast. There’s also a French dip with au jus; a 6-oz. grilled or blackened ribeye topped with onion rings; a mahi mahi or ahi tuna on a kaiser roll; grilled chicken; lamb or chicken gyros with delicious tzatziki; corned beef or pastrami Reubens; turkey or tuna melts; barbecue pork, and chicken or steak Philly-style hoagies. Burger choices happily include a patty melt with grilled onions and a healthy veggie burger served on a kaiser with a side of fresh fruit.

The Kokotises are also widely revered for their fresh-baked muffins, biscuits and whole pies, which is good news in light of the approaching Thanksgiving holiday. Expect apple; Key lime; “Chocolate Silk;” New York-style cheesecakes; a berry-laden “Fruit of the Forest” pie, and of course, their signature blueberry pie, packed full of Maine’s best. Special Thanksgiving pies can be ordered ahead in time for family feasts.

To many of us, the proverbial “home” of our childhood may be nothing more than a bittersweet memory. But it’s important to remember that home is also where the heart is, and the Blueberry Muffin stole ours with effortless ease.

The Blueberry Muffin is located at 1130 A1A in Indialantic and is open 7 days a week from 6:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. Call 725-7117 for take-out service and to order your Thanksgiving pies ahead.

View Larger Map

Roberto’s Little Havana

In Paris, it’s La Coupole. In New York, it’s the Russian Tea Room, and in London, it’s Rules. And to scores of locals and visitors, Roberto’s Little Havana is the similarly symbolic stomach of Cocoa Beach. And though some may argue in favor of other candidates, Roberto’s owner Roberto Barrial is, to many residents, the de facto face of the City.

Roberto Barrial isn’t a surfer, an engineer, or a local politician, but since he first opened Roberto’s doors in 1980, he’s influenced all of our lives through his beloved eatery. For nearly 30 years, Roberto’s Little Havana has served as the nexus of daily life in Cocoa Beach. It’s been the backdrop to heated political debate, civic discussions, avowals of love and heartbreak, and the scene of perhaps thousands of business deals, reunions, celebrations and gatherings. For many, it’s also been a trusted early morning haven after maybe one too many glasses of jubilation the night before. Whether you go in for one of those bracing breakfasts, a quick lunch or a leisurely dinner, you’ll always run into someone you know at Roberto’s. More often than not, that someone is a favorite server who welcomes you into the extended Barrial clan.

Barrial, who came to the area from Pinar del Rio in flight from the tumultuous Cuba of 1963, worked for several hotels and restaurants around town before opening Roberto’s on the site of the old Lynn’s Coffee Shop, just around the corner from City Hall in the heart of downtown Cocoa Beach. Starting out by serving strictly traditional American breakfasts, Barrial decided to test some of the traditional Cuban recipes he enjoyed throughout his youth after catering a Cuban-themed party in one of the dining rooms. The party — and the food he prepared from recipes handed down through generations — proved a resounding success, and in 1994, Barrial first introduced the Cuban menu that has since made he and his restaurant so famous.

Today, with his son Robert, Jr., and a garrulous staff peppered with friends and family, Roberto serves up traditional Cuban and Cuban-American-inflected dishes in homage to the food he grew up with back home. Cuban food is, at its core, simple stick-to-your-ribs fare. Yet despite its reputation as one of the least spicy of Latin American cuisines, what it lacks in comparative zing is more than made up for in deep, diplomatically subtle flavor.

Reflective of the fruits of a fertile land and ever-present economic constraints, Cuban cooking is an intricate improvisation on whatever happens to be in the cupboard. While many contemporary fusion-influenced chefs attempt to spruce up Cuban dishes with modern twists, the results are usually far from satisfying. It’s best to resign yourself to Cuban cooking’s blue-collar roots, the better to savor the rich shades of flavor at work, shades formed by a long history of indigenous peoples, Caribbean immigrants and European colonists.

If you haven’t been introduced to Cuban food — which, since its introduction here, has become as Floridian as key lime pie — there are over 150 items on Roberto’s menu to greet you. If you’re a longtime fan of the island’s fare, you won’t be disappointed by the wealth of obscure choices (like sea-fresh Spanish paella or the solomillo a la braza — deliciously marinated flame-seared flank steak), nor by the fabulous way they’ve been prepared. Put Roberto’s up against any august Miami or Tampa-based Cuban eatery, and it’s sure to come out on top. Many Cuban Americans claim that Roberto’s is as close you can get to Havana without running afoul of the law.

Cuban food would be nothing without sofrito — a kind of roux or masala — a salsa-like base of chopped onion, green and red pepper, garlic, oregano and ground pepper simmered in olive oil. It’s the scaffolding for many of Roberto’s dishes and, when paired with other secret ingredients, gives each item a character all its own. Here, sofrito informs nearly every choice — from fresh seafood dishes, beans and rice, and excellent pork and chicken preparations — but the most loyal devotees come for Roberto’s phenomenal steaks.

Bistec, usually a sirloin or flank steak, comes in many forms here, but a favorite is the palomilla: thinly-sliced, tenderized, marinated in a secret citrus-garlic mojo mixture and pan-fried to perfection. Roberto’s enormous bistec empanizado is another huge lure; breaded and pan-fried, it becomes a bistec milanesa when topped with ham, melted cheese, and an Italian-inspired tomato salsa. Boliche mechado (eye of round slices stuffed with chorizo and sautéed in tomato sauce) also has some loyal adherents, but none so devoted as the ropa vieja lovers. Ropa vieja (“old clothes” in Spanish), shredded flank steak simmered in sofrito and tomato sauce is prepared in much the same way as the ground beef that makes up the picadillo, yet worlds apart in texture and flavor. Many of these preparations are redesigned with chicken, not so much as concession to beef doubters, but for lovers of rich flavor and nuance. This same care is given to a wide selection of seafood, soups, sandwiches and stews, and even carries over to Roberto’s beloved traditional American breakfasts.

All proper lunch and dinner entrées (both for lunch and dinner) are served with a choice of white or yellow saffron-tinged rice, black beans or a soup of the day, and maduros or tostones. Maduros, sautéed ripe sweet plantains become crispy tostones when they’re taken green and pounded into flat disks and deep-fried. Yuca, a potato-like root vegetable, is a favorite of ours and just one of many on Roberto’s list of appetizers, which has recently been expanded to include papas rellena (beef-stuffed potato pouches), croquetas, and empanadas. A sample party platter serves five (or a hungry pair) with a sampling of four selections: croquetas, tostones, carnitas and yuca frita. Similarly, the lunch menu offers a “Classic Cuban Sampler,” which includes ropa vieja, roast pork a la Cubana and picadillo.

So, in the search of the soul of a place, it’s sometimes better to look beyond the garish facades and tourist-friendly claims to fame. The guides might direct you to the Pier or to the beach, but you need only follow the aroma of sizzling sofrito to find the city locals know and love. It’s at Roberto’s Little Havana, a true Cocoa Beach institution.

Roberto’s Little Havana is located at 26 N. Orlando Ave. in the heart of downtown Cocoa Beach. Roberto’s is open 7 days a week from 7 a.m. to 3 p.m. for breakfast and lunch. Dinner hours are Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday and Sunday from 5 p.m. to 9 p.m., and Friday and Saturday from 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. In addition to traditional desserts and a great selection of wines, imported bottles of beer, and sangria, Roberto’s offers several lunch and dinner specials daily. Call 784-1868 to place orders ahead for pickup or to find out about catering service. You can view their menu online at www.robertoslittlehavana.com.

View Larger Map

When you’ve visited as many restaurants as we have for this feature, it should come as no surprise that there are times when you find yourself getting a bit jaded — even, dare I say it, snobbish — when it comes to dining out. The relative dearth of dining options in the area is sometimes reason enough, however misguided, to shower the newest place with effusive praise.

Now there are basically two kinds of food snobs out there: those who look down their noses at anything that doesn’t sound stylishly foreign or high-falutin’, and those who use terms like “high-falutin’” when describing those snobs. Being the revolutionary free-thinkers we are here at the Resident, we subscribe to neither camp officially, but rather allow our snobbery to come and go with the intermittent coastal breezes. One day it’s Sole Meunière, the next it’s smoked mullet po’ boys.

But by the time we set out to review Tonic in Indian Harbour Beach, several factors had conspired to give us some preconceived notions about the place. It’s not that we were completely set against it before we arrived, but we definitely thought we had the place pegged after stopping by to peek through the window before they officially opened some months ago. Judging from the sleek, modernist exterior and minimalist interior, the food, so we reckoned, was sure to be overwrought, the staff imperious, and the prices astronomical. Scanning the empty dining room, we conjured ghosts of slick young clientele preening over each others’ shoulders at their own imagined reflections to allay their complexes about not living in Los Angeles or Manhattan.

(I dunno, we have active imaginations. Or maybe it was just the heat and the fact that we hadn’t eaten.)

So hours before we were scheduled to arrive a few weeks back, a trusted friend and seasoned diner grew simply giddy when we told him we were off to Tonic. “You’ve got to try their hamburgers,” he said. “They’re unreal.” In light of our first incomplete impression, we thought that surely by “hamburger” he meant “slider,” that miniature aberrance hipsters have developed to ease the painful shame of eating something so pedestrian as a beef patty sandwich. “Sure,” we told the friend, “we’ll try the hamburger,” and snickered knowingly under our breath. That we did in fact enjoy one of the best bona fide burgers we’ve ever had later that night isn’t the whole punch line though, but rather that Tonic turned each of our unfair prejudices on its head within moments of our crossing the threshold.

Greeted by disarming Bar Manager Shawn Thompson, we were quickly made to feel at home in environs that, while sleek, succeeded more in exuding relaxed, comfortable elegance than the alienation we expected. This lack of decorative clutter, framed out by earthy grays, browns and mustards, brings focus to the matter at hand, which in Tonic’s case is sensational food and drink over empty image. Sitting around us from our vantage point at the bar were not the self-absorbed wraiths we’d imagined, but diners from all walks of life wearing casual attire. Meeting one of our favorite chefs, the accomplished Jason Clark (whose Magnolia, late of Satellite Beach, we lovingly featured a few years ago), forced us to reconsider our first, ill-chosen position before we even tasted the food. If Jason was back in Tonic’s kitchen, then this was sure to be a phenomenal meal. Feeling more than a little sheepish, we thought it best to direct our attention to ordering.

The food here at Tonic is best described as “Contemporary American.” All dishes are given some light fusion flourishes to create upscale variations of beloved comfort food using local, seasonal ingredients, many of them organic. Taking the concept an ingenious step further, Tonic offers each entree in two separately (and very reasonably) priced portions — larger, traditional helpings and smaller “tapas”-sized portions to encourage sampling a number of them, thereby getting the most out of an opulent menu. And it’s something you’ll definitely want to take advantage of because it gives you a delightful overview of Tonic’s highly varied style in one very memorable sitting.

And since choosing just two items was the hardest part, we opted for smaller portions of several signature dishes after some excellent flatbread bruschetta. Topped with sweet heirloom tomatoes, balsamic, and perfectly-paired got and Manchego cheeses, it offered alluring hints as to what we’d discover throughout the course of our meal. After some pistachio crusted sushi-grade tuna (prepared with sweet chili sauce and a creamy coconut lemon risotto topped with torched green bananas), we dug into another recommendation from a friend, the Serrano ham-wrapped chicken, served with a citrus and red pepper coulis, seasonal vegetables (including perfectly roasted fingerling potatoes), balsamic and crispy garlic. We could do little but scan the other choices and slather at the rich verbiage used to describe them as we still had to save room for this burger, you’ll remember.

But while much menu verbiage can often be a great divider, the descriptors used by Tonic are intended to equalize. It’s this idea of taking fine dining from the exclusive associations with the cultured and the well-heeled and back to the people, and there’s something here for everybody. The versatility you find in things like poached sea bass (prepared with vanilla vinaigrette, fingerling potato hash and wilted seasonal greens) and lobster mac n’ cheese are presented with words that elucidate and inspire. Where other places offer intimidation and obfuscation on their menus, Tonic offers a playful invitation to discovery.

And the invitation is hard to refuse with things like seafood bisque; carpaccio salad with candied walnuts and Roquefort vinaigrette; blue crab and avocado salad, daily made soups; and hot appetizers like lobster beignets, tamarind braised short ribs, honey bourbon bbq quesadillas, apple tempura chicken and blue crab gratin. A range of cold appetizers include balsamic-glazed tuna tartare, crab summer rolls, a wild mushroom salad, roasted red pepper salad served with goat cheese, and our favorite: “A Study in Cheeses,” comprised of five artisanal cheese accompanied by house-made preserves and relishes.

Other entrées consist of things like green tea smoked Muscovy duck (with butternut squash, a tapioca blini, tart cherries and Seville orange broth); grilled flank steak (with a spring onion brulée, vegetables and a ruby port glace); Kona coffee marinated pork loin; cherry chutney-crusted lamb chops with a sweet potato purée; fire-roasted lobster tail with lavender butter and orange oil, and the crispy filet mignon prepared with cocoa sauce and served with a wild mushroom tart, roasted seasonal vegetables and fennel.

But as distracted as we were by these, we had to sink our teeth into one of Tonic’s “unreal” burgers. With toppings like pancetta and Havarti, balsamic mushrooms and Manchego, roasted peppers and Brie, and aged cheddar with honey glazed bacon, we knew we were in for something special. Striding into the arrival lounge like the distant European cousin you expected to be a little fruity, but who turns out to be a huge, fully-bearded captain of his local rugby team who works part time throwing kegs around at the brewery, these burgers are, to be fair, a bit unreal. Sure they’re wearing sweaters tied over their shoulders (Brie? Havarti?) and smell of cologne (that’d be the truffle oil they’ve been drizzled with), but make no mistake, these burgers make one hell of an imposing impression. Made with all-natural fresh beef and served on a large, house-made roll (all tonics bread is baked in-house), they taste even better.

Now if they’d been sliders, we could have tried them all in one go. But what would have been the pleasure in that?

Tonic, one of the most exciting additions to the Brevard dining scene, begs repeated visits — and wide open minds.

Tonic is located at 1906 Hwy. A1A in Indian Harbour Beach, 1/2 mile north of Eau Gallie Blvd. directly in front of the Lowe’s Shopping Center. Current summer hours are Monday through Thursday from 4:30 p.m. to 10 p.m. and Fridays and Saturdays from 4:30 p.m. till 11 p.m., with the bar staying open till the wee hours when when the evening is hopping. In addition to their soups, salads, appetizers, and entrees, they also serve an excellent selection of sandwiches made on bread baked in-house daily. In keeping with their devotion to the freshest seasonal ingredients, expect a daily roster of chef’s specials and a rotating selection of season-inspired desserts, including things like port wine-poached apple tarts and hazelnut fig bread pudding, and others made with fruits like Seckel pears and Ranier cherries. Seating is available both indoors and outside on their spacious patio. Tonic has already established a reputation as one of the best full-liquor bars around. Boasting a casually elegant bar area that’s abuzz with good vibes, Tonic is renowned for a host of inventive martinis and other cocktails. They offer a great selection of wines (many varieties are available by the glass) and beer, and celebrate Happy Hour monday through Friday from 4:30 p.m. to 7 p.m., featuring $2.50 domestics, $3.50 imports, $3 calls, $5 martinis and $1 off all wine selections. Tonic hosts small live music performances Fridays and Saturdays from 8 p.m. to 11 p.m. View their entire menu online at www.tonicstateofmind.com. Phone 622-8909 to make reservations.

Since 1994, Gregory’s has been the place for steak on Cocoa Beach.

Countless locals and myriad returning visitors (thanks to Gregory’s attachment to the Ocean Landings Resort) trust Brigitte Krause, Head Chef/Owner Klaus Krause and Chef Jason Tavernier to provide them with some of the best-cooked steaks in the county.

Of all the world’s dishes, it seems none incites more passion than steak. If you’re Klaus and Jason, you have to assume that everyone who comes in is a steak “expert.” Steak lovers know how they like their steaks cooked from having cooked them themselves, usually after an extended period of trial and error or based on indelible memories various filets engendered during their lifetime. The problem is that it’s often too much of a bother to prepare steak for yourself once the hankering’s on you. What’s more, unless you have the number of a trusted butcher (it’s frequently filed in close proximity to that of your mechanic), it’s unlikely you’ll get a nice cut to begin with.

So what do you do? You set out to find someone you unfairly expect to fulfill all your unattainable steak desires, only to criticize the finished product (well after you’ve cleaned your plate, of course). No, I can’t think of a more thankless task than trying to please a crowd of hungry customers with my cooking. It takes far more mettle than I’ve got, so it’s not without some degree of awe that I regard Gregory’s — and Chefs Krause and Tavernier’s heroic reputation.

I noted this inevitable pitfall when interviewing them, and they humbly conceded that out of, say, 200 steaks they prepare to specification, about 1 or 2 come back to be re-cooked. Considering the persnickitiness of your average diner, this is an impressive statistic to say the least. But what’s even more impressive is that while Gregory’s reputation rests on steak, Krause and Tavernier apply the same attention to every other item they offer. So what you get, then, is not simply a great steakhouse, but a stellar restaurant whose success also hinges on the versatility and variety of its well-appointed menu.

This versatility also extends to Gregory’s fetching setting, a place that’s as old-world classy as it is unpretentiously casual. I, for one, have found Gregory’s to be a great spot for a number of different occasions: a romantic dinner for two; a treat for visiting relatives; a quick appetizer with friends before heading upstairs for a comedy show; and a large-scale employee Christmas dinner. Over the years, we’ve enjoyed the bulk of the dishes on their menu, but we’ve found that each deserves revisiting and new discoveries are always waiting in the wings.

Head Chef Krause, originally from Germany (as is mother and founder Brigitte and sister Jutta of Cape Canaveral’s Izzy’s Bistro), began learning his trade when Gregory’s first opened under their first chef, Victor. His Continental background and strict eye for detail helps appeal to the many European visitors who come to eat here. But he counts the quality of the meat Gregory’s chooses as the main factor in his success. Cocoa Beach native Chef Tavernier, for his part, began cooking here 6 years ago after studying at the renowned Cordon Bleu. Together, the pair oversee the cutting of their well-marbled Certified Angus Beef and make sure everything that comes out of their kitchen — whether it’s a 10 oz. House Filet (grilled and topped with a Guinness sauce and fried oysters) or Thai chicken dumplings — is of superior quality.

Tavernier himself credits his Vietnamese wife with turing him onto Asian flavors, and several items are given a Pan-Pacific flourish. Like those Thai chicken dumplings (served with a sweet chile sauce), Asian slaw accompanies their seared ahi tuna, just a few of the choices on Gregory’s starter menu. Others include garlic shrimp (served with a Cajun jerk sauce), escargot, a cooly fresh Caprese salad, and one of their signature dishes: the hugely popular Lobsteraki, five pieces of Maine lobster wrapped in bacon and glazed with rich teriyaki sauce. A selection of house-made soups and salads ensures that you’ll start your meal off on the right foot.

While they’re not the sole focus of Gregory’s menu, their steaks are too delicious to pass up. A wide variety of preparations are on hand here: the 12 oz. baseball-cut top sirloin; the New York strip (both 12 and 16 oz. cuts are offered); filet mignon (8 or 12 oz.) served with béarnaise, and Gregory’s 20-22 oz. Porterhouse. Teriyaki, Diane, peppercorn, black beer, Oscar or creamy cognac sauce can be added to each for a small charge. Other beef items make appearances on their list of house specialties — prime rib; the Delmonico ribeye (served on caramelized onions and topped with bleu cheese butter); steak Diane (with Dijon brandy sauce); steak tornados Oscar (medallions of tenderloin topped with crabmeat stuffing, asparagus and Hollandaise), steak au poivre (filet mignon prepared with a light brandy peppercorn sauce), as well as a traditional surf and turf option and “Land and Sea”: five broiled shrimp and a 12 oz. NY strip. Unique side dishes like asparagus and Hollandaise, twice-baked potato and sweet potato jack gratin make perfect accompaniments anything you order, but dinners come with a garden salad, fresh baked bread (a marvelous touch), and a choice of baked potato, roasted garlic mashed potatoes, wild rice, or french fries.

As much as we love Gregory’s steaks though, we’ve been finding ourselves more and more drawn by their great seafood selections. Among them, lobster tails; butterfly fried shrimp; salmon “in the weeds” (broiled over sautéed spinach with mushroom Dijon cream); fresh mahi mahi; a generous seafood platter; jumbo shrimp stuffed with crabmeat and scallops, and a seared, sesame-pepper sushi-grade tuna steak topped with a honey ginger glaze, stir-fried vegetables and jasmine rice. The best bet is their fresh catch, served broiled, char-grilled or blackened in two delectable styles: au Claire (a baby shrimp cream sauce garnished with lumpfish caviar) or St. Martin, which features a fruity mango citrus sauce.

Nightly specials include dishes like chicken Française, ruby-red carpaccio, pecan-crusted prok tenderloin, crabmeat-stuffed flounder, steak Cognac, burgundy beef tips and chicken teriyaki and Baguta (prepared with shiitakes, onions, garlic and tomatoes in a white wine cream) appear alongside pasta choices like shrimp scampi fettuccine and seafood Alfredo. Top any of these off with fresh-made desserts like Chocolate Suicide or Banana Split Cream Pie, or Key Lime, and you have the makings for several very reasonably-priced matches made in heaven.

But one of the best things about Gregory’s is the way it feels like it’s been around much longer than its 15-year lifetime. It’s an ambiance that doesn’t come easy, and a distinction that’s sure to see it through for 15 years to come.

Gregory’s Steak & Seafood Grille is located at 900 N. Atlantic Ave. in Cocoa Beach. They open nightly Monday through Saturday at 5 p.m.; Closed Sundays. The full liquor-equipped restaurant offers nightly chef’s specials and an Early Bird menu Monday through Thursday from 5 p.m. to 6 p.m. (excluding Holidays and special events). Ask about their “2 Dine for 49″ prix fixe menu. Their upstairs room above the restaurant is ideal for large parties, special events, banquets, weddings and fundraisers. Visit www.banquetsonthebeach.com for more details. Each Thursday, the upstairs becomes Gregory’s Comedy Club, featuring professional, nationally-touring comedians. The club provides full liquor service, a special late night menu, and preferred seating with dinner. Doors open at 7:30 p.m., shows start at 9. For more information on upcoming comedians, check this issue’s “Just for Laughs” section, or log on to: www.gregoryscomedyclub.com. To make dinner reservations or to purchase tickets, call 799-2557. Visit www.gregorysonthebeach.com to view Gregory’s full dinner menu.

In one of the most referenced, praised, and unread books in the world of literature, Marcel Proust’s “Remembrance of Things Past,” it’s the chance bite of a madeleine, a small, scallop-shaped cake, that spurs the author on a 7-volume rediscovery of his youth.

The episode proved so resonant that “a madeleine” has since become synonymous with any sensory agent that seems to magically evoke a flood of memories. I myself have several madeleines — the smell of geraniums, old Peter Sellers films, and Captain Crunch cereal among them — yet their real beauty lies not in the memories they awaken, but in their inherent latency. For each one you discover, there’s another that remains concealed, just waiting for some prosaic moment to rear its fantastic head.

Take the “Ace” I first bit into a few years back at Doubles Beachside in Indian Harbour Beach. Immediately upon tasting the heavenly combination of ham, capicola, salami, provolone and peppers laced with oil and vinegar, I was transported back to Hobbit Hoagies, a place I’d almost completely forgotten. We first stopped at Hobbit Hoagies during a childhood visit to my aunt and uncle’s in Tallahassee, steered in by the name and the sight of Bilbo Baggins brandishing his dagger in one hand and a plump sandwich in the other. It became tradition, even obligation, to eat our first meal there on every subsequent trip.

Later hoagies never quite replicated the subtlety of those flavors; the texture of their bread either too spongy or dry, and the atmosphere where you purchased them never as cozy. As time went on, I forgot about Hobbit Hoagies and even hoagies in general, having given them up as pale imitators of the ones I held so close to my heart. That is, until I tried Doubles’ versions. Suddenly I was 11 again (though considerably less spotty), free from care and at one with delicious discovery. It was a truly remarkable moment, but not nearly as remarkable as the one that was about to unfold.

You can imagine my shock when, during our interview for this feature, Doubles Beachside owner Ray Featherhoff revealed that he worked at the very same Hobbit Hoagies my family used to frequent — and may have may even served us during that era. This was a kind of madeleine within a madeleine, then; a new facet within a phenomenon wrapped up in a marvel. It was then that I began to realize that everyone who enjoys Doubles’ food might well be sharing that same experience of recovered memory. And surely new madeleines were being engendered in the many children there that day, perhaps to be forgotten as the years rolled on, then rediscovered in adulthood. The thought isn’t much of a stretch, because Featherhoff has built Doubles around the food he himself grew up on, and the effect seems to have rubbed off on all who count it as their home away from home.

Featherhoff got his start in the business working at the famous Peg Leg’s during high school, and later at Hobbit Hoagies while attending FSU. After graduation, his Hobbit co-worker and roommate enlisted Featherhoff to help him out with MASH Hoagies. After going their separate ways 27 years ago, Featherhoff opened the original Doubles across the street from its current location in front of the Lexington Hotel on South Patrick. At that original spot, Doubles quickly filled a gaping void for locals in search of quick, healthy sustenance, something it continues to do today. Featherhoff and his friendly staff have been here close to four years now, and all enjoy the enlarged 12,00 square-foot building, which offers space for two bars — a media-equipped sports bar and a more laid-back tiki bar that also sees live music performances every night of the week — and two dining areas, one of which includes a huge banquet room where many local teams gather after games and alumni from all over the county hold class reunions.

If there ever were a true, community-minded and family-friendly restaurant in the area, its Doubles. Enticed by a variety of sandwiches, wraps, wings and salads, people love the simplicity of its menu and the swiftness with which each healthy, fresh-tasting order is prepared. Hoagies are what Doubles is known for, but available styles, while adaptable according to taste, are kept to a refreshingly efficient minimum. Regulars count the Ace as a favorite, but each of the others — all made on a choice of white or whole wheat roll with mayonnaise; hot or sweet peppers; lettuce; tomatoes; pickles and onions — has its strong supporters. Any hoagie can be customized and ordered in a half-size, and particular affection is reserved for the generous veggie and new chicken salad hoagies.

Wings (served mild, medium or hot with optional teriyaki garlic sauce) are sold here by the boatload, as are wraps, Doubles’ famous racquet fries and nachos, daily-made soups and chili, and a selection of hot, grilled sandwiches, including burgers, meatball subs and a chicken cheesesteak, served with mayo, marinara sauce, and a tangle of grilled mushrooms, peppers and onions. Doubles also fills a niche for those in search of fresh, hearty salads available in small or large portions. I myself can’t count how many times I’ve been in search of one that doesn’t involve a lengthy wait. Here at Doubles, I’ve found exactly the kind of salad options I’ve been craving. Featuring a wide choice of homemade dressings (ranch, bleu cheese, fat free Italian, lite ranch, Greek and balsamic vinaigrettes), styles range from a generous garden, a Greek, Casear, and the excellent Havana: red cabbage; warm rice; cheddar; black beans and salsa; and sour cream and tortilla chips, with the option of adding jalapeño peppers and guacamole. What’s more, any salad can be topped with chicken or mahi.

Children are catered to with a selection of “mini-meals,” which include fries and a drink, and smoothies and frozen yogurt keep diners lingering well past their planned departure times. A selection of coffee drinks and desserts like fresh cheesecakes and pies have recently been added to the menu, but as we went to print, no authentic madeleines had joined the roster.

No matter, though. Everything at Doubles Beachside is guaranteed to produce that same magical madeleine effect.

Doubles Beachside is located at 1896 S. Patrick Dr. in Indian Harbour Beach. They serve food from 10:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday through Saturday, and Sundays from 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. Throughout the week, their sports bar is open from 10:30 a.m. till ?, and their outdoor tiki bar is open everyday from 5 p.m. till ? Each day sees a low-priced daily special that comes with tasty racquet fries and a drink — Mondays: chicken tenders; Tuesday: cheeseburgers; Wednesdays: chicken or beef cheesesteaks; Thursdays: half-Ace hoagies; Fridays: half-tuna hoagies; Saturday: a two-hot dog special, and on Sundays you can enjoy $1 off any of their smoothies. Contact them to either host your large event in their large banquet room or to cater your next large gathering. They also make special 3-foot hoagies which serve 22 people, as well as 6-foot varieties, which serve 45. Happy Hour is celebrated in both their full-liquor tiki and sports bars (the sports bar features 14 televisions on which to watch all your favorite games) every day from 5 p.m. to 7 p.m. Doubles also hosts live music every night. Call them at 773-5341 to find out who’s playing and to place orders in ahead. Please allow 48 hours notice for giant party hoagie orders. Doubles Beachside can be found online at: www.doublesbeachside.com

View Larger Map

If any nation lives up to its hospitable reputation, it’s Jamaica, and Montego Bay native Trevor Dixon is the perfect ambassador for the friendliest tropical isle in the world. To be fair, Jamaica isn’t without its share of problems, but he’s the right man to remind you of the good things; those things that keep you smiling when all about you is enveloped in gloom.

And the weather was pretty gloomy the day we visited Trevor, chef and owner of Trevor’s Blue Toucan, in his new digs at 8501 Astronaut Blvd. (A1A) in Cape Canaveral. Previously, Trevor was operating in a much smaller place in a relatively obscure location near the northern A1A split. We stopped by after he first opened there in 2007, and we got the sense that he was meant for bigger and better things. It turns out we were right, and judging from the look of the Blue Toucan’s new location, the future, with all its bright possibility, is in Trevor’s able hands.

At the new and improved Blue Toucan (right across from United Space Alliance), Trevor and his wife Siegrid have reproduced a little slice of the Caribbean, replete with a raised wooden verandah dining area looking out over a tropical trompe l’oeil vista. The main dining room serves as “the beach,” then, and just beyond is a small stage on which steel drummers play on Fridays and Saturdays. The airy, 2,400 square-foot space is bathed in warm, Caribbean pastels and can accommodate up to 50 diners. What’s more, it offers the ebullient Trevor plenty of room to mingle with happy customers.

Trevor’s been cooking for over 30 years, for elite restaurants at exclusive Jamaican resorts, as a cruise line chef recruited to bring the first two Disney vessels into service from Italy and, prior to opening the Blue Toucan, as the managing chef at the Atlantic Ocean Grille on the Cocoa Beach Pier. “I can cook any style,” he says confidently. “Japanese, Italian, French, American, German; let me know what you want, and I can make it. When I ask him what kind of food he likes cooking the most, he replies without hesitation, “I can’t answer. Everything.”

Cooking for tourists from a variety of locales and traditions has always been his forte, but here he makes the food that’s closest to his heart. And at the Blue Toucan, you’ll find everything that makes Jamaican cuisine such an ideal accompaniment to all the beachside’s varied pleasures.

From jerk pork and chicken, to curried goat and even ackee (Jamaica’s national dish), the Blue Toucan fulfills Trevor’s aim to provide a unique combination of flavors to those who love both Jamaican and American food. The flavorful jerked and curried meats are mild without being bland. I tell him that most jerked food I’ve had is overly spicy — more blazing bonfire than reassuring ember. “I learned everything from my mother,” he tells me from his buffet-style hot line. “All you really need to begin with is salt and pepper. People think that Jamaican food is spicy, spicy, spicy, and they go crazy with peppers. Yes, it’s a little spicy, but you can taste my food. The spices aren’t so strong that you can’t taste the flavor of the meat. You want to eat the food, not be cryin’ the whole time.”

His hot line (which is always well-stocked for lunch) features jerk pork and beef, oxtail, curry chicken, along with sides like delicious, coconut milk-laced rice and red beans, collard greens, stewed cabbage, Jamaican meat patties, macaroni and cheese, and fried sweet plantains. Main dishes from here come with a choice of two sides and three of his famous homemade sauces — mango salsa, hot “Fireball,” and his famous jerk sauce. Trevor makes everything from scratch, down to the scrumptious cakes — like coconut, mango, and guava cheesecake — on display in the nearby deli case. It’s an enormous amount of work for one man, but if anyone can handle it, it’s Trevor. That it’s handled with such boundless love and enthusiasm is simply astounding.

The Blue Toucan’s larger space is reflected in his revamped menu. Don’t worry, all the favorites are still there — things like jerked, barbecued and curried meat dishes (including curried goat), beef stew, fish prepared all manner of ways, soups (including clam chowder, red bean, French onion and Caribbean pumpkin), burgers, and homemade Jamaican and American deli sandwiches. While the hotline is an irresistible new addition, the most exciting development is Trevor’s dinner menu. You’ll find appetizers like fresh, peel-and-eat shrimp, crab cakes, conch fritters, and crab-stuffed mushroom caps.

Seafood entrees feature whole steamed snapper, snow crab leg clusters, a fresh grilled or blackened catch-of-the-day (usually grouper, mahi, or cobia), seafood pasta, and the “Captain’s Bounty”: lobster tail, fish, and shrimp served with melted butter, mango salsa and cocktail sauce. There’s also prime rib “Caribe,” T-bone steak, and other beef items, curried goat, shrimp or chicken, pork dishes, baked chicken “Tropicale” (stuffed with homemade dressing and topped with grilled pineapple and Trevor’s pineapple ginger sauce), and Red Stripe chicken, wood-roasted and basted with Jamaica’s famous beer. All dinner entrees come with a choice of soup or salad and two of those excellent sides. In addition, Trevor offers several daily specials for lunch and dinner. Try anything off the menu once, and you’ll be hooked.

As Trevor placed some curry chicken on my plate with an almost magical gesture, he beckons me closer, the better to relay the thought that seems to have been wafting through his mind since we arrived. “Let me tell you something,” he whispers. “This is the closest you can get to Jamaica without flying there.”

And he’s right.

Trevor’s Blue Toucan is located at 8501 Astronaut Blvd. (A1A) in Cape Canaveral across from United Space Alliance. They’re open Monday through Friday for lunch from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. and for dinner from 5 to 8. Trevor barbecues every Saturday from 11 to 6 p.m. Firday and Saturdays see live steel drum music inside. Draughts (checkers) can be played on a small table near the door; so far, no one’s been able to beat Trevor at the game. Check back with us for news on a planned breakfast menu, delivery service and the development of their outdoor Toucan Terrace. The Blue Toucan’s beer and wine license gives them the opportunity to provide select bottled beers, hard-to-find imported wines, and wine-based frozen drinks like margaritas, pina coladas, and daquiris. Kids can enjoy frozen fruit smoothies and “virgin” version of adult drinks as well. Call your order in ahead — 784-5300 or via fax at 784-5510 — and ask about their catering service. Chef Trevor has a wealth of experience in creating a memorable event and custom menu for every budget — from casual family picnics children’s parties and reunions or professional business meetings to formal, upscale weddings. He’s also adept with hand-carved vegetable and fruit displays. Call to schedule your free planning appointment.

View Larger Map

My problem with reality shows isn’t so much that they elevate mundane events to the level of high Greek tragedy, the fact that they choose to uglify subjects that are often far better left alone, nor the way they’ve changed the very nature of editing for continuity’s sake into an insidious strain of Orwellian illusionism, but how they’ve let someone like Gordon Ramsay convince millions of viewers that they might know a thing or two about running a restaurant.

The famously prickly restaurateur’s hit reality show, “Gordon Ramsay’s Kitchen Nightmares,” finds him bursting into floundering eateries and turning them almost overnight into must-visit hotspots. “Nightmares” posits the notion that a restaurant which is unable to live up to Ramsay’s high and almighty standards (and there are many such places, apparently, no matter how many people don’t seem to mind them) can be made successful simply by the injection of several hundred thousand dollars-worth of design, equipment and vendor improvements, tossing the expired milk, and, of course, allowing Chef Ramsay himself to revamp their menu from the ground up, effectively making what was once Phil’s Eats another Gordon Ramsay restaurant. Which, in some respects, makes him a bit like the Peruvian bot fly, but with mussier hair.

Now I’m sure Ramsay does actually know what he’s talking about, because he’s wildly successful and has his own television show that tells us so, but it doesn’t mean that people should fancy themselves New York Times food critics after merely having seen a few episodes. It’s always easier to criticize something than praise it, as we all know, so in the spirit of turning the aphorism on its ear, I suggest creating a show called “Gordon Ramsay’s Kitchen Dreams,” in which he strolls into a place, enjoys a good meal, extends his compliments to the staff and chef, leaves a 20% tip and grabs a toothpick before going home to tell all his friends what a good time he had. He could film the first episode of “Kitchen Dreams” at Izzy’s Bistro in Cape Canaveral.

Knowing Ramsay, he’d probably re-fold his napkin into a swan playing a golden harp or ask the server to remove an ice cube or two from his water, but I believe he’d find himself struggling to come up with negative comments. Because Izzy’s, you see, is one of those rare restaurants that, while elegant, harbors no delusions of grandeur.

What Izzy’s does, it does well — something that might sound like faint praise if applied to a host of more mediocre local restaurants, but in the case of Izzy’s, the commendation covers every facet of the dining experience they provide. Here, the casualness you expect from a beachside restaurant meets with up-scale decor and ambience, and tried-and-true items are given refined and creative twists, from the time they’re conceived to the moment they appear at your table in stunning presentation. And that might be the secret of Izzy’s charm — the feeling that you’re getting something so special in an area that, according to some threads of logic, should be a lap or two behind the culinary times. As you take some of your first bites, that feeling morphs into undisputed fact, because Izzy’s is special — not for what it outshines, but for what it confidently presents.

Run by Jutta Rose, daughter of Brigitte Krause and sister to Chef Klaus, both of whom are behind Cocoa Beach’s vaunted Gregory’s, Izzy’s takes its name from Jutta’s daughter, 4-year-old Isabella. While much initial coverage has been given to Izzy’s inclusion of German dishes (most of which are served as weekend specials), it’s more correct to describe their menu as Continental, with generous flourishes of classic American influence woven in for good measure. Since Izzy’s opened in 2008, they’ve gone on to win praise for their skilled seafood preparations and their popular Tuna Tuesdays.

It’s all about the moment at Izzy’s — or rather, a succession of delightful moments that begin with their well-chosen appetizers. While generously portioned, each fulfills the appetizer’s aim of enticing both the palate and provoking interest in the remainder of the evening’s meal. Items include a jumbo shrimp cocktail; calamari fritti; char-grilled fresh sea scallops (in a red curry lobster cream with crispy wonton); roasted duck spring rolls; smoked salmon in phyllo; fire-roasted chipotle shrimp (featuring a delicate orange-cilantro butter sauce); the excellent and beautifully arranged whiskey shrimp (char grilled with a hoisin whiskey glaze), and one of their more popular selections: Izzy’s escargot in a fresh garlic cream sauce with shiitake mushrooms. Further initial adventures are to be found with their soups de jour and large salads, to which can be added char-grilled chicken, shrimp, or seared ahi tuna. We had the delicious bistro goat cheese salad, comprised of mixed field greens, warmed golden brown goat cheese, toasted pine nuts and a sampling of fresh fruit laced with raspberry vinaigrette. We also recommend the incredible cioppino (rarely found outside of San Francisco, its reputed place of origin) — an herb tomato broth surrounding shrimp, scallops, lobster mussels and chunks of fish.

Pasta is well represented by herb scampi or chicken pesto over fettucine; a seafood pasta, lobster pad thai, and one of their house specialties: Izzy’s Alfredo (asparagus tips, shiitake and applewood-smoked bacon in alfredo over fettucine). Seafood lovers have plenty to get excited about, too. There’s hibachi salmon, fresh mahi in a variety of preparations, coconut shrimp, shrimp and herb-crusted tilapia and an enormous lobster pot pie, filled with chunks of lobster and vegetables in a subtle mornay sauce. Turf selections are covered by chimichurri sirloin medallions topped with grilled shrimp; the bistro filet (an 8-oz. char-grilled filet mignon encrusted with bleu cheese); a 14-oz. NY strip pan-seared and finished with a Jameson mushroom demi-glaze); chicken vin blanc, and chili-crusted pork tenderloin with roasted corn relish prepared in a mango-tequila glaze. Part of Izzy’s enthralling character comes from creative touches like the discerning wine list, house-made dressings, masterful sauces and the option of side items like smoked gouda potato gratin and asparagus in hollandaise sauce.

The Klause family’s German heritage shines through in the traditional wiener schnitzel (two types of which appear on the regular menu) and devotes a special Friday and Saturday menu option to things like rouladen (thinly-sliced sirloin stuffed with bacon, pickles, mustard and ground beef over cabbage); spaetzle; goulash; roasted duck in a black cherry cognac sauce, and schweinehaxe, a whole pork shank cured and roasted with garlic and caraway seed. Each Tuesday sees an added menu of tuna dishes, including sushi rolls; pan-seared tuna cutlets; sesame seared tuna, and a blackened tuna salad along with several other permutations. Izzy’s Tuesday sampler platter gives you a little bit of every concoction, perfect for sharing among friends.

It’s hard to find fault with a place that prides itself on simply serving great food in a pleasant atmosphere without all the folderol — principles, which if you believe Gordon Ramsay, only exorbitantly expensive restaurants in New York adhere to. Dining out at anywhere other than a place he’s given his golden touch isn’t the impending nightmare he’s made it out to be. In the case of Izzy’s Bistro, it’s the effortless dream it’s meant to be.

Izzy’s Bistro is located at 6615 N. Atlantic Ave. in Cape Canaveral in the Sunseed Co-Op Plaza. Happy Hour is celebrated in their bar area Monday through Friday from 4 to 7 p.m. Enjoy 2-4-1 house wines and Bud Light drafts and $7 appetizers (at the bar exclusively). In addition to boasting an impressive, affordable wine list, Izzy’s also features a wide selection of domestic and imported bottled beers as well as Stella Artois, Warsteiner, Yuengling and Blue Moon on draught. Select early bird specials are offered Monday through Thursday from 4 to 6 p.m. They’re open Monday through Saturday from 4 p.m. to 10 p.m. and are closed Sundays. Call 783-4548 for reservations or more information. To view their menu in its entirety or to make reservations online, visit www.izzysbistroflorida.com

View Larger Map

If you have trouble finding Gracie’s Café, blame Georges-Eugène Haussmann.

I know it’s a stretch, and rather unfair of me to attack a man who’s been dead for 118 years, but I hold the controversial urban planner wholly responsible for obscuring one of downtown Melbourne’s best eateries.

Under Napoleon III, Haussmann orchestrated the massive renovation of Paris that began in 1852 and continued in spurts for several years after his termination from the post in 1870. Called “The Haussmann Renovations,” or the “Haussmannization of Paris,” the colossal project saw the leveling of labyrinthine districts and tangled warrens of narrow streets and alleyways that had survived since the Middle Ages. As pleasing as Haussmann’s broad avenues and tree-lined boulevards were to aristocrats out for their daily promenades, they also happened to come in handy for controlling crowds of pesky, rioting peasants.

While the idea behind the undertaking — to make the city more sanitary and picturesque — was well-intentioned, it changed the way Parisians had meandered for centuries, effectively corralling them away from their concealed haunts and into main arteries of traffic and commerce. The populace has since adapted by revitalizing forgotten side streets and hidden neighborhoods that survived Haussmann’s project, leaving the boulevards for hordes of tourists and less imaginative citizens.

Humans are instinctive wanderers and curious explorers, which is why the “Main Street” phenomenon, however efficient, is bound in the end to fail. As more and more of these small downtowns start popping back up, the more people are inured to their linear logic, and veering off the beaten path is as unthinkable as parking four blocks away from all the action. Sure, you might peek down the Le Galleria for the Gracie’s Café sign, but if you don’t see it right away, then it mustn’t exist.

Le Galleria, the very kind of shopping arcade that arose, ironically, out of the scourge of Haussmania, hides a lot of surprises, not the least of which is T.J. and Kelly Mignona’s Gracie’s, an unassuming little café that’s one of New Haven Avenue’s best kept secrets. The open-air corridor that leads you there is like something you’d find in a casbah, and Gracie’s, with its outdoor tables set amid palms and sunlight, stands like a lush oasis at at the arcade’s center, a mere ten steps from the bustling avenue.

Even as you approach the facade of Gracie’s, you can’t help feeling that you’ve found someplace special. Bright, airy and colorful, this comfy eatery is a reflection of the owners’ laid-back personalities, and by extension, those of their daughters. Readers may know T.J. and Kelly Mignona from the 8 years they ran the equally inviting Breakfast at Lily’s in Satellite Beach, which was named after their eldest daughter. After serving what they reckon to be 298,600 meals during their tenure there, the Mignonas decided to try something more intimate and relaxed, and Gracie’s (named in honor of their youngest) is the wonderful result.

As we sat down to sample some of T.J.’c creations just shy of lunchtime, loyal customers began filing in with the air of people who’ve been looking forward to this moment since they first tumbled out of bed. We also detected slight looks of surprise that these new faces had stumbled upon their treasured haven. Classics from the ’60s played through the stereo, in keeping with the Hawaiian/surf-themed decor, eclectic, but never jarring artwork, and the vintage Coca Cola cooler behind the small bar counter. While greeting new arrivals with disarming cheer, our server Carla brought us generous plates of delicious breakfast — two eggs, chunky home fries, four strips of bacon, and a fluffy biscuit in my case, and for my friend, one of T.J.’s signature breakfast dishes: excellent eggs benedict with a slice of hash brown casserole, which is reason enough to drop in.

We were fortunate enough to try several other items before we left — all of which were value enough for their size, even more so for their incredible flavor. There was a huge slice of fresh vegetable quiche, a grilled Philly panini, and a roast beef and grilled zucchini sandwich with bleu cheese crumbles, onions and horseradish sauce. Other lunch items include several types of quesadillas (veggie, mahi, chicken, three cheese, shrimp, and N.Y. strip — a big favorite — served with chips and salsa), black-bean fajita burritos (served with a choice of the same aforementioned fillings and pico de gallo), and those delicious grilled paninis. Choose from the Reuben, hot pastrami, BLT, onion steak, or the tuna melt. There’s a half-panini and soup option as well. We recommend trying that with a bowl of T.J.’s lobster bisque.

Deli sandwiches are covered with a chicken eggplant mozzarella, a Cajun roast beef, a chicken salad, a deluxe Italian (with salami, ham, Swiss, glazed onions, sun-dried tomatoes and Italian seasoning), and many others, all reasonably priced. Gracie’s large salads are also enticing: spinach or caesar topped with your choice of grilled mahi or chicken, and a chicken bacon ranch salad. Baskets served with french fries include fried cod or three mahi tacos served with chips and salsa.

While Gracie’s is also known for its great burgers, especially its Hawaiian and Big Kahuna (glazed onions, spinach, tomatoes, cheddar and chipotle ketchup), breakfast has proven to exert an even stronger pull. There’s the two-egg combo with a variety of side options, the beloved eggs benedict, and huge, pan-cooked omelets, which can be filled with a choice of all the traditional ingredients, as well as some intriguing surprises like olives, feta, broccoli, asparagus, avocado, jalapenos, shrimp and mahi. Other items: quiche with fresh fruit and muffin, biscuits and gravy, pancakes, French toast, and cinnamon raisin French toast (topped with strawberries, blueberries, bananas, pecans or walnuts).

Everything at Gracie’s is made to order and prepared with special care, features that raise its food far above the level you’d expect from a humble little cafe hiding out in an overlooked side street. Or maybe what you would in fact expect from a place in that location. What the Mignonas have done is taken a potential obstacle and turned it into their greatest asset: effortless charm and generous reward for wandering away from the herd.

After all, isn’t that how all the best places are always found?

Gracie’s Café is located at 820 E. New Haven Ave. in downtown Melbourne, across from Melbourne Civic Theatre in Le Galleria arcade. They’re open Monday through Saturday from 8 a.m. to 3 p.m. and from 8 a.m. to 2 p.m. for their “Reggae Sundays” which are accompanied by island tunes. They’re also open late for dinner during downtown Melbourne’s frequent Friday Fests. Expect daily specials, coffee concoctions made with Douwe Egberts coffee, and two-for-one beers all day. Featured draught beers include Amber Bock, Miller Lite, and Blue Moon, and wine lovers can choose from merlot, chardonnay, or white zinfandel. Call 956-8414 for more information or to call in an order ahead for pickup.

View Larger Map

Because of the intense, almost consuming passion Matt’s food inspires among devotees, the four years separating the opening of that promised new venture felt decades longer. The degree of anticipation with which Brevardians have patiently attended the opening of Matt’s Casbah is akin to that felt by young Harry Potter acolytes awaiting the release of another installment.

Back in 1994, Matt opened Matt’s Tropical Grill in Indian Harbour Beach to comparatively little fanfare. Occupying the small corner of a homely shopping plaza, that first incarnation quickly outgrew its confines to expand nearly three-fold in seating size. Matt’s amazing dishes were surely a key impetus, but it’s more correct to credit success to his holistic approach to the dining experience. People flocked there regularly not so much for the food, but for the Grill’s decor, classy yet casual ambience, and attentive service — elements Matt wove together expertly into an refreshing, enthralling whole.

Even before hurricanes Frances and Gene slammed into the Grill, caving in its roof, Matt had begun seeking out new digs in downtown Melbourne, specifically, the site of vacant landmark Pop’s Casbah. After intensive renovations, Matt’s Casbah (named, touchingly, in homage of his predecessor) opened just a few months ago amid much jubilation, a momentous opening Matt likens to a family and high school reunion rolled into one.

If the appearance of what he reckons to be 98% of his old customer base (essentially kept, remember, despite a four-year hiatus) made the Casbah’s first day seem like a reunion, then the fact that Matt has managed to attract “100%” new clientele seals its reputation as one of the most popular and beloved restaurants on the Space Coast.

Where other owners would have been content to effectively erase the memory of Pop’s old dive, Matt’s endeared himself to the hearts of many by retaining facets of the service station’s design, keeping the signature sign intact, and decorating the restaurant with some of the original relics and wall hangings. But these are mere nods to the past. In keeping with his avowal that this is “the same old Matt’s of Tropical Grill fame — but entirely new,” the bright, golden interior features an outdoor patio, indoor/outdoor bar, tasteful, modern-tinged accoutrements and furnishings, a sleek sushi bar, and striking artwork by local artist Nemo. And while all of this conspires to create a dazzling spectacle, Matt’s food still serves as the centerpiece of a fantastic dining experience.

Growing up in the seafood mecca of Cape Cod and inspired by the flavors of his Italian/French Canadian heritage, Matt first began cooking in his mid teens. By that time, thanks to his father’s career in the foreign service, he’d already traveled extensively, and those travels inform the color, creativity and challenge his menu offers. In that sense, the Casbah’s menu reads like Matt’s personal travelogue, which has been dutifully updated since the Nugnes’ first relocation to Africa back in the late ’70s. Here, you’ll find the burnished spices of Nigeria, Kenya and Tanzania; the resourcefulness of Muskovite cuisine; the freshness of Costa Rican and Latin American preparations, and the spiciness of Thailand and South Asia.

Somewhere in the midst of those many voyages and stints working at restaurants both up north and abroad, Matt managed to earn a culinary degree from Johnson and Wales. By that time, of course, he’d already found a signature style, inflected with his love of Pacific Rim fusion, piquant spices, verdant herbs, uncommonly fresh seafood, and a knack for making disparate ingredients commingle into something entirely original and challenging.

But challenge, in the case of Matt’s, doesn’t imply difficulty or exertion of effort. What it does suggest is a nudge away from humdrum comfort toward discovery and adventure. That he’s trusted with introducing scores of diners to, say, tamarind, star anise, or basil chili sauce, more than qualifies him as an able guide. His food, then, is the actual journey.

As a kind of prologue, or briefing, appetizers include things like flash-seared calamari in lime chili sauce (a unanimous favorite), rustic flatbread pizza, yucca fries (served with three of Matt’s famous sauces — all of which here are house-made, along with virtually everything else), warm nutted goat cheese (with ginger cilantro dressing and pita points), and crunchy Asian dumplings with a sweet chili dipping sauce. Items from the bar menu are just as enticing — Bombay salad (grilled chicken breast with tart apple, dried cranberries, Indian crunchies, and an Indian-inspired vinaigrette); a tropical shrimp or club salad with smoked tomato dressing; and Casbah Wings: three jumbo turkey wings prepared à la Thai or Chipotle BBQ, or Habanera hot, served with celery and his house-made bleu cheese dressing.

Yet it’s the actual destinations along the journey where Matt’s cooking shines brightest. While deservedly renowned for serving some excellent and inventive sushi (the Tuna Tower and gorgeously-presented Monster Hole Bowl — 7-9 different types of fish sashimi over rice — have to be both seen and tasted to be believed), the dinner entrées reveal the core of his inclusive ingenuity. Panko Chicken Crunch with seasonal fruit salad, Long Island Duck Breast, and West Indian Rubbed Chicken Breast comprise the fowl section of the menu, and beef is covered with a 16-oz. garlic and pepper-crusted Porterhouse, garlic roasted Lollipop Lamb Chops (with lime chutney), a thyme, rosemary and marjoram-crusted New York Strip, and what’s proven to be one of the Casbah’s most popular items: Pop’s Pot Roast. Featured pork preparations include pork medallions, a six-spiced or garlic-seared pork loin, and loin prepared with sweet dark soy, garlic, sesame and fresh basil.

The flavors of the sea figure heavily in Matt’s dishes, as well it should, for it seems he’s rarely lived far from the ocean. Along with seared white fish and shrimp with minted tamarind garlic sauce, there’s Tandoori Spiced Shrimp (with mint chutney), his famed Cedar Plank Salmon (with honey star anise glaze), the Titan’s Trio (his choice of three fish; usually sword, mahi and salmon), enormous garlic-seared Grand Bank scallops, and, by way of his African days, a Crispy Crunchy Whole Fish. The Casbah’s lunch menu offers a wealth of further choices. Included are things like ropa vieja; a five-spiced garlic roasted pork sandwich; a huge, two-cheese burger; a bowl of generous Japanese-style noodle soup, and a seared wahoo burger.

Reflecting the Casbah’s mixture of studied sophistication and loose spontaneity, the excellent wine list (which spans France, Spain, Italy, California, south America and the Antipodes) offers strong choices for both the aficionado and the neophyte.  Matt’s impressive mastery of flavor carries over into his desserts. Not content with serving pedestrian fare like cloying pies or cream-laden brownies, Matt’s come up with three stellar and very clever concoctions: a Kiwi Banana Spring Roll (served with raspberry mousse), xango, served with ginger caramel sauce, and a surprisingly subtle chocolate cheesecake.

Yes, Matt Nugnes’ return has been along time coming, but as with most things we hold dearly, it’s well worth the wait.

Matt’s Casbah is located at 801 East New Haven Avenue in historic downtown Melbourne. Open 7 days a week from 11 a.m. to close, the Casbah provides complimentary valet parking, a fully-operationl sushi bar, outdoor, bar-equipped patio seating, another full liquor bar inside, and a large, beautifully decorated dining room. Along with daily lunch and dinner specials, the Casbah bar offers drink specials throughout the week. Happy Hour is held Monday through Friday from 4 to 7 p.m., with $3 wells, and $1 off all drafts beers. Wednesdays see a well-attended Ladies’ Night from 8 p.m. to 10 p.m.; Ladies drink $3 Stoli flavors, with shot specials on hand as well. Celebrate “Almost The Weekend” with $8 Bud Light pitchers from 9 p.m. to close each Thursday, and come back Friday and Saturday to groove to top tunes at 11 p.m. No cover, but please dress to impress. Sundays see Hospitality Night from 8 p.m. to close; Industry workers can enjoy half-price calls ($3 Captain Morgan, Stoli, Bacardi, Malibu, and Jim Beam drinks); $2 Bud Light and Kirin drafts; $3 Redhook IPA and Hook & Ladder Drafts, and $3 Washington Apple shots. Must show work paycheck stub or be in uniform from your job. Every Sunday from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m., Matt brings his signature style to Sunday Brunch. Featuring fabulous made-to-order omelets, a create-your-own Belgian waffle bar with fresh fruit, whipped sweet cream, nuts, and other delectable toppings; stations laden with charcuteries; hash brown potatoes; fresh seasonal fruit; and much more. Brunch includes your choice of Bloody Mary or sparkling Mimosa and ends with a lavish chocolate fountain — all to the accompaniment of disco favorites. Adults: $18.95, plus tax and gratuity; children under 12: $9.95, plus tax and gratuity. For parties of 8-12 people, Matt can create an exclusive, multi-course dinner for you and your friends. Special wines and champagnes will be paired with a multi-course menu of appetizers, entrees, desserts and more. Call (321) 574-1099 for details, pick-up orders and to secure reservations, or visit www.mattscasbah.com online.

View Larger Map

After all, those resumes are generously peppered with studies under a variety of culinary luminaries from Napa Valley to Paris. But when you delve deeper into their collective history, it’s hard to think of them cooking anywhere other than at their T.F. Onion Café & Deli in Cocoa Beach.

Indeed, the Mannion’s professional pedigree is dazzlingly distracting. Chef Caroline earned her Grande Diplome in Cuisine and Patisserie from the revered Cordon Bleu and completed her internship at the 3-star Michelin-rated Ledoyen in Paris, later working at Manhattan’s Sarabeth’s across from Central Park. Chef Thomas, who has a degree in hotel and restaurant management and the culinary arts from the New York Restaurant School in Manhattan, cut his teeth working with Daniel Boulud at his now legendary restaurant, Daniel. After studying under Thomas Keller at Napa Valley’s French Laundry during the days of its meteoric rise to worldwide fame and stints at NYC’s Montrachet and 21 Club, Thomas served as Executive Chef and General Manager of the Hotel Metro’s Metro Grill in the Empire State Building.

But when you’re welcomed by the gracious couple at T.F. Onion, it’s difficult to imagine them hidden away in the steamy warren of some million-dollar kitchen barking orders at trembling line cooks. They’re proud of their achievements, make no mistake, yet they seem to find more fulfillment in never having allowed the toughness those times demanded to envelop them completely, nor steer them away from their abiding love of sharing good food at their guests’ level. Because like their wonderful food, the Mannion’s exuberant personalities are meant to shared, and the counter that separates them from the dining room seems like a concession to traditional restaurant floor plans.

Both Thomas and Caroline know firsthand that one needn’t be an ornery megalomaniac to create magic in the kitchen. If anything, that high-and-mighty attitude is sure to detract from the food, and for the Mannions, whether rolling out mille feuille on the Champs Elysees or stirring mac n’ cheese in Brooklyn, the food always comes first. They know too that when it comes with a soulful smile and a friendly greeting, there are few things on earth more satisfying.

What better type of place to open, then, than that most democratic of eateries, the delicatessen, whose success has always hinged on the meeting of stellar cooking and the gregarious spirit of the individuals within. And what better spot to open one than in Cocoa Beach, which beachside native Caroline calls “the best place on earth.” If you’re Thomas, and you feel like perfecting the combination, dub it with a nickname you earned in Catholic school and have your signature sandwich pay homage to the landmark where you first proposed to your wife.

That sandwich, “The Brooklyn Bridge” (a stack of salami, ham, Capicola, and house-prepared turkey and roast beef with Provolone, lettuce, tomato, oil, vinegar and Italian spices), is the symbol of T.F. Onion’s excellence and generosity, and a kind of gateway into a world of tasty discovery. Every regular counts it as a favorite, and they’re unabashed about espousing all the other items’ merits.

While we tucked into our meals, the place was fairly abuzz with activity, with conversations bouncing between tables and arcing across the room to Thomas at the cutting board or to Caroline, who threw in witticisms from around the kitchen door, all to the accompaniment of Frank Sinatra’s satiny croon. No sooner had we become immediate devotees of our respective sandwiches, than we’d been recruited to the cheeseburger camp adjacent, then by the strudel and Belgian waffle aficionados behind. As one customer offered, “You can get a regular sandwich anywhere, right? But you can’t get a sandwich like that anywhere else but here.” With a refreshing disregard for stuffy decorum, samples were traded back and forth in an effort to make my introduction to T.F. Onion the most complete and memorable it could be.

Apart from some of those lingering memories (beer-battered onion rings with a creamy remoulade dipping sauce made on the spot; phenomenal, straight-from-the-broiler French onion soup; a hefty turkey club; potato salad; spicy macaroni salad, and a roasted portobello mushroom stuffed with spinach, sun-dried tomatoes and Fontina cheese), T.F. Onion’s menu offers something for everyone, and many items are named after loyal regulars. There are loads of fresh salads (made with your choice of homemade dressings), soups de jour, and a daily roster of specials to contend with, to say nothing of the range of great sandwiches, all of which are served on bread baked fresh daily from American & European Pastries and Breads of Cape Canaveral.

Pick your favorite (German farmer’s white, wheat, rye, kaiser roll, and many others), add some Boar’s Head cold cuts (or some of their house-prepared meats, like roast beef, chicken, turkey and pastrami), and cheese to construct your own, or order one of their specialty creations, which come with a choice of side. There’s a BLT, a grilled chicken, a veggie burger, and a grilled vegetable wrap to round out the other options. It should come as no surprise that all of their ingredients are as fresh as can be, and everything (down to the soups and dressings) is prepared by the Mannion’s hands or by their trusted, equally talented staff — Shenell, Donnie, Julie, Geoffrey, and often, Caroline’s mother — all of whom contribute to T.F. Onion’s endearing personality.

Using only farm fresh, free-range, hormone-free eggs, T.F. Onion also prepares fabulous breakfasts — from omelets and breakfast sandwiches to crepes, and Hawaiian baked French toast, courtesy of their Sunday brunches. That Sunday brunch menu also features smoked salmon bagels, biscuits and gravy, pain du chocolat, specialty omelets, portobello mushroom and spinach quiche, and along with many others (all under $10), the rarely-found Dublin Coddle, a traditional Irish dish featuring bacon, sausage, potatoes, carrots, red onions and garlic baked in a hard cider.

Expect high standards commensurate with their distinguished credentials, but don’t be surprised when the down-to-earth Mannions refer to you by name when your order is ready. Because to them, you’re not a customer, you’re a guest at their table.

And what a table that is.

T.F. Onion Café & Deli is located on the ground floor of the Cape Royal office building in Cocoa Beach (1980 N. Atlantic Ave.; Suite 105 on the beachside of the building). The New York-style eatery is open Monday through Friday from 8 a.m. to 4 p.m., and Sundays for their Sunday Brunch from 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. In keeping with delicatessen tradition, T.F. Onion offers full deli service and loaves of their fresh-baked breads are available for purchase. Free wi-fi is available in their dining room as well. Caroline’s patisserie skills are on display in their pastry case, which offers pies, cakes, galettes, and French-inspired treats, all baked fresh daily. The Mannions also offer catering services; call ahead for an appointment to meet with them. Together, they can you help create a menu for any occasion of any size: weddings, reunions, birthdays, or business meetings. They’re well versed in a variety of culinary disciplines, including Italian, Spanish, Japanese/Asian, traditional American, French, German — just let them know what you’re looking for and they’ll make it happen within your budget. Call the Mannions at (321) 784-9400 to have lunch orders ready for pick up. Contact Zanadu Travel to find out about “Cruising with the Onions” on RCI’s Freedom of the Sea departing October 4th, 2009. During the 7-day voyage to the Caribbean, Thomas and Caroline will share some of their recipes and hold group demonstrations in one of the ship’s restaurants. A wine master will also teach classes on pairing food with wines. Call 783-6558 or 502-9420; email them at: myzanadu@cfl.rr.com

View Larger Map

You’d be hard pressed to find a motto that captures the spirit of beachside living better than that.

Those three simple directives form Da Kine Diego’s guiding credo, which, while certainly catchy and pithily evocative of this area’s ingrained principles, also hides a meaning that runs far deeper than mere sloganeering.

Considering Da Kine’s long-held status as a beachside institution, the words seem to hold the power of a whispered magical incantation, one that transformed the eatery from a humble burrito stand into a way of life enjoyed by thousands of devotees up and down the coast.

The origins of both the motto and the popular eatery are so closely intertwined that it’s nearly impossible to decide which of them came first. Like the “chicken or the egg” conundrum, tracing common logic might reveal that the motto was coined following considered reflection well after their first burrito was served, but one can argue that loving, surfing, and eating were the very ideals that first laid the restaurant’s solid foundation atop a putt-putt golf course back in 1996.

When you hear owner Scott Brasington talk effusively about Da Kine Diego’s beginnings, it’s clear that love was an essential ingredient in their successful recipe from the very start. His close-knit family, originally from Texas, moved to Florida in 1975 from the Philippines, where the Brasington patriarch had been stationed with the military. From here, the three Brasington brothers — Scott, Eric and Kirk — took divergent paths, all the while sharing a fervent love of the water.

It’s what bound them together while Scott was off in California and Hawaii managing several Chart House restaurants and Eric was studying the culinary arts at Johnson and Wales. Kirk, for his part, spent most of his waking hours shaping surfboards locally with luminaries like Matt Kechele, Larry Mayo, and Larry Pope, and went on to help create a wide range of innovative wakeboards during the sport’s infancy.

In mid-1995, their paths again converged in Satellite Beach when during a surf session the three brothers fantasized about opening a burrito stand to provide fresh, simple, healthy food for their fellow local surfers. With Eric invoking San Diego’s famed burritos as inspirational exemplars and Scott’s “kine” (Hawaiian pidgin for “kind”) suggestion that they be prepared with their own fresh twist, Kirk is said to have come up with the restaurant’s inimitable name.

With the help of some trusting people surely touched by the Brasington brothers’ infectious positivity, Da Kine Diego’s served its first burrito nearly 12 years ago on the old site of Satellite Beach Putt-Putt Golf. Everything about the place was — and still is — basic; from the fresh, hearty, feel-good food, down to the paper plates and plastic cutlery. But Da Kine’s, while structurally unpretentious (in keeping with the spirit of their original vision), can hardly be called a “stand.” It’s so much more than that.

Where else around here can you find a more unique ambiance than at Da Kine Diego’s, where you can breathe in the salt air under the shade of a thatched umbrella and tuck into an enormous fresh-tasting burrito to the accompaniment of laid-back island rhythms? Where else can you maybe even sit out under the stars with a Negra Modelo and watch surf films on a canvas screen? Who else is as supportive of the local surf scene and as dedicated to the community as the family-friendly Da Kine’s? Others might try, but they can never quite replicate that singular Brasington vibe.

So, love? Check. Surf? Check. Eating? Double check. Not content to simply introduce the area to the concept of a hand-held burrito, Da Kine’s went a step further by filling them with jasmine rice, black beans, chipotle sour cream, green onions, and fresh, cilantro-laden salsa. Everyone has a favorite style — chicken, pork, steak, or veggie — and the miniature version, “Mini Bs,” pack just as powerful a punch. Their “Gringo Star” sandwich (chicken, pork or steak huddled in a soft, sweet flat bread with cheese lettuce and piquant lizayo sauce) is just as popular an item, as are their “Barney Bowls” (essentially one of their burritos, minus the tortilla) and their excellent tacos. Salads are on hand, along with some kid-friendly items and several sides, including delicious spicy carrots.

One could even argue a visit to taste their range of Costa Rican sauces alone. Try several permutations on any of the dishes to find your own magical combination. Newer menu items include the “Triple Crown” (salsa, chips and guacamole) and their first foray into dessert: Coco de piña — pineapple chunks drizzled with dark chocolate syrup. Enjoy a creative variety of beer and sodas, including several flavors of Jarritos, a great thirst-quenching soft drink from Mexico.

Since it first opened, Da Kine Diego’s has taken on a life of its own, thanks to the people who work there and the customers who can never seem to get enough. Looking around, you can see the graffiti left by visitors from all over the world, all of which invariably praise Da Kine’s aesthetic as a place which has grown organically from the essence of common stoke.

And when you really get down to it, stoke is Da Kine Diego’s true specialty.

Da Kine Diego’s is located at 1360 Hwy. A1A in Satellite Beach. They’re open from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday through Saturday and from Noon to 8 p.m. on Sundays. All seating at Da Kine Diego’s is sheltered, but essentially outdoors and open to the elements. Families with small children can enjoy the covered play-sand area, replete with buckets and plastic toys. Check their marquee for special events and surf film announcements, or call (321) 779-TACO (8226) for more information or to call your larger orders ahead.

View Larger Map

Since Heidi and Eddie Deleuil took the helm in 1986, both places have earned iconic status as indelible Cocoa Beach landmarks. In the relatively short span of twenty years, Heidi’s has grown from a humble hub of Brevard’s jazz scene into the Southeastern nexus of that august and uniquely American genre. Latterly, Heidi’s has joined the ranks of Birdland, The Village Vanguard and Yoshi’s as a national jazz monument, drawing new talents, legends, and unsung stalwarts from all over the globe.

But the phenomenal music that resounds from the club on any given night is only part of the Deleuil’s recipe for success. Harking back to a time when places like the Copacabana combined quality entertainment with upscale food, the Heidelberg, under Meisterchef Eddie’s discerning eye, serves elegant Zagat-rated Continental cuisine, making the restaurant a culinary landmark on par with Heidi’s cultural significance. To this end, all of Eddie’s creations can be enjoyed in either the cozy European setting of the Heidelberg or in the adjacent jazz club.

Though born in the U.S., Eddie grew up in Kitzbühel in the Austrian Alps where eating with family was an integral part of the culture. “Food is culture, in many ways,” Eddie once told me. “When you meet with family and friends and take your time enjoy a meal, your life is that much richer. Quality is so much more important than quantity.” And quality is what you get at the Heidelberg, where everything — from the bread and divine pastries to the consommé that serves as the basis for each of their daily soups — is made from scratch with only the best and freshest ingredients available.

Food is indeed culture in Austria, where during the 1960s a protracted legal battle between rival Sachertorte makers occupied much of the public’s attention, inciting wrathful arguments in homes and coffee houses around the country as to the one and true recipe of Vienna’s most famous pastry. Similarly, the tangled Austrian identity can be finely delineated by something as simple as a favorite family dish whose origins were subsumed by a once powerful empire that stretched from Italy to Turkey.

Austrian dishes like Wiener Schnitzel, Gulasch (tender chunks of beef in a paprika sauce, served with spaetzle and red cabbage) and Palatschinken (crêpes filled with a variety of ingredients) make appearances along with some familiar German entrées, but it would be a mistake to categorize the Heidelberg’s menu as anything but European Continental. A reading of the appetizers alone evinces this inclusive approach. You’ll find Escargots à la bourguignonne; carpaccio; Norwegian smoked salmon; Steak Tartare (made from high-grade filets of beef); Beluga caviar; smoked rainbow trout, and baked Brie, served with toasted walnuts and raspberry sauce.

Entrées include grilled pork loin chops (served with herbed butter and roasted potatoes); Sauerbraten (marinated beef with potato dumplings); beef filet tips à la Stroganoff; Jaegerbraten (incredibly tender pork loin served in a sweet, earthy “hunter’s” sauce); baked filet of haddock; a 12-oz. veal chop in a creamy cognac sauce; a featured fresh fish of the chef’s creation, and the Hausmacher Wurstplatte, which features bratwurst, knackwurst, and lean pork roast served with roasted potatoes and house-made sauerkraut.

Eddie’s culinary expertise is best represented in the filets he serves. Both the filet steak à la Madagascar (served with sauce made from that island’s distinctive green peppercorns and white asparagus) and the filet served with rustic herb butter are perennial favorites, and make that considered trip to the local steakhouse seem like an exercise in disappointment. Likewise, his renowned fresh roast duckling, cooked to crispy perfection, has garnered renown both far and wide. As a bonus, the accompanying fresh baked bread and four season salads are delicious, to say nothing of the masterful way Eddie prepares all of his vegetables.

But the Wiener Schnitzel may be the Heidelberg’s signature dish, steeped as it Eddie’s formative background. If the Austrians argue bitterly over their pastry, then they’re sure to take up arms in defense and adoration of the country’s de facto national dish, a gently tenderized escalope of veal fried in a delicate breadcrumb crust and served with a wedge of lemon. Popular lore invokes countless criteria and tests for the ideal Wiener Schnitzel — one perhaps apocryphal practice involves the diner being able to sit on it without leaving a stain on the seat of his pants — but Eddie’s version defies all that nonsense by adhering to the simple tenets of any dish: That it be made of the freshest and highest quality ingredients.

The Heidelberg also happens to be a great choice for lunch. Apart from six inventive sandwiches (including “Space Coast Best,” filet steak with tartar sauce and German potato salad and a delicious traditional Reuben), you’ll find Frikadelle (ground German beefsteak), chicken breast Viennese, a daily Palatschinken creation, bratwurst, knackwurst and a number of fresh fish dishes.

Whether you go for lunch, dinner, or for an appetizer while you watch the famous house band play your favorite standard, no trip is complete without sampling one of Eddie’s incredible pastries.

Like the classically-trained Oscar Peterson meeting up with the streetwise Dizzy Gillespie for an impromptu jam session, the Heidi’s and the Heidelberg act symbiotically. Taken apart, they stand on their own as strong forces; put them together, and you have pure magic.

The Heidelberg and Heidi’s Jazz Club are located at the corner of Minutemen Causeway and A1A (7 N. Orlando Ave.) in the heart of downtown Cocoa Beach. The Heidelberg is open Wednesday through Sunday from 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. Heidi’s Jazz Club is open Wednesday through Sunday from 5 p.m. to 1 a.m. with the kitchen staying open till 11 p.m. Reservations are recommended for the Heidelberg. Call (321) 783-6806. To find out about Heidi’s live schedule, log onto www.heidisjazzclub.com or call (321) 783-4559. Heidi’s Gift Certificates make great holiday gifts, call for details or to ask about having your private party or gathering hosted by Heidi and Eddie. Don’t miss the Tribute to Louis Prima Show November 7th and 8th, featuring Giacomo Gates, Nancy Kelly, and Terry Meyers. Jazz meets Country November 14th and 15th courtesy of Allan Harris. Check Heidi’s calendar in this issue of the Resident for more performance listings.

View Larger Map

Back then, my daughter was a somnolent tot just 8 months out of the womb and Enigma was a cozy café occupying a small space in Satellite Beach’s Atlantic Shopping Plaza.

My daughter is a big sister now, and won’t nap for all the treats and toys in the world. After all, that would break the flow of her endless chattering, and the Lord knows we couldn’t have that. It’s hard to believe that during that first visit my wife and I were actually able to carry on a conversation without being interrupted by her theories on what makes raccoons “mean” or “nice,” or by dictates that we now refer to her as “Christopher Robin” lest she refuse to acknowledge our presence.

Enigma’s grown up a bit, too. In its 2005 guise, it was a tiny and unassuming place, whose loyal customers would wait patiently outside for tables to open up. Now situated about two miles down A1A from its old location, Enigma is like a butterfly newly burst from its cocoon, replete with ample parking, outdoor seating, a large bar and lounge, expanded menu, a salad bar, and a beautifully decorated, 10,000 square-foot dining area. But as with children, enumerating Enigma’s differences reveals far less about its current state than the factors that remain unchanged.

Originally established in 2001 by Melbourne native Deborah Ingram and chef Lucio Gonzalez, Enigma (then Enigma Café) built its reputation on inventive and delicious dishes served in a relaxed, casual setting. The place was regarded as a treasured secret by locals who flocked there regularly for good food and conversation, its low profile among the shops of a nondescript plaza effectively disguising it from the hoi polloi. But as unassuming as it was then, there was a feeling amongst its devoted clientele that it was only a matter of time before Enigma shed its anonymity for greater exposure.

All the things that gave Enigma that sense of percolating success seven years ago are still in place and act as the driving force behind its new identity, something regulars Ed and Jeanne André foresaw during the eatery’s infancy. Partnering with Ingram and Gonzalez, the couple helped form Enigma’s fresh incarnation atop a foundation laid with those original standards: excellent, made-to-order food and warm, friendly ambiance. The new digs may be bigger, but that hasn’t changed Enigma’s essential air of a hometown gathering spot.

You’d think that longtime customers would resist the change, but incredibly, over 90% of Enigma’s original fan base continue to dine there, some several times a week. As before, customers play an important role in Enigma’s character, lending their names to many of the recipes they’ve either inspired or concocted themselves. Ideas are whipped up in the kitchen and sampled by the staff and if the new dish passes muster, it’s added to the malleable menu and named after the lucky creator.

Many of the old customer-inspired favorites are still on the list — the Roscoe Dale (chipped steak sautéed in garlic with gorgonzola cream over pasta), the Ed André (bacon, red onion, and romano cream sauce over pasta), the Stack Davis (grilled portobello mushroom, grilled chicken, and roasted red pepper topped with basil and parmesan dressing), and Pete’s Wicked salad (grilled shrimp, baby spring mix, carrots, craisins, pumpkin seeds, bleu cheese and olives in a balsamic vinaigrette) — and they’re part of what informs the rest of the selections, which are chosen, not for their trendy appeal, but for the eclecticism that’s long been Enigma’s trademark.

The additions of a fryer and large grill helped develop Enigma’s unique new menu as well. Appetizers like zucchini sticks and fried calamari make appearances alongside other items which are more akin to Spanish tapas, and the generous portions are still up the standards Enigma set in place during its inception. A traditional Greek platter (with hummus, tabouli, vegetables and pita) shares space with Mexican shrimp cocktail, meatballs, enormous crab cakes, escargot, and Thai-inspired coconut shrimp.

A host of chicken, veal, and seafood dishes make use of some innovative pairings, but Enigma’s specialty dishes are the best introduction to their inimitable style. The Portobello alla Lucio (grilled and topped with basil, tomato, extra virgin olive oil and fresh mozzarella),  another carry-over from the restaurant’s beginnings, is one of our favorites, but the vegetable fajitas and eggplant Florentine are strong contenders. Unforgettable steaks are another new addition; Choose from a 12-oz rib eye, and 8-oz. filet mignon, and a 12-oz. New York strip. And people rave about their burgers; a Kobe bacon American cheese variety and an 8-oz. Angus are sure to please devotees. Twelve-inch gourmet pizzas are also given the Enigma treatment on a menu that defies easy categorization.

Many of these items appear on their popular lunch menu as well, and you’d be hard-pressed to find a more delicious and economical alternative to those chain meals you’re so used to grabbing. Conveniently, Enigma offers take out, yet with the efficiency of their service and the calming effect of its casual surroundings, you’d be silly not to linger for some respite from work.

Unfairly judging the place by its imposing exterior, many potential visitors assume that Enigma is one of those upper-crust establishments, prohibitively expensive and as sterile — and as stingy — as a Swiss safe. Nothing could be further from the truth. Enigma’s portions are large, its prices are comparable to, if not better than those of any corporate-owned restaurant, the food is fresh and delicious, and the atmosphere is as relaxed as you’re likely to find.

While it’s much easier to focus on what’s changed since Enigma first began, you’ll find greater reward in appreciating the constants that ushered in its wonderful metamorphosis.

Enigma is located at 1550 Highway A1A in Satellite Beach. Hours of operation are Tuesday through Thursday from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m., Fridays and Saturdays from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. and Sundays from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Early bird specials are available Tuesday through Sunday from 4 p.m. to 6 p.m. Enjoy 2-for-1 Happy hour nightly from 4 p.m. to 7 p.m. and live music in their lounge area. Call 779-8202 for more information on their live music schedule, to call in a take-out order, or to make recommended reservations. You can also visit them online at: www.enigmabeachside.com

T. Bennison; Photos by Rich Sullivan

View Larger Map

We revere Europe for its historic charms, but all too frequently we obscure its soul in the replication process. “European bistros” are a dime a dozen these days — there are probably more now stateside than there ever were. So with so many of them about, why can’t we  ever seem to get them right? On one end of the scale you get quaint idealizations which are closer to plastic EPCOT showcases than their understated models. On the other end, you find sleekly modern eateries which are more akin to the insides of inventively-lit refrigerators.

We can never seem to get the service right at these places, either. The needle wavers spastically between the distantly snobby out-of-work fashion model or the fawning, oily caricature who’s as quick to pull out an accordion as he is with his well-padded addition.

The fact is that the best European restaurants exist somewhere between the two extremes. They’re the ones you pass by for being rather unassuming — neither flashily modern nor dusty archeological curiosities. They’re the places real Europeans frequent, and more often than not, they have the accreditations on their walls to prove their excellence.

Melbourne’s Continental Flambé is one such place, and despite the owners’ pedigree and the awards attesting to its success, it’s their adherence to guileless authenticity that sets them apart from other pretenders. On a purely visual basis, Continental Flambé seems to span that divide between modernity and tradition ably enough, but it’s more clearly evinced by its menu, which mirrors the true cultural melting pot Europe has latterly become. Eschewing easy identifiers like strictly French, German, Spanish or Italian dishes, Continental Flambé creates meals that speak of the owners’ love of both surprise and familiarity.

Forget that Ratib and Valérie Bruel ran a successful restaurant in Paris’ famed Latin Quarter before opening Continental Flambé here in picturesque downtown Melbourne nearly 10 years ago. And forget that the august Wine Spectator bestowed them with a Best Award of Excellence for having one of the most outstanding restaurant wine lists in the world (the only eatery in Brevard ever to receive such recognition). Ignore the fact that it’s been the recipient of the coveted Golden Spoon Award from Florida Trend Magazine four years running, or that the Zagat Guide called it “Melbourne’s best little secret” and gave them high marks on all their exacting criteria. All you need to remember is that it’s one of the best, most authentic European restaurants around.

As hostess, Valérie ensures that the service is attentive and fastidious without being obsequiously omnipresent, which is in keeping with the relaxed yet refined atmosphere. After his time in Paris, where he learned invaluable skills under the tutelage of his father-in-law, Robert (a highly respected chef with over 35 years experience), Chef Ratib went on to work with some of the best chefs in the world. His formal training in the States began in Washington, D.C. in such places as the Watergate Hotel, Powers Court Restaurant, and Anton’s.

In a pristine open kitchen, Ratib and his hand-picked staff of chefs work effortlessly to make every dish an understated masterpiece. And while many of them are informed by French standards and techniques, they spring vigorously toward the traditions of their neighbors.

And like most European-style restaurants, you aren’t obliged to come for dinner to sample their best dishes. Continental Flambé’s impressive lunch menu is represented by appetizers like baked Brie with apples and almonds and escargot with garlic, hazelnut butter, and spinach ragout in puff pastry. Fresh salads house or Caesar salads can be bolstered with either chicken, shrimp, tuna, salmon or mahi. Other varieties include jumbo lump crab meat (served grilled, blackened or in curry) over mango and avocado on a bed of crisp baby greens; nut-crusted goat cheese on a portobello mushroom with ginger vinaigrette; and grilled beef with arugula, Stilton cheese, slivers of red onion and apples with caramelized walnuts.

Lunch entrees include a variety of delicate crêpe
 and croissants (the Seafood Newburg is a popular choice) and dishes like potato-crusted red snapper with Béarnaise sauce; 
an-seared ahi tuna topped with wasabi and ginger slaw; beef tenderloins Diane (prepared with mushrooms, garlic, and cognac cream); and tender veal Scaloppine topped with prosciutto and mozzarella in a piquant pesto cream sauce. Several more delectable items make appearances, but they have to be read in Continental Flambé’s lovely setting to be full appreciated.

Dinner is served, appropriately, on a prix fixe basis, with $26.95 giving you an appetizer, salad, entrée, and dessert — a great value for such high-quality cuisine. Dishes can of course be ordered a la carte, and some additions or substitutions can be made for for a few more dollars. Choose from some of the aforementioned lunch appetizers along with ahi tuna carpaccio and arugula salad with pickled ginger and shavings of Parmesan, as well as several others.

Proper entrées are separated into pâtes, or pastas (penne with chicken in a spicy cream sauce
; penne tossed with sun-dried tomatoes, avocados, goat Cheese and pine nuts
; and veal and spinach cannelloni topped with asparagus and mozzarella in a white wine cream sauce are just a few examples); fruits de mer
 (seafood: things like Crêpe Newberg; shrimp and Parmesan-coated mahi served with spinach Dijon sauce
; and pistachio-coated salmon with Newberg and Boursin sauces); volailles
 (poultry: chicken breast with shrimp in a pistachio basil cream sauce
 is just one example); and viandes, or meat. In addition to the wonderful 8-oz. beef tenderloins Diane, you’ll find veal Scaloppine served with porcini mushrooms and Manzanilla sherry sauce; 
8-oz. Filet Mignon served with herb butter, caramelized onions and Béarnaise, and veal Scaloppine topped with asparagus, jumbo crab meat and Béarnaise. Their Crème Brûlée is lauded as the best, but you’d be remiss in not trying the Crêpes Suzette, served with Grand Marnier.

For value, service, quality, and atmosphere, Continental Flambé is unsurpassed. It’s also one of the most authentic European restaurants we’ve found in the area. No misunderstanding there.

Continental Flambé (936 e. New Haven Ave.; downtown historic Melbourne) is open for lunch Monday through Saturday from 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. and dinner is served Monday through Saturday from 5:30 p.m. to 9 p.m. Call (321) 768-2445 for reservations. The Bruels also recently opened the adjacent Lexi bar and offer catering services and rooms for private parties, events and meetings. Call them for details. Visit www.continentalflambe.com for a complete menu and wine list and information on upcoming events and wine tastings.

View Larger Map

Rock shrimp are such an integral part of Florida’s unique cuisine and identity that it’s hard to remember a time when they weren’t available, cast aside as inedible pests.

But as recently as the early 1980s, rock shrimp were still considered too labor intensive to be a lucrative fishery. How they grew from a net-crowding irritant into a quintessential Florida delicacy is a fascinating story brimming with historical firsts, and impossible to relate without mentioning the iconic Dixie Crossroads and the Thompson family.

Many Floridians (and a surprising number of visitors from all parts of the globe) are familiar with the Dixie Crossroads tale, but yours truly, while a Gulf Coast native, was wholly ignorant of the way the restaurant affected so many facets of the State’s history.

In 1969, Titusville boat builder Rodney Thompson crafted the first fiberglass shrimp boat in the western hemisphere in order to pursue his dream of becoming a leading shrimp fisherman in the area. It was slow going for Thompson, and he’d often pull back into port with empty nets, until a chance meeting with a NOAA research vessel turned fortune in his favor.

Following the instructions of one Captain Barrett of the Oregon II, Thompson and his crew dropped their nets about 20 miles east of Melbourne as dusk settled in, pulling in over 1,000 pounds of rock shrimp after an hour’s worth of trawling. Referred to variously as “peanuts” and “hardheads” for their stubbornly solid shells, the shrimp couldn’t even be given away. Cleaning them of their large sand vein was simply too difficult and time consuming, and Thompson soon learned the truth behind one of their less flattering sobriquets: “trash.”

However, Thompson’s perseverance, fed by Barrett’s suggestion that he could make “a million dollars” if he found a way to market them, paid off when Thompson’s young daughter Laurilee suggested the shrimp be split like lobsters. With the help of a Missisippi processing company, Thompson fashioned a modified mechanical peeler/deveiner, effectively undercutting the price of more expensive soft shrimp.

In 1983, Rodney Thompson opened Dixie Crossroads (then a mere thirty-seat diner), as a showcase for this newly-discovered delicacy. The rest, as they say, is history.

Now regarded as a timeless Florida landmark – both an excellent eatery and a monument to the rock shrimp itself – Dixie Crossroads succeeds by simultaneously adhering to tradition and investing in its future.

Indeed, by 1994, rock shrimp were in such high demand that they were in danger of being overfished, and their fragile breeding grounds, the Oculina reefs, had been irreparably scarred. In yet another first for the area, Thompson campaigned to halt bottom trawling and establish controls to protect the reef system. Needless to say, these ideas met with often aggressive opposition, but by 2001, he’d succeeded in bringing together industry partners to create their own management blueprint, thereby ensuring the rock shrimp’s preservation and ensuing longevity.

As if rock shrimp weren’t succulent enough on their own, knowing the details of their humble origin and their long sojourn from coral nursery to boiler pan makes them even more delicious, and Dixie Crossroads is the place enjoy them.

Whether fried, broiled or steamed, rock shrimp have a crisp, sweet flavor that’s more akin to lobster than the white, pink, or brown varieties, all of which are on hand here, according to their seasonal harvesting. Order in a wide range of preparations, from 1 to 4 dozen, or go for broke and eat all you can manage. Yet while Dixie Crossroads is known for its shrimp — and its unparalleled sweet tea and renowned corn fritters — there are plenty of other dishes that are just as incredible.

Choose from scallops, crabs, lobster, several varieties of fish (including catfish, tilapia, mahi mahi, and both fresh local spotted sea trout and mullet), their famous “Indian River Combo” (fish, rock shrimp, scallops and a crab cake), soups, salads and sandwiches, as well as ribs and chicken. Beef is well represented by New York strips, porterhouse and sirloin steaks, and expertly cooked prime rib, all of which are available with “surf” accompaniments.

Wonderfully enough, Dixie Crossroads is soon to offer a selection of pastas, and we were lucky enough to try a more-than-generous plate of shrimp alfredo — one dozen small brown shrimp sautéed in butter and garlic over fettucine in a rich cream sauce. Topping it with grilled chicken is also an option. Even without the subtly-flavored shrimp, the dish would still have been a huge success and the envy of any Italian trattoria.

History is often derided as one of the driest of disciplines, with little of the vim and vibrancy of the present or the enticingly open future. And much like the rock shrimp, it’s encased in a dauntingly rigid outer shell. Crack it open though, spread it with melted butter and some lemon juice, and you’ll agree that it offers some of the tastiest lessons you’ll ever learn.

Dixie Crossroads (1475 Garden St.; Titusville; 2 miles east from Exit 220 off I-95; 268-5000), now run by the inimitable Captain Laurilee Thompson, is open from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. from Sunday through Thursday and 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Visit their informative website – http://www.dixiecrossroads.com – for history, shrimp lore, and a full menu listing. Enjoy a full bar, daily specials, and warm Southern hospitality. Inside, you’ll find a wealth of authentic souvenirs, vintage photos and articles regarding the restaurant’s history, as well as special seasonings, sauces and fritter mixes. Visit Wild Ocean Seafood Market nearby (688 S. Park Ave.; Titusville; 269-1116) for rock shrimp pick-up orders and all of your other seafood needs.

View Larger Map

In much of polite society, it’s considered somewhat rubeish to order beer with your meal.

Among the wine drinking sophisticates who rule as the equally reviled and exalted archons of taste, the celestial clink of fine stemware is the only admissible sonic accompaniment for any repast. The convivial clang of tankards, on the other hand, is the sound of the help downstairs or the laborers without, tucking into platefuls of spuds with disgraceful, animalistic abandon. To many, beer drinkers are unrefined boors, more concerned with their guts than their brains, and the food they consume isn’t fit for livestock.

But in all probability, when people of the future are implanted with time-release food capsules at birth, they’ll illustrate the “Eating” entry in their history books with Pieter Breughel’s “Peasant Wedding” and not, let’s say, “The Last Supper.” That celebrated painting of a colorful, chaotic feast pares two of our greatest needs down to its bare essentials and tells us more about ourselves than we often care to admit. The fact is, we like beer — and we like the food that goes with it. Like old, tattered blankets, they comfort us, and after a goodly amount, they tuck us in bed with warm, paternal pats of their hands.

It’s surprising, then, when we find a beer that’s a bit out of the ordinary, one that exhibits as much personality as a stuffy petite syrah. It’s even more surprising to find it served under the same roof with some fresh and very tasty food that offers both simple sustenance and brow-raising delight. It’s a downright shock to discover that we have such a place beachside in Coasters Pub.

For beer aficionados, there are more than a few meccas on the endless quest for sudsy salvation, not the least of which is Belgium, whose breweries and estaminets, by some reckonings, outnumber its inhabitants. The Belgians take their beer very seriously and pride themselves with having created some of the greatest masterpieces in the beverage world. Situated as it is between France and Germany, Belgium takes the best of both worlds to marry refinement with earthly pleasure. Taking their cue from this unassuming culture, new Coasters owners Dave and Wendy Swartz and Joe and Shannon Baun have recently taken over the once German-centric pub and turned it into a veritable United Nations of beer, making Coasters Pub the newest stop on every beer lover’s pilgrimage.

For 20 years the family-friendly Coasters has been a beloved spot for locals looking for a cozy, welcoming relief from the workaday world. Not only do they come for the hospitable atmosphere and wonderful food, but for the prospect of having their horizons broadened by a hard-to-find Corsendonk brewed by cowled monks working off a medieval recipe. But while Belgian beer is well-represented at Coasters, it’s not their stubborn focus.

Around the time Coasters first opened its doors in 1988, American brewers were turning themselves on to the European tradition of creating beers capable of exuding deep individuality and multi-faceted flavors.       Since that time, America, and indeed the world, has experienced a resurgence in artisanal brewing techniques, and the Swartz and Baun families are dedicated to exposing customers to the best examples of craft beers from all over the world.

There are over 127 beers on Coasters’ ever-growing menu, 37 of which are offered on draught. This leaves 90 different bottles to choose from, and any beer geek will approve of the well-chosen selection. Pacific Northwestern beer stalwarts will be pleased to find Rogue and Lost Coast, as well as Sierra Nevada Pale Ale on tap, and locals will praise the inclusion of Holy Mackerel, brewed in Melbourne. Favorites like Orange Blossom Pilsner and Blue Moon make appearances, along with a mind-addling roster of porters, stouts, hefewiezens, dopplebocks, lambics, English nut browns, bitters, lagers, märzens, and special seasonal concoctions.

But despite all the beautifully dizzying beer-ness flowing throughout the place, Coasters is simply an excellent place for a meal. Each of their fresh, made-to-order dishes compliment a wide range of beers and stand on their own as some of the best casual food in town. Favorites include their generous 1/2-lb. burgers (hand-patted and charbroiled to your specification) served on a kaiser roll with a wide choice of topping options, delicious wings (which can be baked or fried and prepared with no less than 8 types of sauce), French dip sandwiches, Reubens, and our favorite, beef on wick — a large stack of hot roast beef with melted Swiss cheese and horseradish sauce on a salted kaiser bun.

Even if Coasters served only pitchers of — gasp — Pabst Blue Ribbon, they’d be worth visiting for their food. Choose from hot soups, homemade chili, fresh heaping salads (including a broiled 1/2-lb. mahi filet over Caesar), deli-worthy cold sandwiches (like turkey, roast beef, and Italian clubs), and incredible hot sandwiches. Along with a great fish sandwich (made with either pollock or mahi broiled Key West or spicy Cajun style), you’ll find bratwurst subs, meatball subs, fish and chips, chicken parmesan, and chicken cordon bleu sandwiches, all of which come with your choice of potato salad, cole slaw, or beer-battered fries. A long list of appetizers will keep nibblers happy, and children are catered to with several options.

And so an open invitation exists to all the insufferable oenophiles and beer-doubters out there: Come with me to Coasters and sup from my goblet of St. Bernardus Abt. 12. And help yourself to a bite of my burger and fries, by all means. Just don’t say I didn’t tell you so.

And, um, you have a bit of mustard on your turtleneck…

Coasters Pub is located at 917-A E. Eau Gallie Bvd., in the southernmost corner of the Wal-Mart Plaza, where Eau Gallie meets A1A. The non-smoking, fully-equipped bar is now open Mondays from 4 p.m. to 11 p.m., Tuesdays through Thursdays from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m., Fridays and Saturdays from 11 a.m. to Midnight, and Sundays from Noon to 9 p.m. Last month saw the inception of their live music program featuring great local music each Friday night at 9 p.m. Friday, July 11th features music by Greg and Brian, and Derek, of Derek & The Slammers, plays solo on Saturday, July 12th. Saturday, July 19th sees the pub’s first beer tasting; they’ll be selling tickets inside for a chance to taste over 50 of their beers. Call (321) 799-BREW for more details. You can also look forward to their Pub Stumpers Trivia nights each Monday from 7 p.m. to 9p.m. Their Happy Hour, held each day from 3 p.m. to 7 p.m. offers some great specials. Enjoy 13 televisions (4 of which are big screens) showing all your favorite sporting events, take-out service, and a great kids’ menu. Coasters also provides free wi-fi service to its customers; enjoy food and drink while trying to get work done on your laptop. Visit them online to view their extensive beer list and sign up for their informative newsletter at www.coastersbrewpub.com

View Larger Map

The highly embellished version goes that Mr. Yeats harrumphed audibly and pushed the lowly root vegetables aside as undeserving of his refined palate. “I don’t care if he wrote ‘Cathleen Ní Houlihan’,” Behan bellowed, citing one of Yeats’ masterpieces, “I can’t respect any man who won’t eat his parsnips.”

Now personally I don’t mind the things — and that’s not just a bid to win literary approval. They can be bland – sort of a cross between a potato and a bitter carrot — yet I can’t help but imagine Yeats scarfing down the Fat Snook’s parsnips with barbaric abandon as Behan throws his arms around him in a drunken bear hug. Yes, they’re that good. And that was just one of the side vegetables accompanying my entree — one lone parsnip roasted to perfection in olive oil, salt and herbs.

Everything on the Fat Snook’s menu is prepared with equal finesse — from the preliminary amuse-bouche to the main course. For those unfamiliar with the rather fruity-sounding French term, an amuse-bouche (literally “mouth amuser”) is a bite-sized morsel served before the appetizer or first course to awaken the taste buds and provide a slight lip-smack of the flavors to come.

Ours — a honeydew melon ball glazed with ginger vinaigrette — was an outstanding example of what we were to eat throughout the course of the evening. In fact, by the time the warm bread arrived with roasted red pepper jam, it was clear that every tempting component of the Fat Snook’s menu would be geared toward that same delicious end. Throughout the course of the meal, we found that each individual bite lured our tongues further into their flavorful lair. If it weren’t for our stomachs’ limited capacity, we could have stayed hours longer sampling bits of each dish to prolong the reverie. Everything here — from the décor, the presentation, and the uncommonly professional service — seemed to be an amuse-bouche. And our bouches were highly amused.

We’d been hearing great things about the Fat Snook since its doors opened four months ago and finally made it there for a review. In what is a truly collaborative effort, owners John and Mona Foy — he the finely-tuned workhorse, she the ethereal artist suggesting inventive flourishes over his shoulder — have choreographed a delicately-balanced dance of flavors in which each ingredient segues cleanly and gracefully into the next. Everything has its proper place here; nothing’s added for show. This inspired interaction — both from the food and the chefs — gives the Fat Snook’s dishes a living vibrancy rarely found in beachside eateries.

Choose from starters like the tuna carpaccio and mooli salad, pan roasted pale ale clams, lobster bisque, or the tossed heirloom caprese salad. We tried the peppercorn bacon-wrapped scallops in a light raspberry sauce; they were better than their description intimated — a perfect balance of salt and sweet. It should be noted that the Foys use only dry sea scallops (others are injected with unnecessary additives), which makes for a much more tender and truer-tasting shellfish. We also tried the guava and Spanish manchego filo pouches glazed with passion fruit coulis; again, sweetly spicy (due to a light dusting of cayenne on the dough), with occasional surprising bursts of the melted sheep’s milk cheese.

This element of surprise figures heavily in the Fat Snook’s food. But it’s more proper to refer to it as “serendipitous,” as many of the pairings challenge what you know about familiar flavors without leaving you scratching your head in befuddlement. Whereas much of the current nouveau cuisine tends to confuse adventure with shock, the Fat Snook’s version guides you safely through a meal marked by discovery and enlightenment.

Seafood selections include lemon grass-skewered Key West pink shrimp, cedar planked salmon, and seafood Newburg over puff pastry. We tried one of the two fresh catches of the day they offer (cobia, wahoo, mahi, tile, pompano, grouper, hog snapper, triple tail and other local fish make recurring appearances): the outstanding wahoo Waikiki style, grilled with thyme, Hawaiian red lava salt and a pineapple truffle vinaigrette. With a name like “the Fat Snook,” you’d expect the place to do a brisk fish business, and while it’s one of the Foys’ specialties, the “turf” entrees are just as good, if not better. Expect a grilled “Delmonico au fromage,” a stellar filet mignon, and a garlic-encrusted prime rib. Chicken dishes are covered with a grilled breast with mango and black rum sauce, and a goat cheese and basil chicken rollatini with chianti demi-glaze.

Those same friends who recommended the Snook touted the butternut squash ravioli, and we couldn’t leave without giving it a try. It was everything they said it would be – and more. The squash filling intimated wintry comfort while the light citrus chardonnay sauce suggested sunnier climes. Other dishes include five cheese tortellini in a pink vodka sauce, or smothered black beans over jasmine rice topped with a blackened chicken breast. All entrees include a choice of salad (either spinach, orange almond, or Caesar) and all steak and chicken selections come with a chef’s choice of starch and vegetable. Top that off with a slice of key lime pie (or another of their in-house made desserts), and you’ve got a dinner made in heaven.

I have to admit that I’ve always found food writing to be a bit of a sham. Writing about film, music, and even other writing draws from common reference points all readers can relate to. Writing about food proves a bit more difficult, as taste is, well…a matter of taste. Reading an article about a meal just doesn’t compare to digging into the real thing.

When it comes to describing food like the Fat Snook’s, words simply fail. On all counts — flavor, portion, atmosphere, and value – they gave us one of the best beachside meals we’ve had.

The Fat Snook (open Monday through Saturday from 5:30 p.m. to close) is located in Cocoa Beach, one block south of Natural Art Surf Shop at 2464 S. Atlantic Ave. (Hwy. A1A). Call (321) 784-1190 to make reservations — which are recommended. Visit them online to view their menu at: www.thefatsnook.com

View Larger Map

I’m also convinced that the owners, Sue and Eddy Raouda, are a distant aunt and uncle. Why else would they greet me so warmly and so effusively each time I walk in? Then again, they treat every one of their enthusiastic patrons the same. Either half the town is related to them, or they’re simply the most genuine, welcoming restaurateurs on the beach.

Blood tests might reveal different facts, but good food and friendship are strong bonds which defy constructs like nationality and borders, and on that count, all lovers of fresh, delicious cooking enjoy some connection with the Raoudas. By their own admission, Sue and Eddy love to cook and entertain, and their passion and affability comes out in every dish.

They’d been vacationing frequently in Cocoa Beach for 8 years and decided to move to the area permanently to open the Garden this past September with their daughter Ambra. Originally from Lebanon, Sue and Eddy share years of restaurant experience and owned a small diner in Ottawa where Middle Eastern eateries are as popular as pizzerias. But to characterize the Raouda’s food as simply “Middle Eastern” is a little misleading.

Lebanon, situated above Israel in an area collectively known as the Levant, produces a cuisine that can best be described as “Mediterranean,” a style of cooking which is vaunted by health advocates for its emphasis on heart-friendly ingredients and preparation. Though enthusiasts usually cite southern European examples as the best exponents of Mediterranean cuisine, the Lebanese were instrumental in creating the form long before those cultures arose, and their influence on Italian, Spanish, and French dishes still resounds today.

The closest a casual eater might come to describing Lebanese food is that it’s like Greek, or at best, like Israeli dishes, with unleavened pita bread and felafel making strong appearances. Put simply, Lebanese food is Lebanese, featuring a healthy use of garlic, lemon, fresh vegetables, and olive oil. I was pretty familiar with this kind of food before I first ate at the Garden, having had shawarma, kebobs, and felafel many times before, but was introduced to a myriad of undiscovered facets during my last visit.

We began with a sampler platter, which consisted of hommus (a smooth mixture of chick peas, lemon, garlic, olive oil, and tahini, a sesame dip), baba ghanouj (deliciously blended roasted eggplant dip), felafel (a lightly-fried fava and chick pea patty), tabouli (fresh parsley, bulgur wheat, and diced tomatoes), and grape leaves stuffed with savory rice, tomatoes, and chick peas. I’d heard from a friend about their kibbi, a sort of cylindrical meatball made of ground sirloin, onions, and crushed pine nuts, and happily took one of those alongside the platter. Each of these items can be ordered separately from their appetizer menu, but this platter, served with a basket of unleavened pita bread (wholly unlike the store-bought variety), is the best way to introduce yourself to the Raouda’s cooking.

Everything here is made on site and from scratch according to Sue’s home cooking recipes. She’s hasn’t changed her method for the restaurant, thankfully, and Ambra can attest to its authenticity. As Sue told me, “I can’t serve anything to my customers that I wouldn’t give to my children.” Freshness is key to the Garden’s success, where each item is painstakingly prepared from highly perishable ingredients, and consequently, nothing is reheated or turned over for the next day. The grape leaves themselves take 4 hours to prepare and the aioli-like garlic sauce, which can be ordered as a side, puts all jarred pretenders to shame.

A wide range of salads are available, but their pita sandwiches are what really draws hungry beachgoers. More akin to lavash, a type of flatbread, the Garden’s pitas, when rolled up like burritos, nestle an array of delicious ingredients. Called shawarma, they’re garnished with crisp lettuce, tomatoes, onions, pickles, chopped turnips, and creamy garlic sauce and can be ordered with top sirloin beef, moist chicken, lamb, or vegetables. They’re great for quick to-go meals if you so desire, but served platter-style with rice, orzo, hommus, pita, and garlic potatoes, they can be enjoyed patiently in the Garden’s brightly airy interior.

Marinated overnight, the Raouda’s meats are given hints of Lebanese spices and are never overpowering. Prepared on rotisseries or grilled on skewers with vegetables, the chicken and beef are the tastiest I’ve had. We took barbecue chicken kabobs marinated in garlic and skewered with grilled onions and peppers, and the kafta kabob, ground sirloin mixed with onions, parsley, and special Lebanese seasoning. The choice of platters ranges from a large family sampler, shrimp and salmon, and lamb as well, and each portion is perfectly-sized, yet reproducing their entire menu here wouldn’t do it justice – it has to be experienced firsthand.

It should be said that after all this food we were pleasantly full, but not uncomfortably stuffed enough to refuse a few desserts and cardamom-infused Lebanese espresso. Apart from excellent baklava, we tried namoura, a sort of honey cake with a consistency close to halva, and mahmoul, shortbread cookies filled with either dates, walnuts, or pistachios. Though each is sweet, they’re not cloying or overly rich. In fact, I was still able to try an order of Sue’s famous ijee at Ambra’s insistence, and I couldn’t be more thankful. Though really part of the appetizer selection, these zucchini and egg patties are a favorite among the Raouda children and often enjoyed in their home for breakfast.

People like the Raoudas couldn’t prepare a bad meal if they tried, and each authentic creation is outstandingly simple and fresh, and as if reflecting the natural personalities of the cooks, sunny, youthful, and fulfilling. The Pita Garden is one of the best restaurants on the beach. Try it once, and you’ll be hooked. Who knows, you may even discover your long-forgotten Lebanese heritage.

The Pita Garden is located at 269 W. Cocoa Beach Cswy. (SR 520) in the White Rose Shopping Center nd is open Monday through Saturday from 11 to 9 p.m. and Sundays from 11 to 8p.m. Call 799-9933 to have your order ready when you arrive or for take out orders. The Raoudas also offer catering services with advance notice and can create large platters for groups, celebrations, and other events. Their healthy, authentic Lebanese food is a great alternative to other catered meals.